bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can also replace it with a graphite tube or > smooth butt > As you have found out cork is not the best thing > for rod holders > Maybe a composite cork I believe l will try the composite cork first , wrapping the rod with thread, to fill the gap and then epoxy them on individually. Out of
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When removing a rod from a downrigger rod holder, there is a tendency for the corks on the butt end of the grip to drag over the edge of the rod holder with the subsequent removal of chunks of cork. I thought l'd replace the damaged ones up to the reel seat, but want to do it correctly. Do l ream out all the forks to the diameter of the last one and use thread, tape or?? to fill the gap for the o
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Oh yes, l have saved all the old pieces such as they are, l was considering putting them in a box picture frame as a trophy :). I see nothing on Schneiders web site that looks like these old ones, but l will get in touch with him next week with pictures, measurements etc. As l would like to replace it with what was there. I think this must have been a custom rod as the ferrule was not in the ce
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Once l realised that there was no fiberglass section present for about 2" of the lower section of the ferrule and now being able to comprehend what Chuck McIntyre wrote, ( thank you Chuck ), l used a dremel and cut through the upper section of the female portion of the ferrule and just into the stuck male portion. Prising the cut section apart, enabled a very easy removal of the stuck porti
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After leaving it soak overnight, l put the broken piece that was left of the male piece of the ferrule and clamped it in a vice and really pulled, unfortunately to no avail. I cleaned out all the corrosion in the male section and drilled a hole through the stuck spigot, all two inches of solid aluminium. I can now see down the centre of the blank to the butt cap. I am now considering two options.
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Picked up an old Fenwick rod at the local pawnshop today. I think the owner was anxious to get it out of the shop as it was a two piece that has become a one piece due to a stuck ferrule. Thus far l have removed all the guides, and tip top and the rod looks in good condition. Salt water had got under the aluminium ferrule on the top section and split it. I have removed the top section of the rod
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A few years ago l bought a couple of graphite rods specifically designed for trolling plugs without using a downrigger in salt water. I have since found out that the guides are not designed for salt water use (turning green with some corrosion), and in the process of replacing them. After strippin all the guides off the first rod, l found an obvious break under an area where one of the guide feet
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I do as others above have suggested, cut the thread, and peal off as much as l can, but then l do something different. Perhaps, because at my age my hand trembles a little bit, l don't trust myself with a sharp blade. Instead l use a heat gun, an old credit card, and alcohol on a cloth. After getting all of the thread off, l heat up the remaing epoxy, one section at a time, until it just turns so
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Eric MONTACLAIR Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When I put dots it's one coat finish, then the dot > and another coat of finish (otherwhise the ink can > blend in the thread). I did a dry run, wrapped a dowel, and put adrop of paint on it, within 10 seconds, an 1/16th circle turned into a 3/16th line. I'll put a lite coat of finish on it and then
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That sounds like the way to go. One more question. Do you mark the wrap before the first coat of finish, or should l wait until the first coat is dry and then paint on the finish before the second coat?
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Tony Childs Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I build a bunch of downrigger rods. There is > absolutely zero difference in which side you place > the transition. Great, l won't concern myself with that aspect then. How about when you put the top section into the butt section, l want her to get it lined up properly when putting it together. How do
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Yes it will be a level wind, last thing l want is to have one of my grandkids turned off fishing because of bleeding knuckles from a knuckle buster. Single action reels will come later.
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I am building a two piece downrigger rod for my six year old granddaughter to use on her fathers boat. Two questions. I am using a spiral wrap for the eyes and have read that when using a downrigger they are side dependant, and the spiral should always be on the side that faces the stern. That is for the port side, the spiral would be ccw and for use on the starboard side the should be cw. Any pe
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If you are using it on bottom fish, cod, hali etc. where there is a chance that you may snag a piece of the earth, then use a short piece of flouro, of lower strength then your mainline, five feet is more then enough. If you are trolling with it on a downrigger, have at least twenty feet or whatever your setback is. Many of the release clips do not hold well on braid and will release premature
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Jeeze, l never even thought of that (using the old sections). My neighbour suggested that l take the good section into a paint store where they have a way of matching the colour with an analyzer, l don't know how accurate it would turn out, but l would have enough left over to paint some of my fence. I may have to paint the rod all one colour, a 1010 is quite flexable so l believe the paint woul
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I have acquired two older Hardy 1010 rods. One has a good butt section but a broken tip section, while the other has a broken butt section and a good tip. My plan is to make one of the two. The only problem is that the two blanks are of slightly different colours, the tip is considerably lighter then the butt section. I would like the colour to match, so probably have to darken the tip. How do l
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