Thanks fellas. Yes I had an odd hunch about the nylon net jackets and so never tried them, despite their low cost. Good to have that hunch confirmed here. I've looked online everywhere for a cloth sack/sleeve for a 2pc 8'6" rod... no dice. Will now check my local sport store and then, that failing, head to the fabric store. The broad diameter PVC tube sounds like the way to go when campi
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Wondering what others use, and where you get it. Cloth sleeve? Hard case?
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I've signed a matte graphite blank with Testers Silver Metallic and a caligraphy pen. Came out really nice. Does this need a coat of epoxy over it, or will the Testers last? I'd rather not have this portion be glossy, but can live with it if necessary.
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Admittedly I am the last person to offer these. I'm starting this thread in hopes some of you veteran builders will drop in a bit of wisdom or two. That said, though I've only put together a few rods here's what I know: 1. That second cup of coffee really isn't such a great idea when finishing wraps. 2. Make very certain the rod is level when applying finish. 3. Finishing a build require
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Norm, That really fills in the blanks (ugh.. terrible pun, sorry) for me. Great stuff, thanks! Dan
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Norm, Would you share with me how you came to recommend those measurements for runner placement? Are you using a formula, or just sussing it out from experience? How do you know the first guide from the tip should be at only 3.5"? Many thanks, Dan
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Thank you Lynn!
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An informative and enjoyable video, thanks for posting.
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Cheers, Norm!
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Thank you Norm, Lynn, and Tom! I am so impressed with this forum. From the first paragraph of the Static Load tutorial, "Measure the distance from the tip guide to the last reduction guide, divide this number by 5 and add that many running guides PLUS 1 more to the rod, equal distances apart." That distance (tip to last reduction guide) is ~46". 46/5 + 1= 10 runners. 10 runne
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Finishing up a spin rod I started some time ago. I've located what I think are appropriate positions for the stripper and reduction train as per KR GPS and am left with the runners. Most sources say to rely on static testing to indicate where to place the runners, as well as presumably how many will be needed. For the neophyte such as myself however, I'm left wondering where to start? I gather
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Cheers Roger! The cutting wheel sounds like the ticket. How do you hide the cut edge if that edge is to be immediately adjacent to the reel seat? I used a decorative winding check on the previous rod at this juncture and it blended very nicely. However the grip in that case had not been cut and the woven edge of the graphite rolled down over the leading edge of the grip thereby covering its
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Norm, wow! Thanks so much. Very generous of you and very much appreciated. Dan
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Once again, thank you Norman (and Victor). The guides you specified are very similar to those I used on my previous (and very first) build. Norm, using the KR GPS I notice that when entering line choice I am limited to #8-10, and 10-14 mono. In other words, the software won't allow me to enter a lighter line. Think it makes a difference? Also, are the 'f' guides the same as the 'l' (low) gui
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I have a spare rear grip which would be useful to me if I can shorten it a bit. If I cut it, 1. What's the best tool to use for a clean cut, and 2. Once cut how do you clean up the cut end such that it doesn't appear cut?
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Just purchased a Rainshadow SP781-2. Intend to use as a small stream rod on trout here in rainy Oregon with a series 2000 reel and #4 or 6 mono with spinners and small spoons. It's a 6'6" 2pc RX6, #2-6, 1/16 - 1/4oz, butt 0.355, tip 4.5, L power, M action, 1.1oz blank. Recently put together a steelhead rod with Pac Bay Minima guides and I like how light they are. Would these be a good choic
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Thanks Spencer. I have no doubt that's a beauty, i just don't think I would trust myself with a blank that dear. Looking for something less than a Benjamin.. Dan
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Spencer, That might work, yes. I forgot to mention, #4 - 6 mono. Roger, Thanks, I've looked at those. Hoping for a little more length. Thanks fellas, Dan
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Looking for a 2 piece blank in the ~6'10" to 7'2" length range for casting spinners ( 1/4 - 1/3oz) to trout. Hoping for fast action and light/medium power for use with #4-6 mono. Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
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Thanks very much all. I'm relieved to see that my intuition luckily put me in the right ballpark. I fixed the rear grip length such that the butt cap touches the thicker part of my fore arm. Was curious how much the length of the rear grip, and hence the placement of the reel seat, affected the balance of the finished rod.
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How do you builders decide on rear grip length?
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Thank you Norman
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When reaming out the grip to fit the blank will the ends unravel/tatter?
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Valuable insight again, thank you.
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Curious what the advantages are of graphite handles, other than that the look is radically different. Price seems comparable. Do they generally weigh less? Are they as comfortable? As long lasting?
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Thanks very much, fellas! Roger, I will certainly try your system re reeling in line under tension to note the interaction with the butt guide. Thanks for the tip as well as for your suggestions re the build. Norm, When you specify "M" guides may I assume you are indicating Minima guides? What, in your impression, are the advantages of Minima guides to the other Pac Bay Match guid
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"Hello. My name is Dan Scollard and I fish for trout and steelhead." (Sits down quietly) This build, my first, will be to target river trout and steelhead with spinners (some quite small) and spoons (1/3 - 2/3oz). I use #4 - #8 mono and I like a small reel. Current favorite is an old Mitchell 308A I've owned for over 30 years. I'm sure there are better/more modern reels... I'm also
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