This previous post from Jim Ising helps slightly, but the mention of the new FC tops really doesn't help because they only come in tubes up to 6.5: "I don't have an official answer from Fuji, but the idea that tops "match" guides seems contrary the fact that for some guide frames we offer and list up to five different top designs as "recommended". Yes, some frames seem
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Billy V. introduced me to the TLDBSG guides years ago and I have been using them for micro guide surf rods ever since. It is great to see major vendors now carrying the series and Fuji adding the KR series guides with high frames and small rings, but...we still have the same problem: Unless you are building a rod with a tube of 6.5 or smaller, you will not find a matching top. Most surf rods have
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Thank you for clarifying. That makes sense... or should I say "cents".
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I understand that the ERN # is a guideline, but I am curious why a company that publishes its ERN #s has blanks rated for a particular weight line, but yet their ERN # would indicate more than one line size higher. For example: The 9' 7WT from this company has an ERN of 8.63 which puts it in the eight weight class for sure. Why wouldn't they change their line rating and call it an eight weight to
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think by gap he means in the circumference, not > in a spigot. > > .............. That is correct, Tom. I will do the trim but will try to locate the RM article anyway.
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No, it is a newer rod blank, and it does "click" when flexed back and forth.
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Thank you, Tom.
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I have an inexpensive fly blank that has an issue with the ferrule. It seems that the male section is making strong contact in the female section at a point about 3mm down from the tip of the male end, and there is a slight (tenth of a mm maybe) gap at the ferrule seam (at the end of the female section where the two pieces meet). Assuming I don't want to epoxy the two sections together, what woul
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In the MHX catalog the two-piece 903 and the 904 are listed as MOD-FAST blanks, while on the website both blanks are listed as FAST. Can anyone tell me which is correct?
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Has anyone tried using the Fuji single foot k-series guides on a fly rod? I understand that the concept behind the K-series is to shed knots on thin line (braid) at high speed, and that in flyfishing we are dealing with thick line, no knots, and low speed. However, I was wondering if the angle of the k-guides would be beneficial in any way to flycasting. My guess is that the angle of the guide op
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Has anyone flocked over x-flock shrink grip or quick grip? I would assume it wouldn't be a problem but checking to see if anyone has tried it. Thanks. Scott
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I agree that you will be fine with 7's. I use 6's (TLDBSG) on surf rods and have no trouble even when passing a uni-knotted 40# braid shock leader. (It is a very small knot tapered using knot sense).
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You might use a double foot guide for the first guide and all the rest single foot OR just go single foot the whole way. I have striper rods build both ways and I have found single foot guides hold up just fine.
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I have a couple of surf rod blanks (two piece) where the blank is a hollow cylinder and you can see through it end to end. I usually epoxy the hole in the butt, and have used EVA foam and epoxy to plug up the top. I do it because I don't want to deal with water or sand in the blank. Is there any other advantage to doing this? Is it necessary? Thanks.
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If I order a subscription this week would I get this issue with the rod breakage?
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Great, Tom! That is where I was going, so you confirmed my experiment!
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The 27x formula has worked for me regarding placement of the choking guide. Because of the limited flex in the lower section of most rods, it seems apparent that there should be a formula for the placement of the gathering (largest) guide. The formula would have to be a function of the guide size, height and reel diameter. I wonder if anyone would be willing to work with this and report back. I h
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Wow! Thanks for the article by V. Marinaro. That does make a lot of sense!
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Chris Davis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No physics background-only horse sense. That works too! Thanks for the reply.
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Although, if the extra weight helped, wouldn't competitive distance casters add weight to the butt of their rods? Since they do not, I assume there is no advantage. In fact, distance casters just use a long lever with a very short butt and no added weight. Your thoughts...? I am especially interested in an explanation from someone with an engineering or physics background.
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I understand the argument between adding weight to the but of a rod so it feels more balanced in the hand and not adding weight to keep the overall weight down. What I am curious about is can adding weight to the butt of the rod help with casting? I am thinking about the physics involved. Think of a trebuchet, the counterweight at the base of the arm (rod) is what propels the payload forward. Whe
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good point!
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yes, it was like chamois! I'm trying to find it in lengths for a surf grip = 6' or so.
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Met a fisherman from South Africa and he showed me one of his surf rods that had a soft suede grip which was wrapped on the handle as you would with cork tape. The suede was 15 years old and in perfect condition; unaffected by salt water. It wasn't flocked - I know what that is like. Any ideas? The guy didn't know where he got it because it was from a friend.The stuff was the most comfortable gri
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I like my old one better. The new chuck has given me problems. I contacted PacBay and they said to secure it with rubberbands - that's what they do in their shop. Are you kidding me? Later they offered to replace it, but with the same product. Bottom line... they slip, though not as bad as you describe.
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Has anyone heard from Billy? Sent a couple of emails and haven't heard back which is unusual. He hasn't posted here or at another site he frequents in over three weeks. I am looking for some TLDBSGs and he is the man! I hope everything is ok.
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Loomis rods are the most difficult rebuilds in my opinion because of the epoxy they use and the fact that they paint or pigment many of their blanks, which comes off when using solvents. Their grips and reel seats are also very difficult. Use a heat gun on low for a short time to soften the epoxy finish.
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That was it! Thanks, Steve.
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I remember reading a "rule of thumb" that the distance between the tip and the first guide (smallest) should generally be between _____ inches and _____ inches but never more than ______ inches. I understand static distribution and guide spacing theories, I just was trying to remember this "rule". Did a few searches but came up empty. I think the post was made by Tom. Also
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Lamiglas GSB 1321M - 11'er Lamiglas GSB 1201M - 10'er ...or take 6" off the butt of the 1321 for a 10'6" Good luck!
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