<p style="padding-left: 30px;">Unknown manufacturer blank ID</p>
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Thanks Robert! That is probably the post I remember seeing here.
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Yes, of course, there are many ways to deal with those bubbles and everybody does it differently. It is not very often that I need to use the "bubble buster" product, but sometimes it helps. If not mistaken I remember seeing a post on this forum about a simple DIY alternative for it, so this is why I asked.
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I use this Mudhole product occasionally to get rid of stubborn micro bubbles in epoxy finish. Is there a simple DIY alternative for this product?
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Thanks Aleks! Does this forum have a "Like" button?
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FWIW, I just use flat synthetic "artist" brushes you can buy on Amazon. U40 brush cleaner is quick and easy to use to clean those brushes, plus less garbage than single use brushes.
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Have a question about a saltwater fly rod build that I want to make as light as possible especially toward the tip. I am using recoil guides with minimal length wraps. Now, for additional weight savings in the top two sections I am thinking about using Permagloss instead of 2 part epoxy finish. I have done this for a couple of freshwater builds and it works great. However, this one is for the sal
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Roman, I have sent a couple messages to your emai > address and have received error messages. ???? Hmm.. that's weird. I just checked my profile, it shows the right address. Airs98 at yahoo.
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This is what I have for the 8wt. in the Gamma Beta lineup: ERN: 10.33 (86c) 276gr. line AA: 67 CCF: 83.2
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Will do! Found a pretty close match I think... now need to tape the guides and go do some test casting.
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Thank you for the ideas guys! Sounds like it might just work with the right blank. Appreciate all the input here in this thread!
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Tom, I have already tested a few sections, they are pretty close except for the color. Can you tell me a reason why you believe it's hard? Isn't that article about fixing broken rods also suggesting finding a similar taper for inner/outer sleeves? I can also cut a section a bit to fit the taper of the ferrule if that is something that may work. Or, do you guys think it's just a really bad idea
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That's good to know! Thanks Richard!
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As I have mentioned in another thread I have a broken tip section and the blank (5FS9010-4) is no longer available. With so many 9' fly blanks in different weights and colors I have accumulated over the years there maybe a close match that fits the ferrule of the broken blank. Are there any concerns/issues/problems that I should know about before I build and use a tip section from a different gra
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Yeah, those blanks are/were expensive. I was thinking if I just find another 9' 4 piece blank in a similar aqua blue color with a tip section that a close fit it would probably make this rod functional again. It won't be the same, but something is better than nothing. It should work, right? Meanwhile, I can work with St. Croix/Rodgeeks to get a replacement blank they currently offer.
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A client of mine broke his favorite fly rod I had built for him on St. Croix 5FS9010-4 blank. I called St.Croix and they told me they no longer provide any warranty and sent me to Rodgeeks. The Rodgeeks said they only have SC2 and SC4 fly blanks. Now that is the problem... I am sure I am not the only one in this interesting situation. Has anyone of you guys been able to get a replacement tip sect
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Thank you for the responses! Sounds like either will work, but cork may still have an edge over CF.
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Are there any considerations for cork vs. carbon fiber grip on a tropical saltwater 8wt. build?
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Does it matter if there is a fighting butt? or no fighting butt? still 32"?
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BTW, do you know that there is no silver in "Nickel Silver"? It's basically brass nickel alloy.
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:) Yes, there was some simple formula I have found on this website a few years ago. Unfortunately, I can no longer find it using the search feature. So, if Tom says there is no way to calculate the "optimal" 30' fly line weight from the ERN, then this number is irrelevant. Please disregard.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Regarding the original post, 93 cents gives 10.8 > ERN, doesn't it? Still quite a ways off from what > one would expect. Roman, 330 grams = 132 pennies ? > Which is ERN over 13? Do I need a refresher on > how to read the chart? Thanks in advance for any > help here. Michael, sorry for t
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I have built on the same blank last year. My measurements for ETER909-4CB were: Weight: 2.23oz spec: 2.20, ERN: 11.46 (102c) 330gr, AA: 68, CCF: 80.5
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Seth Johnson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The IV I assume? I was looking at the Galvan > Torque 8 but at $400+ it will be even longer for > me to get into this. What are some of your > favorite lower priced reels? That's the one! The 2018 best saltwater reel "Best buy". Love that reel.
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Orvis Hydros SL is what I would use. Check it out!
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No patience, no love...
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Would a few layers of Permagloss make a CA finished reel insert usable? I think I might have a couple of inserts finished with CA. Is there a way to salvage them?
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Ron, thank you for taking care of business even while you were in the middle of unpacking. Glad to hear you are baaack!
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Thank you guys for your input. The reason I thought it could be Batson is because I saw those kinds of labels before on Batson blanks. Maybe they were factory seconds so they didn't get the official Batson label. I can try to get in touch with them, but since this is an old blank and most likely not a first quality blank they may not be super quick to respond.
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Need a little help from you guys. I have a 9 weight blank manufactured back in 2006. I think it was made for/by Batson Enterprises, but I am not sure. It appears to be a high quality, well made blank. Measured weight is 2.00 oz, butt diameter is 0.410", and tip is 4.5. This is the picture of it with the "label". Can anyone of you guys who were building rods in 2006 identify th
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