sculpted by hand. no lathe
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trim wraps are only on the stripper and tip. micros
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*Adenddum* Half, or cigar shape, have always been my preferred
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Hm, that's a pretty obvious solution... Turning it as a full first then changing if need be. I'm kind of short and have smaller hands and so the half had always been a bit more comfortable, but I'll give the full a try at first. Thanks!
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Hello, I have a silly question, at least silly to me. I'm going to be building a 9wt fly rod and I'm partial to the half wells style grip, but I know heavier fly rods usually utilize full wells. So I guess my question is, would it make a difference?- functionally? I'm sure it wouldn't, at least I think it wouldnt, but I'd rather have some feedback for my own peace of mind. It's funny because I
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Couple years ago everyone was going crazy about Graphene, which was basically a sheet of carbon one atom thick, is strong & flexible and i had heard of some people talking about wanting to make a rod out of it, but now a new carbon structure was just made, called Carbyne. It's atomic configuration gives it ungodly characteristics: "Carbyne is flexible, twice as hard as graphene, and req
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Of course Ive taken the reel into consideration. I even mentioned it in my original post...
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Cool, thanks! What I was going to do was put on all the guides, get squared away and set with resin, then check how it is. Judging by where the fulcrum is now, I'll probably most definitely do the inscription in the split. Reason for the marbling was to make sure to add juuuust enough weight. I don't use hookkeepers a lot (no real good reason, I just don't) so maybe itll compensate. I was thin
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So I'm working on this rod, and So far all ive done is get the handle set up. Eva Split grip with pac bay casting minima. Guide train will be micros because why not, and I love micros. Right now, without anything else other than the handle and reel seat the fulcrum is a few inches in front of the reel seat bare, and just head of it with a reel locked on. Now, my original idea with this build was
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Well Don, looks like we're outnumbered... For the telescoping rod, where does it telescope? just the handle? Thanks for all the input. Cam
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That's what i was leaning to. Just wanted some outside opinion. Also, of the 2 models, the straight one piece is the Fast action. The Moderate Fast is a telescopic. Not a fan of that design. Thanks
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So I'm doing a Flippin & Punching rod. Using the American Tackle Bushido Flipping Stick. My only question of curiosity is what is the better choice in action? Fast or Moderate Fast? Other sources I've researched are somewhat split, so I'd just like some more opinions. Thanks, Cam
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I built a rod specifically for frog/topwater and I made a 10" handle on a 7'6" blank. I found this length perfect. Not too long not too short. Long enough to leverage by holding the rear of the handle for a good over-head long-bomb cast, yet short enough to still fling it side-arm one-handed. Long enough to torque up on a fish in a fight, and short enough to pop a walking lure for good
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That would probably be the L.L. Bean Double L mid arbor reel, if its like a copper color. Its a lower costing reel but good for the price. ~$100
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Can't see why the minima wouldn't hold fine. But I'll test it and see. I just wanted to try something different
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Yeah, see that's what i thought, but I didn't know if there was anyhting i was missing
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Thanks for the input Ken, and i may do that for the butt, but for the tip section i definitely like to find the spine. Another question though, I'm considering using a Pac Bay minima seat like for a spinning reel as my seat. Thinkk that would be fine? I don't know why i wanted to try it, experimentation I guess. If anyone has anything to weigh in on that I'd appreciate it. Cam
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You may remember a question i posted a week or so ago about the guides for my newest 8wt. (btw, I went with 9x size 3 snakes from Snake brand as all the runners. May use one 4 right after the stripper, or 2 strippers) Well the blank came in today. Feels like a great blank, Rainshadow RX7. It's a two piece and I've gotten the spine on the top section which is the obviously the more flexible, but f
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Went with 16, 12 fuji feet for strippers then Snake Brand snake guides 6,5,5,4,4,3,3,3,3 + tip. I wanted to try snake brand. Heard a lot about them. Now to do cork or eva foam handle. The guides are black nickel and my thread will be trimmed lightly with gold so I think the eva would look better.
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Thanks to all for the input. I'll probably use doubles on like the first two and singles as the rest of the runners. I really don't see the point of doubles, and I couldn't imagine it would really cause any significant performance change other than weight reduction, but whatever. Also, for those that asked or mentioned, I don't use loop/loop connections. I prefer blood knots or something else,
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Maybe carefully grind it down with a small file and then flame it to try and smooth it out again? Shouldn't be a problem as there will be another layer over it, right? Cam
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Hm... I get your idea, what about a compromise? Doubles on the lower end, singles on the upper & tip? I don't know, just thinking. How's that sound? Unnecessary? Thanks for your input, Cam
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Building a 9' 8wt fly rod, pretty fast action. Question: single-foot or double-foot guides? Uses mostly for large pike, tiger muskie, and large mouth. maybe big browns thanks, Cam
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cool thanks
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I'm looking to build a new fly rod as I chase big chunky trophy largemouth, and as by-catch the odd pike and tiger muskie (maybe do some big brown trout fishing too), so need a good 8/9 wt for throwing big fat chubby articulated deer hair behemoths properly. Figuring I'll go with MHX; I've built 2 rods on their blanks before and like them. Ideally, I'd like a 9' 8/9wt as a one piece but that runs
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Gee, i didn't think it was that common. I've only used cork and luckily I like to shape my handles all by hand. I did my first with a power drill as a make-shift lathe but I just prefer the feel and precision of doing it by hand so when i discovered the weak spot I could stop before I punctured it. And thanks for the info on sealing. I had thought about using a syringe to inject some rod paste or
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Anyone while sculpting EVA foam grips discover, like, a 'bubble' or some kind of void deep inside that was otherwise impossible to find until you ground down to it? I was sculpting the foam and suddenly felt an anomaly and went to see if it's just a high spot but it feels like a bubble or some kind of cavity. At first i thought maybe i ground too far down but all around it and directly opposite t
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Great idea... disposable plastic spoons would make for easier clean up over the melon scoop maybe.
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I really like that statement Kristopher... it makes a lot of sense. I think I probably will go for micros, might as well give it a try; not like I can't always remove them and do something else. i started out in this craft repairing, refurbishing, and re-wrapping guides on old rods anyway. Everyone's input is very valuable. My first post and I've already gathered much concise information, bett
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Joe, Well, I got through undergrad well enough while feeding my kayaking, fishing, hiking, general outdoorsing addiction, but thanks for the concern! About the underwraps, as i said a couple times before, i probably won't do it (at least, now), but maybe in the future when I'm more set up I'll test the idea and make 2 identical rods, one with and one without and see if theres a discernible effec
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