Bill, Curtis, and Mike THANKS for your valuable comments. I want to share with you a response that I received from Captain Cary Hanna who kindly provided his inputs and allowed me to post them on this board. As I receive more valuable inputs, I will post them under this thread. "Hello Ricardo, The rod sounds about perfect. I would use aftco roller guides and go with the bigger
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Fellow rod builders, I request advise from the collective experience of the board members. Disclaimers: I did a search in the forum bank of data for swordfish (all dates) read through all and did not find straight answers to the questions below. I searched in other Saltwater Fishing forums (SFF), with some luck, but from the fishermen point of view. I personally don't have any experienc
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Recently, I purchased a piece of graphite cloth (GC) for a 'just in case' situation where I might need it. Last night, during the ferrule assembly process of an IGFA 30# rod, and after I had built the two bushings made of 1/4 inch making tape (around 9 turns around the blank on each), I decided to fill the gap between the bushings with the GC, before the 'rodbonding' final step. For this,
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Brad, I am working on 30# IGFA rod I pushed a hosel down against the tapered hypalon fore grip I completed a ramp (taper) up the hosel, with size 'E' thread I covered with Teflon the start and end points of the ramp (up on the grip and down on the blank), to keep these areas clean and neat Mixed a batch of 5 minute epoxy, put un a latex glove with a snug fit, and filled the spaces between
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How about the radio and PBS as a means of reaching farther ?
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Last night I took a Batson 80# class curved butt and affixed it to the ferrule previously installed at the end of one of my 80# class demo rods. No matter how hard I adjusted the ferrule's collect nut by hand, the rod did not mate solidly with the butt, and play was felt between the two pieces. Looking at the mating components a bit closer, I concluded that notched steel plate inserted inside
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I have to report the same observation as Michael, no matter how tight I turned the C-Nut it never made a solid joint with the curved butts, in both the smaller up to 50# and the larger 50#+ models. I have not experimented this problem with Pac Bay and Aftco. I have'nt notified Bill Batson about this yet.
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Rob I do the same as Tim Bro, its a little bit more of work but worth it, for me. I am considering buying rubber bands used for orthodontics, and experiment substituting the faux-wrap with rubber bands. For me, the most annoying part of the guide placement process is cleaning the masking tape residue after the static deflection.
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A Goggle search of true-oil components shows the presence of components that don't get well with the rod finish epoxies. I am not sure about the proportions, but with my little understanding, even the slightest hint of oil on a surface where you plan to apply rodbuiliding finish epoxy will lead to unwanted results. 2. COMPOSITION / INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS DESCRIPTION CAS NUMBER WEIGHT PER
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Thanks to all for your comments. Ricardo.
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Just got my NTT, I removed one of the spindles on the thread carriage of my PacBay power wrapper and installed it. At full magnet resistance the thread comes out with noticeable tension. QUESTION : IS IT ENOUGH TENSION FOR WRAPPING GUIDES ON THE LARGER SALTWATER RODS ? Thanks.
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Jim and all: I would like to add a few comments shared before with John Mantele regarding the subject. I wrote to John Mantele a few week ago, related to a comment he made in this forum earlier, and asked him about the subject , MY QUESTION TO JOHN MANTELE JOHN: Below is an excerpt from a RESPONSE you recently posted under Re: 7' Seeker Black Steel 50# "Hey Harold! Like I
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Popsicle sticks are porous, thus release air as they suck up the mix in the stirring process, use a cured/sealed popsicle stick .
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TO ALL: Thanks again for helping out. The advises, comments and collective knowledge that pours into this forum are the best lessons/tools any rod builder can wish to have, I feel fortunate and well guided. SPECIAL THANKS TO TOM FOR PUTTING TOGETHER, KEEPING, AND IMPROVING THIS BLESSED SITE. Best regards, Ricardo Font PUERTO RICO RODS
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Bill, Thanks, I will try the TV light tip. Tom, I am a follower ! I tried to open the BE Link on the sponsors column but could not get through. I tried Google www.angelfire.com/ks/bingham/ is this the link ? I still have problems getting through my office desktop If it is a different URL please provide it, otherwise I will try tonight from home. Once More Thanks
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To all ! Thanks for your reply. Best Regards, Ricardo Font
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Guys thanks for taking the time to help me understand what happened here. Below is my recollection of events and scenarios, and learning's from your comments. This is the first time that I use SS wire guides that are not welded. These are made of SS wire bent and turned into a three hair coil, and the ends (feet) bent so they "kind of align" with the blank axis, although they did
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Please advise if you know of any sponsors in this area I know that Angler's WS is in Woodland, WA., but I am looking for one in Renton. My brother is flying down to PR from this area, and has asked me if I need anything..... Thanks in advance Ricardo Font
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I want to share this experience with all: After having built several 50 and 80# rods during this summer, I switched to building an 8-12 spinning rod. Yes; the same one I have been asking this forum for different inputs recently. The set-up was ready for the guide-wrapping task, which I started at the butt, well prepared, double foot size 50 wire guide... ...first foot done using size A
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Guys, Thanks for taking the time to respond. I was out for a couple of days and could not respond to your questions quicker. The space between guides is ample, weight is not a consideration (although I am aware about the added weight with the marble technique) since the rod will be used from a boat and jigged pivoting on a hip pad instead of using pure wrist load. I like Randy's suggestions
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