I second the pack and burnish. But if youre using a standard nylon thread you will need some CP since you will see a color diference from dark to light.
Forum: rodboard

I believe most "glow" effect uses UV light to charge the effect so I would suggest doing a test wrap (with your finish) before placing it on the rod.
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I use A size for everything. Just my personal preference though.
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Do you live in an area that is seeing "spring time" weather changes? if so, are you mixing and applying the epoxy outside or with open windows? If you answer yes to both, it may be pollen in the mix tinting the epoxy yellow.
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Reel seat looks like a PacBay Channel Lock
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I will most certainly do that if Im in the area.
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That may be your issue, any tension applied directly to the foil will cause it to break. If you can, try applying the tension to the spool instead of the thread. I have used Guberod before and currently using Prowrap thread.
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Sounds like you had too much tension on the thread. How were you tensioning the thread?
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In this case I believe "cold one" would refer to pepsi or coke. ;)
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Brad, I live near Court and Missouri
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Not too badly, but I do live in FL and tell them cheapest method
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as long as epoxy is over epoxy or uerathanes over urethanes or epoxy over urethanes youre ok in that sense. You cannot put urethanes over epoxt, the finish will blister. Also if you wait more than a few days, lightly scuff the surface of the cured epoxy before applying a new coat. you can also mix the resins and hardners of multiple epoxies. Billy V has done some testing with equal parts pr
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It may not be exactally what youre looking for, but when I did a google search the 4th or 5th link down was a magazine for woodturning, and there were plenty of books to go along with that trade listed on that site too.
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Cool, another crafter in the Clearwater area. Enjoy your rod Brad hope to see you fishing in the buyous and mangroves
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Its easy to change directions on an AC gear motor like the ones used for drying. just hold the belt pully for a second while the power is on, then the magnatisms reverse, reversing the motor. Now, I believe my wrapping motor in my amtac wraper is DC and if the wrapping direction gets reversed, there is a major problem or I twisted the belt to the chuck.
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Ok to bill's defence, he is saying in a pinch, if for some reason you got the wrong one and didnt have time to rma it back and get a replacement, if the check is too small it can be reamed
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So I wasnt the only one that was having that de-spolling issue with the metalic thread. Another thing you can try ,that worked great for me, was pulling a loop through just large enough to keep my fingers away from the razor and cutting both ends of the loop.
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Building rods is like eating a pringles chip, you cant stop at one. (Im 8 rods and 1 rebuild later still not near stopping)
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I dont see why you couldnt use it for a casting rod, if you try it just watch for line to blank contact and put an extra guide there. Im thinking it would need 2 to 4 extra guides in the bend area of a fast action rod, might need more for a slow action.
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Doesnt Shimano use proprietary stuff on their rods?
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The fiber issue is why I use foam, starting with the second rod I've ever built. for the most part I dont let the brush touch the rod and allow the spinning rod to pull the epoxy off the foam. The only time I really apply pressurre is the first layer of guide wraps and that is to force epoxy to fill the void between the thread and foot.
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Its common when fiberglassing a new deck on a boat (or anything for that matter) to apply the second layer of fiberglass and new resin the first coat is in a tacky state, it creates a "wet bond" and helps the fiberglass stop de-laminating and the end result is 1 solid layer of fiberglass after the last coat of epoxy is allowed to cure. the principle would be simular just no extra threa
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It will be your best piece of equipment yet.
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Usually if something has a shelf life it is listed on the pachaging some where in a date code at minimum, I havent seen anything like that on liquid epoxy.
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Prokote also has a much better bubble release than flexcoat does. I havnt had to heat or thin my prokote (left in the mixing cup) yet where I have to heat flexcoat everytime to get rid of all the bubbles (even when I poured it onto a foil)
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I believe their secerete is machines make the rod start to finish (Uglystick and other store brands) the hand made production rods probably use large batches of epoxy and coat several rods at the same time. a local tackle center uses a FC high build and the plastic brushes, an epoxy mixer and something for heat, but they are making "custom" rods. All 3 of them are probably
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I use foam brushes. are you using epoxy?
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looks like question 1 and 2 were the same answer. aslong as you put epoxy on epoxy or epoxy on urathanes (ie permagloss) you are fine, but if you try to put urethane on epoxy, it will blister and weaken.
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Im not much of a fly fisher so my knowledge may be wrong, andif it is I know some one will correct me. you are correct about inserts adding weight to a guide, the more weight a blank has to handle the slower and less sensative it becomes. I'm not sure if it is still accurate, but I have read in a few place's most recently Tom's mag, that the size listed for the guide is to the inside of the
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I do the same as Roger, I let the rod turn over night that way there is no question.
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