I called and it seems they are back on schedule. Always great to deal with.
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I placed an order on the 20th of February and still don't have the complete order. Got an email saying they were switching inventory tracking methods or something to that effect. I was going to place an order this morning, still have it in my cart actually, but I can't wait another month for it.
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Yes thanks for the tips. Going to try it. How often do you rotate 180?
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I cannot get a really good first coat with Flex Coat high build. I like two or even three thin coats.
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Donald R Campbell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am not sure about the flex coat lite; but, I > just finished a rod today using Threadmaster and > rotated it 1 1/2 hours and it came out > beautiful....clear as glass. I just started doing > the 180 degree rotation after being totally > frustrated with varied degrees of finish using my
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I use either a Butane Micro torch or a Propane torch. Again, no direct heat. I actually put my hand behind whatever epoxy I want to apply heat to so I can get an idea of temp. So it is either a waving action or I'll aim the flame under the epoxy and let the heat rise to it.
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I thinned my FlexCoat on my first few builds. On my more recent builds I haven't. I can find no advantage to thinning other than a little longer working time. But that also means longer time before recoat.
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I use the self sealing caps and just leave the syringes stuck in the cap.
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I just finished a rod this week and I already see stuff that I could improve on. Which in turn makes me start thinking about unwrapping it lol
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Also my understanding is that pen reels do not > have much of a tilt of the reel toward the blank ( > if at all ) which makes it harder to use smaller > guides > I would try to find one that does I like Shimano Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Y
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You might try setting the reducers up using the > TOP of the guide frame. If you happen to be > setting up now with the line running through the > center of the ring sometimes you can go as far as > the top of the frame and not affect performance > much. That should move the 30 (and all other >
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No reason for it to. > > ............. Ok. So leave the choke point and I can experiment around with different reduction trains as long as they bullseye correctly with the choke guide?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 26 inches is a bit far out, but not completely out > of the question. You might pull it in to about 23 > inches and reset the rest of the guides between > there and the choker and test cast. > > .................... Ok. So it seems like I can move that stripper around a bit, as long as I ke
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Russ, That is how I accomplished it. I tied off the line to the reel shaft and looped it over the choker before taping it off to the reel. I don't think the 30 was that out of the question, though I do feel like a 25 would be better, and closer to half the reel diameter. I did seem to think the 30 at 26 inches was a bit far. It is 20 lb PowerPro, so the diameter is equal to 6 lb mon
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Thanks Tom ... Guides are Fuji CYAGs .... The distance from spool face to stripper was more of a concern for me, especially given the use of a size 30.
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Gents, I'm rewrapping a 6'6 St Croix, fitted with a Penn Conflict 3000. 20 lb braid. Guides are CYAGs to 6L runners. Using x27, with the 4.8 centimeter, or 48 mm spool diameter, the choke guide was place at 129.6cm. This seemed pretty far out to me and left only enough room for two more running guides between the choker and the tip. EDIT: Found an article here in which Tom himself says th
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For Micro guides, I think the guide foot adhesive from Flex Coat works the best for keeping them in place when you are ready to wrap. For spacing and bullseyeing etc small dental rubber bands are nice. The kind they use on braces. But you can't test cast with them. I would also be ok with using them to hold a little bigger guides in place prior to wrapping.
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The quality blanks of today vary hardly at all > from one blank to the other. Manufacturers of > quality blanks best know the ideal guide placement > for their blanks; they must if theirs are quality > blanks. They will share this information. Do > different makes and models of guides require
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Here is another vote for self sealing syringe caps and syringes. Absolute no brainer in my opinion. I not only use them for any two part epoxy. Flex Coat, Loctite 5 min, DevCon 2 ton etc ... Clean, easy, accurate.
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I just tested it with a SP minnow and the current layout ( another benefit of working at a golf course lol ). Not real scientific, but I casted two directions three times to account for the wind and any slope. Paced it off and got distances of: 70 63 65 63 70 69 It feels really nice casting. What a huge change in the feeling and characteristics of the rod. The rod feels like
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I laid out the first 5 guides ... Starting at the reel: 17.5 inches ( 450 mm ) to 20H, 9.75 inches ( 248 mm ) to 10H, 6.75 inches ( 171.5 mm ) to 7M, 4.25 inches ( 108 mm ) to 5.5L, 4.5 inches ( 114.5 mm ) to 4.5B than 4.3 inches for the rest of the runners to the tip ... Reduction train bulleyes perfectly, than I moved the 4.5B out a bit so the lower ring matches the top ring of the 5.5L .
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