Dremel best option imho but if you don't have one and don't want to buy one there is another option off the wall. If you have a archery shop close buy ask them to use their high speed arrow saw to cut it. Should not cost much if any thing at all, works great like a Dremel.
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Thanks Terry you have been a big help, I will see if I can find that rod at store. I actually tore a rod down just for practice so that would be fine for me, I am just picky lol. Exactly Herb, can not stand when they bend that bad. I took your guys suggestion and expanded my search to the light action as well, inquired with a couple companies on their blanks. I have the St Croix SC3 MLXF whi
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Terry Kirk Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > William, i think you will be disappointed in > casting distance with either blank if you are > using 1/32 and 1/80 true weights. If you are > using a ball or pencil type strike indicator you > might get the distance you want. I use no less > than 1/16 oz feather jigs or 1/16 oz ball head > j
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I just want to say thank you very much for everyone's input and experience, it is very much appreciated. I am a DIYer and only have a couple builds under my belt so I rely and learn from the knowledge of you masters here. Terry when you said the Rainshadow had more power, am I correct in thinking that it will handle the 1/16-1/8 oz better then the MHX and the MHX will handle the lighter 1/80-
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Hey guys, I am looking at the Rainshadow REVS68UL and the MHX 781 UL and looking for any feedback you might have with these 2 blanks. I am thinking about making a UL Fast action Trout/Panfish rod. It will be used for small spring/trout streams to small lakes for panfish, 1/64 to 1/16 oz jigs and 1/32 - 1/8 oz rooster tail spinners and crankbaits with either 1# braid or 4# mono. I also use smal
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Michael thank you very that is very kind of you. I have read your link couple times so far, definitely considering this option and going to research it some more. David I appreciate you sharing your experience, that is very helpful. I don't mind "novels" at all my friend, the more input you get the more you learn, we have 2 eyes, 2 ears and 1 mouth for a reason. Honestly dust nev
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lol sorry Michael I type so slow you got a second post in before I got one. I am going to pick up some more rods before I make a decision on the handle, going back and forth in my mind to much. Think trying to make my own CF grip is biting off more then what is needed at this time and cork will be just fine like you stated. Curious what kind of foam did you use with the ramps you did there? Thank
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Hi Michael thank you for the insightful input and let me say that is very beautiful work. That pheasant grip is an absolute work of art. Yes I am looking for light and sensitive, feel is everything with this type fishing. I have to tell the difference between a rock, mud, sand and fish, where the drop happens to let the jig fall, did I pick up a leaf or did a smallmouth just mouth it, there is
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I just want to thank you all for checking my thoughts on this, the great words of wisdom and the encouragement, it is very much appreciated. Going to reread your post couple more times. Joe, man thanks a lot that is very helpful and I never considered wrapping in the reel on a TN handle like that, always used black tape lol. Tying it in would not only look better but be more stable, will have
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Hello everyone, been reading many post on here and going try my first build. I fish a mid size river for walleye and smallmouth, I am usually pitching 1/16 th - 1/4 oz jigs working them along the bottom in the current. Feel is very important to say the least. I currently been fishing a 6' Fenwick ML action MF power. I wanted something little longer and little faster action so I bought a St C
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