I am going to be using a small reel for now, but I might want to upgrade later on. It has a 47 mm diameter and I am using braid on it.
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In comparing braid to mono you have to specify what brands of braid and what brand of mono. Breaking strength of each vary a lot depending of who makes them. I have used 10# Power pro braid with 10# Maxima UG as a top shot. They are both about the same strength as far as steady pull. If you were to measure the strength they both would probably break at about 14# of force. Braid will cut you a lot
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When using braid as a main line there is no need to do a Bill Dance kind of hook set. What I do is reel in slowly until the rod tip loads up then lift the rod up firmly. That is enough to penetrate the tough bone plates (Using thin wire hooks) at the top of the jaw. And this is with the trout rods that I use. When you are finessing for bass it is very likely that it will be on light line and
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Thanks Tom. Is there a place where I can find the guide height measurements without having to purchase a whole set of guides?
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Great! Just what I was looking for. Thanks a lot guys!
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I catch large mouth bass with braid and light top shot mono (6#-8#) 100% of the time. I am a light tackle nut. Hahaha! . I have found that a fast/extra fast blank tends to snap the mono on the hook set if you are not careful. I use a medium light trout rod instead. The slow taper will be much more forgiving. I use a Daiwa SS 1300 for the casting distance and smooth drag. JMHO.
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#6-#8 mono or fluoro top shot?
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Thanks for the response Bill. I see that others have used the single footed one on a surf rod. But I still would like to know if I could mix match the two.
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I am trying to build a light surf rod for casting lures up to 2 oz. It will be a spinning 9' Lamiglass GSB108-1L blank. I have a couple of questions on what type of guides I should use. Do I really need double footed guides for this rod? I was hoping to make this as light as possible so I wanted to put on single footed concept guides. But these only went up to size 30 rings. If I could get
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I always wondered why nobody here uses a drill to ream cork. I have build 3 rods using this method and it's much faster than reaming by hand and much cheaper that your standard reamer. What I did was to cut a broken old blank (choose a rod blank that is small enough that when wrapped with the sandpaper will fit into the hole of the cork handle) into size and made sure that the big end would fi
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Fred Yarmolowicz, Instead of using a spray, I suggest that you buy an Ionizer. Electronic manufacturing suppliers sell them. The Ionizer will neutralize the static electricity easily.
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Jay L, I meant the Rubber rings to be used as retainers for the ceramic ring. I have finished wrapping my rod and retested it under load. I found that I couldn’t use this approach at all. The area that I have to cover is about 6" and there is no way I can cover that much area with 2 rings. So I went to plan B (Eliminate the bumper guide entirely). That is to offset the first and sec
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Jay Lancaster, You would have to make a couple of fairly big mounds of tread. When those tread soaks up the coating, it will become very stiff. I don't know if that will work. But I would prefer Eva, then cork. I am using cork because I have it. But there is a third choice and that is rubber ring gaskets. 2 rubber rings and a wrapping and coating on each side of the rings should hold them in p
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Thank you for your kind offer. If the titanium idea does not pan out, I will take you up on the offer. I did not want to glue the metal to the rod to allow for sideway expansion. If I am going to bond the metal to something it will be to the cork insert. And I want you to know that you guys really help me visualize some of the details I would have never thought of on my own. Thank you very much.
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Mark Gibson, Yes I think I did. It will take me a while to build the rod up before I can test it. (Manual wrapping). But I will keep your Teflon alternative in mind. This is what I have in mind: 1 Make a cork insert to allow for expansion and contraction of the rod. This cork is going to be coated and bonded with Flex Coat to the rod. 2 A groove on the cork insert will retain the titanium
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I think I might have found the metal to use. My old titanium glass frames. Heating the titaniun up make is easy to bend. I will post the results from this experiment.
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Cliff Hall, My original idea was to use ceramic, but after talking to the floks here I realized that the shape and grain of the outer edge was a problem and I have no way to reshape it myself. I agree with you that it is the main problem here. I do have a jeweler that could do this for me, but it will cost me more than I am willing to spend for an experiment. But if I were into manufacturing the
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Mark Gibson, Who is the source of the Teflon tubing you are using. I would like to try this out. It would be nice if I could find a hard material ring to use but I will use what is available while I find this material. I read the discussion on the link you posted and it appears that Bob Leab had good results using a hard surface when he tried it. The solution that I have for the compression o
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I think Teflon is a good choice if you don't mind the wear and tear on it. After fighting a few big fish you may start seeing grooves on the material. But I have reflected on David A. Smith's tungsten wire approach, and I think instead of making a rail just make a coil with the wire and fit the coil on the rod. Since the wire is flexible it will give when the rod expands. To hold it in place, jus
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David A. Smith Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All; > If what you are trying to do is to keep the line > off the blank why use a ring? > Couldn't you just use a piece of the wire used for > the snake guide flattened > out and then just wrap the original feet to hold > it to the rod? Or take a piece of > tungsten stock about .020
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Tom Kirkman wrote: Date: December 26, 2005 07:50PM If you are attempting to slide the rings over the blank, the blank is going to break where the rings reside. Don't do it. Scott is dead on the money about what's going to happen. But it is an obvious solution if something else could be affixed to the blank without restricting it in any way. More than 1 bumper would never be needed - ther
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Scott and all, Thank you for all your responses. That is exactly what I wanted to find you from you guys. And Scott has the right idea of what I was talking about. I did think of the space or give for the ceramic ring. I was going to do a rap to fit under the ring. But now I have a better idea. using a thin piece of cork to shim under the ceramic ring then coat it with flex coat. However, I di
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Mike, The advantage that I see is less weight and the line is totally free. No ring around it in that location when casting.
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I am building my 3rd spiral wrap rod and this time I am going to introduce something new. Since this rod will have a flexible fly blank (Cascade RX8 9010) it may need more than 1 bumper. I am trying to make a gradual transition. So my idea is to get 2 guides and remove the ceramic from the metal. Then I will insert it on the blank and glue it in place. I might have to do a rap under the ceramic f
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I am not a professional builder, but I do cast a lot using similar weight lures. It seems to me that you are using a blank with too heavy of an action to cast a 3/8 oz lure very far. For starters, if you want to cast a small lure like that a mile away, you would use the low end of the line weight. Most likely 10 or 12 lb test. And since it's a spinning rod, you would really want the 10 lb test to
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May be this is what you are looking for?
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Look under Salmon and Steelhead blanks
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I am no pro at this, but to put things in perspective, it is obvious that nothing in the blank, cp, and / or the thread can cause what I have seen in that picture of yours. It must be some sort of contamination that you were not aware of. It has to be something soluble in the solvent of the cp you are using and it has to be localized in that one spot (i.e. a permanent marker??) Jaime
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