i have a few nearly empty bottles of roddancer optimum flow 45min, and a few nearly empty bottles of the slow cure version. question is: can i pour all the resin into one bottle, and all the hardener into another, and continue to use with no issue? (just a "new" cure rate) (seems so obvious that there;s bound to be a reason why i cant!) cheers, marty
Forum: rodboard

Adam Lathrop Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What is a grey version? A non-official product.
Forum: rodboard

I've been speaking to the UK distributor about these for ages Jim. If you go ahead with this put me down for a trade sized order. (And i would like the hoods color matched!) (i believe that Fuji themselves will not produce these, and the Matagi versions are "grey" versions)
Forum: rodboard

cheers tom, using a white blank so got my heart set on using a very light lime green, but cant get it in ncp. will i need multiple thin coats of CP to get the best result possible? i was going to paint the feet white with acrylic, but suspect it'll may flake off?
Forum: rodboard

how to stop show through? paint feet white or will CP do the job? any tricks i'm missing? cheers marty
Forum: rodboard

bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What about decal clear paper Then put it on just > like a decal Assuming the decal paper will take a paint or ink then that could be the answer Bill ! (cheers mate, i'll get testing)
Forum: rodboard

Some great info there lads, many thanks. You've got me thinking that painting with acrylic will be a lot easier, but can it go straight on top of the factory laquer ? or does it need some sort of primer/accelerator to make sure it "grabs"? The images will wrap around the blank, so its gonna take a very long time regardless. I'm now thinking it might be better to put all the artwo
Forum: rodboard

drawn/painted pictures on a rod blank using pigmented epoxy? (sort of like marbling but on a different level!) assuming the artist is good enough and quick enough, (and the brush fine enough!) is there any reason (that i cant see at the moment) why it cant be done? I'd just have a bash but the white blank i have is very sentimental and i need to be confident before i start... cheers, Ma
Forum: rodboard

Pretty much an aesthetic thing Tom, although you do want to keep the rod as light as possible if your after ultimate casting performance. No reason why you couldn't embellish them with thread art or highly coloured eva etc, - fact is that a lot of UK and European anglers like a clean minimalist "hi-tech" look to their carp rod..
Forum: rodboard

Tom aside from casting long distances there is another reason why we use heavy weights for carp fishing. Carp feed in a "suck + blow" manner (rather than biting) and often the most efficient way to hook them efficiently is to employ a "shock" rig, using a short hooklength and the bait mounted on a "hair" that suspends from the bend of the hook. (This wont make sen
Forum: rodboard

Tom i'm over in the UK and a large number of my builds are carp rods. The ringing patterns and sizes used are suited to powerful rods and large reels - in escence almost surf rods for freshwater. Our blanks over here are rated in test curves (rather than casting weight) which is the amount of weight required to deflect the tip by 90 degrees. Typical test curves for carp rods are between 2.
Forum: rodboard

Hi Dave, drop me an email and i'll send you my telephone number. I'm in the UK and can probably help you out. best, Marty
Forum: rodboard

cut the handle fittings off, then remove reel seat and rebuild from the butt end. Much simpler, quicker and cheaper than going from the other end! you will need to ensure your handle fitting (be it cork or eva) has a parallel bore large enough to just slide on from the butt end, and run arbors as you go up the blank to ensure a nice tightish fit.
Forum: rodboard

If you get stuck dennis then drop me an email and i'll send you some over.
Forum: rodboard

Very nice Roger, i was thinking about doing the same sort of thing on my Alps head. Is the Alps foot pedal electonic or anologue?
Forum: rodboard

Herb i've sent you an email. best, Marty
Forum: rodboard

I happily build on blanks that are slightly out of true (straight), but personally i wouldn't use a blank that was noticeably out of round. Unless the mandrel is also out of round there has been a defect during production, and i'd question the quality control of any supplier using suspect mandrels!
Forum: rodboard

A single coat of U-40 is all you need. A light scrub with mild detergent, rinse, dry and a re-coat when it starts looking dirty will keep it looking good for a long time.
Forum: rodboard

I have a customer who has asked me to build an UL drop shot rod suitable for 1-5 grams, and 2 piece 7-8ft long ! cant find a blank that meets these requirements, can anybody help? cheers, marty
Forum: rodboard

I always struggle to take decent pics of my rod builds - closeups are fine but i just cant get a decent pic of the whole rod. Do i need a wide angle lens or is there a trick or two to decent pics? Any tips gladly received! cheers marty
Forum: rodboard

Roger i'm sure it works for you, but ive tried your method and its not for me. The amount of heat required to soften fully-cured 2- ton epoxy just aint good right next to a resin cured carbon blank. i prefer the long and laborious road.
Forum: rodboard

i keep every single bloody guide, got hundreds sat there in a box.... i know i dont need them but i just cant help myself. i'm the same with jiffy bags, cardboard boxes and lots of other things. "might need that some day" syndrome.
Forum: rodboard

I build a small range of rods for an online shop, it works well for me as its bread and butter work for me, free advertising for my operation and as i only build to one spec for them it doesn't affect my custom build work. As far as i'm concerned its a another "shop window" for my operation and a source of custom that i probably wouldn't get. (there's a lot of customers out there t
Forum: rodboard

Then comes the fun bit removing the arbors and glue...... !!!! (if its a quality build)
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for clearing it up Jim. Basically the LOK/AN is designed to be used with the tvs/pts screw hoods. I was hoping it was a LOG1R built into a sleeve. Never mind, will tell my customer he can have a hidden thread without a lock nut, or a lock nut but exposed thread
Forum: rodboard

Thats the big question - will the collar on the new LOK 16/AN and LOK 17/AN fit the standard (dps type) fuji hoods, or just the tvs/pts hood? My Fuji supplier can get them, but i dont want to find they are tvs/pts reel seat specific!
Forum: rodboard

Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Part # LOK/AN is a variation of the new BACK > STOP™ Lock Nut system that is made as a thread > cover. It includes a newly designed graphite/nylon > hood so the KDPS will be of no use if you go this > way. It is primarily designed for new PTS and TVS > seats, but it should work in other application
Forum: rodboard

bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Maybe this will work > they are the lock nuts i have Bill, but i cant think of as way to incorporate it with a fuji kdps hood to hide the threaded bit of the reel seat!
Forum: rodboard

I'm using the Fuji KDPS hood on a new build, and wondered if anyone has ever managed to use a Fuji lock nut in conjunction with it? The rod is a heavy spin, and my customer has specifically requested the above, as he's had issues with the KDPS hood slackening off after prolonged use. Ive scratched my head almost all afternoon trying to formulate a way to do it, but i just cant fathom a way
Forum: rodboard

Jim i'm no expert on big game rods but i've been building for a long time and am also in the UK - so if you need any help etc just drop me a message.
Forum: rodboard