Tom, thank you so much!
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I know there is a directory for this, but it does not seem to be working for me. Anyways, I am trying to locate a rodbuilder in the central PA area who has experience repairing broken rods. My father broke his 9' fly rod about 2' from the tip. It is a 5 weight All Star Austin that I built and he really likes the rod. I don't have any experience repairing breaks and since I don't really have t
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Just to add to what Mike said...I have done a few epoxy ramps and I have used 5 minute so far (although I may change at some point to the gel). To shape the ramp and get it nice and smooth I dip a finger in denatured alcohol and turn the rod while shaping. I wait a couple minutes after putting the epoxy on to start shaping until it just starts to set up. Don't wait too long because once it set
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I started out with FC lite build which I did have good success with. Karen at Bingham suggested the TM on my last order (she was out of FC) and I have been very pleased with it so far, even though it is not a lite build. I have been heating the resin in the microwave to help thin it a bit though. The few bubbles I get are easily removed by heating with a lighter. The stuff is clear as glass!
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I just started making my own grips, and I have been doing the second way that Terry mentioned. I turn the rubberized ring at the same time as the grip so that they match up and then I ream the grip but leave the rubberized ring alone and glue it it to the butt along with the small plug after the grip has been epoxied fast. Some light sanding and done. It seems to work pretty well this way.
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I just was in contact with her via email. Might your Russian email address be getting marked as spam?
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When I am faced with this issue where I don't like the intersect point I use the method suggested by others here. Bend the rod so that the tip is 90 degrees to the butt and place the butt guide at the point where the rod begins to flex. From there line up the spool spindle and the edge of the butt guide to find the intersect point.
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Emory, I am not saying that I would personally ever use that many guides on a rod to keep the line off the blank. That's one of the advantages of using a spiral setup. But to your point about the line not normally moving when the rod is at its maximum deflection, the line may not be moving as quickly as when during a cast, but if a fish is taking drag, the line certainly has more tension in
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If you are using Fuji Concept style guides, then that many guides may be required to keep the line off of the blank. Have you considered going with a bumper spiral setup? That would help eliminate some.
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Dave, I am in the process of building a 9'6" med-light med-fast action steelhead/salmon rod. I went with a 11.5" rear grip and a 3.5" front grip. I went with a DNPSD20 Fuji reel seat. I mounted it with the threads to the front and trimmed the seat to fit the reel foot. Altogether a VERY comfortable seat and handle. I am using 11 Fuji alconite guides using the New Concept me
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Thanks for the info. I would have thought that scratches and gouges would increase the bond strength by increasing the mating surface area.
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When prepping a metal fly seat, should I scuff up the epoxy surfaces with sandpaper (I assume that scotch-brite won't do much for metal). Should I also scuff up the recessed hood? Thanks!
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Reading that article, is it true that Asian rods do not typically employ "blank through" construction?
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I've never used that style of tip top, but looking at them, I would think it would be difficult to wrap from the tip down and manage to keep the thread packed tightly. I'm sure you are going to need to prep that guide too.
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Jack, I don't think anyone answered your questions about which direction to wrap in. For wrapping the tip-top and the butt wrap, start at the top or grip and wrap away from it. This will allow you to pack the wraps tight to the top or grip. If you wrapped the opposite direction when you did the pull through, you would end up creating a gap at the top or grip. Hope that helped!
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Keep the sleeve as it should fit into the skeleton reel seat (I assume the sleeve is longer than the insert) to keep everything nicely aligned.
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A double foot guide for the butt may be preferable since it can take a bit more abuse and that's the guide that I usually abuse the most (propping rod up against side of boat).
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I also use the nylon bolt and nut (and sometimes a nylon washer) as mentioned on this site to hold small guides (Lowes has quite an assortment). I use a hand-held dremel tool for grinding and have learned the hard way to wrap the base of the frame in tape to prevent slips from marking the pretty guides!!
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I see says the blind man!!!
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I think my problem then was just that I was trying to make the arbors too snug. I will try making them fit looser next time. I would have used the Flex Coat arbors, but the space that I needed to fill was quite small because of the reel seat I used, so I was afraid that I would have broken the foam arbors if I sanded them so thin. Thanks for the help!
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My first attempt at using fiberglass drywall tape for bushings failed pretty miserably. Everything was going well until I went to disassemble the handle after fitment and the bushings were destroyed in the process. The problem is that the fiberglass tape has adhesive on the outside as well as the inside so it ends up sticking to the handle components. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks!
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Wow that was a quick reply Tom!! That's what I expected to hear, but I was hoping for some reasurrance from someone with more experience. Thanks!
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Since I've never used the bumper system before I have a question about how many guides to use on a 7' light action casting rod using alconite concept guides. I was thinking of using a BLNAG 12 for the stripper and then a BLNAG 10 for the second guide followed by 8 BLAG 6's with maybe a BLAG 7 thrown in if needed. The bumper will be a BLAG 6. This is based loosely on the FUJI concept guide plac
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I am building a casting rod based on an All Star GC/GS841 moderate action/ex. light power 7' blank to toss light stickbaits, etc. I was wondering if anyone has done this and what guides, spacings were used. Would spiral wrapping the guides be useful for a rod like this? I was thinking size 6 single foot fly guides would work well for all but the butt guide and the second guide. Thanks in ad
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I have a 6'6" lite action St. Croix SCII spinning rod that I love for smallmouths. Granted it's a little light for some of the Susky lunkers, but other than that I love it. It is well suited for tossing finesse baits and light cranks. Its a perfect match for the smaller bass on the Juniata.
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