As Tom and others have said it will work for cork and eva but not good for wood. Also note that the standard chuck is plastic and you will be reducing its live span if you plan on doing much turning. If you are even considering up grading your chuck for just turning you might want to check out Harbor freights 18" lathe(when on sale which is often + 20% off coupon it will only be a bit more
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Sam you are right. Wrapping mono over the base wrap of a tiger wrap will pretty much show how the tiger wrap will look. Actually this method(I think it is called the calydascope wrap-pretty sure this is the wrong spelling)is where you do a base wrap like a regular tiger. The top layer you use 40-60lb mono. This gives a great effect, even more so than a regular tiger. You do not want to put finish
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Hi Randy. Talk to Ryan as he will steer you in the right direction. Your problem is going to be with the reel more than the rod. Most west coast guys(So. Cal) run 40lb min. if you are going to be doing vertical jigging. As this is a rod building forum I wont get into reel stuff and I am not sure what species you are targeting. Rockcod/ling cod are a big difference than yellowtail when it comes t
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x2 what Chuck just said.
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Polyester is good. Mega color selection.
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I only commented about the thread trick as I know quite a few guys that use it and it seems to work. I have used it numerous times and I have never had a problem. And I say this as the other day I coated a rod wrapped with Madeira and in my absent mindness I did not put any thread in the finish and it fisheyed like crazy. I am no chemical expert, just passing along some info.
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Gary as Barry said it is impregnated with silicon. If you don't put color preserver on it, it will almost disappear(as with most untreated thread)once you put epoxy on it. . Also while mixing your epoxy throw in a 1 1/2" to 2" piece of the Madeira thread. Some how it acclimates the epoxy to the thread when coating. This will prevent the "fish eyeing" this thread is known to d
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Roger, I have built several rods using their blanks and am impressed with the quality. I have also been through the factory as it is close to where I live. Well run operation and they are made here in the good ol' USA. Tim
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Tom in a nutshell hits the nail on the head. Color preserver is named color preserver for a reason. That's what it is designed to do. It also can be used to seal the threads. It is designed to be used with regular nylon thread. Most regular nylon thread with no color preserver on it(as Chad mentioned) will become semi-transparent to transparent(coat non CP white thread with finish and it pretty m
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Hi Ron. Just a side note. If you plan on it becoming more than a hobby(doing advertising, ect) and becoming more of a business you will want to make sure you pay the federal excise tax which you will pass as a charge/include in price of the rod to your customers. Tom has a good article that explains the whole thing. Don't need the IRS breathing down your neck. Tim
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What Randy said is how I do it as well. Most jobs are finished off with a turks head so you don't see the small bump.
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David, I take it that you have your Employer ID # which is required to file. Tom will probably jump in as he steered me the right direction years ago. There is an article he wrote as well that has a lot of good info.
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X2 what John said. Do it often when doing marbling jobs.
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X2 on what Tom said. You just got to be careful when you burnish the thread as metallic's are not forgiving like regular thread.
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Steve, like Mike said, you just need to CP it. I'am doing 6 rods right now that are a mix of Madeira, metallic and reg. nylon threads. I do it all the time and never had an issue...knock on wood.
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Chester. I feel, as some of the input I got, that if I "stress test" the blanks prior to building and I let the customers know that this is done, that if the rod breaks when they are doing their "thing" that I wont be inclined to refund them their $$ so easily. And it will be more on them to deal with the manufactures warranty.
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Thanks for all the input guys. He called me today and I don't know if it being Christmas and all but he says he feels bad about what happened and I think he realized I wasn't real happy either and we worked out the situation and came to an agreement. I kinda glad this happened as now ALL blanks prior to assembly will be "stress tested" and I will handle things differently if this situat
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Thanks for the compliment Jimmy. I did charge him for the color change and I was stuck with him as I had already completed 7 rods with 5 more in various levels of being finished. And at least 3 more that he wants to order. Those are the ones that I am most likely bowing out on. My premise for this thread was to maybe get some various input on the ways to handle issues when dealing with customers
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I will get one done when I get a chance. Holiday stuff you know. It broke on the reel seat side, 3rd guide down(about 11") and about an 1/8" down from guide foot. Ya, Don he was casting a 6oz weight. He seemed real bumbed when I told him that I was finishing up with him. Roger when I get rod back from rod rep(getting it to him first of next week) I will definitely have to see about slee
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Thanks for the reply's guys. I contacted a builder I know that is highly respected and he told me the same thing Roger. I will be stress testing all blanks from now on, especially the saltwater builds. I refunded the customer his money on the broken rod and will deal with the manufacturer myself. I am going to finish the build out on the other 5 and and recommend he find another builder. He is qu
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I have been building rods for 35 years with the last 3 as a steady legitimate side business. Never have had an issue or complaint after an untold amount of custom rods built. Well my luck just ran out. After a customer picked up his 2 Med/Hvy saltwater rods today he went home and did some casting and then tied off to see what kind of bend the rod would have. He told me he was not exerting that m
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I gotta back Billy and Roger. I've even done guide replacements for customers in which they asked me to recoat all the guides to "freshen em up" and have never had any issues and I don't even know on some of the off the shelf rods were even coated with initially. Never had any problems/complaints and I know I'am talking 20+ times. Maybe I've just been lucky!
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Hi Mike. I bought an earlier generation custom power wrapper almost 30 years ago. It still works great. The only difference I can tell from mine to the newer versions is the supports/chuck are better. It is now my secondary machine or the one my son uses to help out. My primary wrapper I use now is an Alps with upgraded chuck. Both perform equally well and I don't notice any major differences. I
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X2 what Tom said.
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Randolph got it. The other urethane is a non sponsored product. Yes Gabe, this is the prep work I do prior to applying the epoxy. Another trick that works is after applying color preserver and giving it the 12 hours or so dry time and you are ready to apply epoxy, cut a 2" or so piece of madeira thread and put it in with the epoxy and then mix up like you normally would do. Don't ask me how
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Just make sure you seal it well prior to putting finish on or you will get fish eyes. Silicone in the thread. I do 2 coats color preserver and one coat of one of the urethanes(cpxtra or permagloss).
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Thanks for reminding me Tom. Just re-upped the subscription.
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Saw a you tube video of a guy using a regular 2 bladed disposable razor to shape it to size and then smoothed it out with 300/400 grit sand paper. Worked real nice/fast to get it shaped before final finishing. On hypalon only. Probably wouldn't use on EVA as drywall screen works better.
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Wont let me post where you can get it. Sorry.
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Mike, all the guys above have given you some great tips so I wont elaborate much more. I take it you already have 1 rod wrapper for making rods and are looking to possibly get another for turning grips. If you plan on doing a lot of grip work especially with wood you are way better off with a lathe. The motors used on rod wrappers will not last along time doing a lot of grip work. Plus it is a
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