I do like Roger does and have not experienced any problems. Yes I do wrap in front of the winding check so at that point it is not going anywhere either way. I could see more issues with a rubber winding check which I only use on really inexpensive blanks. The advise came from some one who seems to think he is the for most authority on rod building. Thanks for the input.
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I have always used a tiny drop or two of epoxy or similar to keep the winding check in place. Another builder recommended not gluing them in place to allow for expansion/contraction. Also any difference if using NS, aluminum or rubber? I primarily build fly rods with some spey and switch rods thrown in.
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My first question would be what is he fishing for? Trout or Steelhead? I line in the PNW and fish for both. Rainshadow line weight is different than almost all other mfg., they are in single hand weights. I built a 5wt and did not realize the size difference and it is a true 5wt single hand rod. If I would have cast them I would have built a 6wt and my intended purpose is for trout (the 5wt is li
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Thanks for the info. The purple mud hole blanks look great, but need 2 piece. Not sure what I am going to do. Hard to beat a combo already built for the price? Maybe the way to go as I am building her a nice fly rod.
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I only fish with fly or spey rods and my rod building experience is with fly rods as well. We lost my daughters ugly stick with a closed face reel. I am looking suggestions for a two or three piece blank, handle kit and guides. I am looking for value priced items as she does not use it that much.
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Debating on commenting on this topic. I am surprised that you have seen very much negative information on rod building suppliers. The only issue that has been discussed recently has been shipping costs. I get frustrated with them on small orders but understand them. I have ordered from a several suppliers and have only received great service. The one issued that is frustrating is having an ite
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I really struggled with this starting out as well. I agree with Fred. On the longer area I have started applying finish length wise, no around the blank. I coat this area first then the rest of the rod and as Fred suggests stop the rod and let everything sag, rotate a couple of times. Then turn on the dryer as normal and let dry. You might notice that it will help get a better (less) finish on th
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No kidding. I have been using it on my last few rods. I made a mistake on a lower grip and I will have to cut it off. I have tried everything and it will not come off. Nice to know that it will last for a long time.
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You can try to sand the area, I have. As Tom mentioned DO NOT get to aggressive or you will get in to the threads. Speaking from experience. As far as the finish, I ham a hobby builder and have struggled with this as well. As Tom said there is to much finish. I would put on, it seemed like, not very much and still get uneven finish. There are two things that helped a lot. First I put the fini
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Victor Heal Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lay the feather upside down on a piece of paper. > LIGHTLY spray with workable fixative. Stick on rod > blank....repeat as necessary. When you have them > all on hit it with Cp. Let dry and finish. If you > want to use duck feathers or any other feathers > that may be a little oily then spray wit
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I did quite a bit of research before I tried for the first time. What I have come up with and what has worked is; - pick your feathers - lay them out and get the configuration you desire - dip in DNA and let dry - this will help remove any oils in the feathers to prevent problems with epoxy - necessary, not sure sine I have only done it that way - you may loose some color with dyed feathers -
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I would not go larger than a 12 even on an 8wt fly rod. If you tape a 16 on that rod it will look like a silver dollar hanging off the rod. For larger spey or switch rods that is fine, to much for a trout rod. You also only need the 12 if you choose, then go to a snake guide.
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I am also a hobby builder, but all I build is fly, switch or spey rods. I have built Batson and Rainshadow blanks and followed the guide chart provided, they all cast very well. For a 5wt you do not need anything bigger than a 12 stripper (IMHO) and you only need one, two is fine. From reading this board and Tom Morgan's thoughts on guides I have been trending to smaller guides. The one note of c
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Would agree with Phil. Full wells and 7" is fine. If you have hands like the jolly green giant may want 7 1/2".
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I have a burnishing tool with a wood handle and a semi-pointed metal tip. It is absolutely wonderful and other than something sharp to cut thread would be the last thing I would do without. Comfortable in hand, packs thread well and does not damage it.
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You might try a plain white vinegar. Was used long ago buy the car guys to remove wax before they reapplied.
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You could glue them in place with the guide adhesive. I can not get them straight enough. I use the small rubber bands for braces. Just wrap them around the blank 2,3,4,5 times as the blank gets smaller and roll them in place. I use two for each foot, one close to the tip of the foot and one towards the guide. Then cust them off as you reach them. You might have to adjust the guide slightly but g
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In his original post he said it was a 13' switch rod. Does not sound like either has much experience with spey or switch rods. A 13' deer creek is a spey rod, an 11' is a switch rod. I do know something aout them since I spend about three months in the fall chasing steelhead in the PNW. I actually have two deer creek spey rods. As a switch rod the 8wt is still not rated like a single handed r
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we will end the confusion
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If it is bamboo it is not round it would be either 5 sided or six sided (most common). If you are in Missoula you might take it to the Grizzly Hackle Fly Shop and see if they can help identify. Who is the maker and what is written on the rod? Your best bet for an accurate appraisal and identification would be here. You will need a detailed description and good pictures before they will give
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Thanks for the infomation
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I am building a Sage ESN 10' 2wt fly rod for someone. On Sage's site it says to use a sz 12J stripper. First I was wondering what the J stands for? Also Putting a sz 12 stripper on and then going to a 4 single snake guide, the stripper looks huge. What are your thoughts on going with a sz 10 stripper?
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I would agree with some of the points in the article. I have tried a few finishes and experimented with how I applied it and different finishes. I still struggle to get that perfect finish but it is getting better. I do use a rod turner but when I apply to a large area I stop it and apply the finish length wise (not around the blank like a guide wrap). I also apply the finish first then move to t
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Not sure if it will help? If you get to the point of sanding or you might tray a small spot and see, but goof off is fairly harsh stuff. It has removed a few things that DNA would not.
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Since I have much less experience than most on the board take this into consideration. For a bump, tag end or an uneven spot I use 1500 or 600 wet dry sand paper. I cut it in narrow strips (the width of the wrap or less). The finish needs to be dry and firm. I also put a wrap of masking or painters tape next to the wrap so I do not damage the blank. I have tried the razor blade and did not like
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Any chance you could order a bottom section? Might be worth a try.
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May or may not be what you are looking for but a suggestion from my experience. I bought my daughter an Echo Gecko fly rod. I can not over state how impressed I am with the rod. It is a 7'6" 4wt 3pc rod and I over lined it with a WF-5- F line. It has small lower grip so they can spey cast with it also. For a child that small that is what I would teach him. The rod just casts great period and
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Angler's Workshop carries the full Snake brand > line. I ordered two sets of snake guide from them this week.
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