Just a FYI I had two containers of tm cp shipped to the shop last week. They arrived in some of the below zero weather we have been having. They were hard as a rock and thick jell.. Now the distributor was very fast with a replacement and the new ones were liquid and right as rain. Just a cautionary note don't let water based cp freeze.
Forum: rodboard

Mike I would contact Renzetti. I have one of there foot pedals and it works like a charm. Its fully adjustable and can be set to work with the slightest touch. You don't need a reverse option and ac makes no sense. Just my two cents but I love mine.
Forum: rodboard

Mike it is really worth it to invest in a single unit flex coat. I still have the one I bought 20 years ago and use it more then my five rod pro dryer. It did need a new motor 5 or 6 years ago and I have replaced the diphram once also. I keep an extra motor on hand just incase but the thing is really a bull. It will hold some pretty big butts and in fact I cannot think of an instance where I coul
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Orlando to oviado is not next door. I lived in florida for years. Depending where you are in Orlando and the time of day you could take over an hour to get there. That said it is a cool place to visit. They do have items if you look hard that are great deals too.
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Thanks Tom. I love the concept of the one part of rod building that takes me way too much time.
Forum: rodboard

Does anyone know if Lynn Williams ever went forward with his guide alignment tool. I think he was calling it the Taperline. I have wanted one since first seeing it at the show a few years ago and cannot find it. If anyone knows anything please help me get one.
Forum: rodboard

Jay is right that's old school. I also used to scratch the finish with scotchbrite on the underwrap it seem to help a little with getting the guide wrap to stay where you put it. It is however a skill that takes some time to master. Once you get some practice in with it you will be all the better even at any thread work. Keep practicing it and don't be afraid to tear and redo as its one area that
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I am a long time buyer at both merrick and mudhole. I moved from Florida to the northeast and do find a slow down in the receiving of my mudhole orders so was a merrick customer. My new business in the north is much bigger then in florida and the demand for product and turn around is much faster. I also miss certain items mudhole does not carry that merrick did. I also don't like the shipping cha
Forum: rodboard

Theres a number of components that cannot be sourced now.
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does anyone know if Lynn ever produced the center line marker he started? I saw one in photo gallery as well as at the show one year. I have wanted one since waiting for them to come out..
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Hey everyone, I have a guy that came into my shop looking to get back into the sport he loved so much. He is a relatively young stroke victim with complete paralysis to his left side. Has anyone had experience building a rod for a customer with this type of issue? He is primarily fresh water for trout and bass. He has never used a bait casting reel in his life, nor a fly rod. Casting, reeling, ho
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Please just don't represent it as a st. Croix or any other name just to name it. Especially if selling. That move has given us a bad name over the years as well as being unethical. Not that you would just saying. You can't name it yourself with a manufacturer.
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Good reason to move!! lol That's how much I love my rm.
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The salt water series uses Fuji alum. oxide. So does the fresh water.
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I do the same pretty much as ron does just will pick up the tip of the rod after all finish is on just for a minute. It lets gravity work into that tunnel a little bit.
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Larry I use a dermal with masking tape. Wrap it tight with the tape to prevent chipping and make a round line with a pen. Then I use the cut off wheel on high speed. I found I can lay the seat flat on a surface and just roll it. Works for me.
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No its is not boron. It is a solid piece of rod that was in the tip section of the blank. Its steel. I really do believe its part of the mandrel. I have boron rods and they great. But boron is in the scrim right Tom? I cant imagine it is a solid metal rod inside the tip. All that would do is create a weak spot at the end to break. And that's exactly where it broke.
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Don't actually know could have been the design it's a HMG. Poor design if It was as its exactly where it broke?
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interesting thing happened at the shop. First time in my rod building career. A guy brought in a old fenwick which broke about 10 inches from the tip. He wanted it repaired and had all 3 pieces. Interestingly he also had a thin rod he said was in the middle of the tip. I figured the guy just had it laying next to the rod so he thought it was with it. Well on my way home it came to me. It was part
Forum: rodboard