I finished my 10wt just in time the friday night before pike opened and fished it following sunday morning, no problems with it. I was glad I had it done in time.
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Tape the spot you are cutting and use a hacksaw. If the cut is out of sqare, it's easy to sand to square with 120 grit, then 300 to finish.
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I wrap the area I am cutting with tape and use a hacksaw and sand my cut to square if it isn't square to start.
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Batson RX7 8' 5wt in a grey matte finish. I built one as a fly rod, I find it pretty fast. Probably would make a nice spinning rod.
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There is a US tenkara website that sells tanago rods at a reasonable price.
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Bill, I did hand turn the rod, my wraps always turn out great that way. Thanks for the comments guys, I'm pretty confident I can fix it.
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I made my first try at putting a decal on a rod. I put on the first coat of Flexcoat, and it turned out perfect on one side and wavy with a few craters on the other. My plan to fix it (probably a week after the first coat) is to lightly sand with 400 or 600 paper, wipe it clean, put on the decal and then hope the second coat turns out. All comments are welcome, thanks! Double post, sorry every
Forum: rodboard

I made my first try at putting a decal on a rod. I put on the first coat of Flexcoat, and it turned out perfect on one side and wavy with a few craters on the other. My plan to fix it (probably a week after the first coat) is to lightly sand with 400 or 600 paper, wipe it clean, put on the decal and then hope the second coat turns out. All comments are welcome, thanks!
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Just put a 3wt line on a 2wt. Those MHX blanks might be too fast to turn out a 3wt.
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Try one of Batson's SPG blanks. I built the SPG 601 (5 ft 1 pc)and 720 (6 fot, 2pc) into fly rods this winter. I've only fished the 720 so far, and only a little bit, but it seems to make a good 4wt. I probably had $40-50 in each build, no more. My 5yo son was getting interested in fly casting watching me with the 720 at the creek. Now when he pretends to fish he always false casts a few times. :
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I wouldn't know if it's a proprietary guide, but if you download the PacBay catalogue from their website, they list all the dimensions of the guides, including the height. That should get you a better match at least.
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I've been measuring the inside of the ring, that explains the small size. Now I know, thanks!
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I've been measuring the inside diameter of the ceramic with calipers.
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I have no idea of the age of the rod, I think it was passed on to him when he got it. He'll be interested to know the age. I'll go with a 6 and a 4 then, thanks!
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Hi guys, I'm replacing the guides on a casting rod for a buddy. It's a 6'6 MH Quantum Iron rod, it has a size 8 casting guide at the reel, 2 missing single foot guides and then three 4mm running guides and the tiptop. I'm looking for some advice on what size the two missing guides should be. I'm just going to copy the factory guide size and placement, my buddy just wants to get it on the water an
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Getting a price from my guy on the minimas, thanks for all the answers, I appreciate the advice. :)
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I like the U40 cork sealer, it has a nice feel. It does darken natural cork considerably, and brings out the colours in burl cork.
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I plan on using a 2000 size reel, but that would mean juststarting with something higher than a 16 I think. Just the reel I have handy.
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Ricky and Roger: You guys are using the guides with the minima rings? Are they ok to stand up to braided line? Thanks!
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I'm going to use back to back uni knots to connect the leader and the mainline. Should be pretty small.
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I'm building a spinning rod on the Batson SPG 780 blank (2-6 lbs, 1/16 - 3/16 oz) for fishing ultralight crankbaits and beetle spins for bass and panfish. I was first planning on using standard spinning guides but I've been looking at the Batson single foot fly guides and micro guides to keep weight down in the tip. Did some searching on previous posts and I have a few questions. Using a NGC layo
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Thanks!
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Thanks Roger, it is just a little more smoothness I am going for, there is some of the thread texture showing through, especially on the guide foot. Is scuffing with 600 or 400 grit needed or can I go on the untouched epoxy?
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There is bad tag end I am going to trim, but the main reason is for depth of finish. It will probably be just a few drops on the two bigger wraps, it was my first try with epoxy and it turned out well except for that.
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What sort of prep of the wrap do I need to do for a second coat of flex Coat applied 1 or 2 weeks after the first? I need to add a small amount to get the build I desire on a few guides and I plan on doing it when I finish my next rod. Thanks!
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I find RX6 pretty soft, I have built the 6'6" 2 wt and the 7'9" 3 wt for creek fishing and I liked it a lot. You can have a lot of fun with a 6 inch rock bass. :) I don't know how it would do on bigger water though. No problem with the quality though.
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PacBay makes aluminum slip rings, I've only seen pictures but they look pretty good.
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I've used the Batson Forecast A7, it looks good and it was inexpensive, $13 CDN. It only has one locking but though, but I've never had an issue with it.
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I use a hole saw after I shape the grip, but I find that it tears out around the edges, especially since my cork is only about 1/16" thick around the hood. I've been using a 7/8" saw which fits perfectly, but I think going smaller, 3/4" or 13/16" if I can find it would elimate that tearout if I just enlarged it with a dremel after. Aside from that, it seems to be a good syste
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I have built two, the 6'6" 2wt and the 7'9" 3wt. I find them pretty soft and slow, almost too much for my tastes. I'm used to a TFO Lefty Kreh Signature, not a fast rod, but I find them much slower. I did have a lot of fun with both of them on panfish and creek trout fishing this past summer though. At the price they are worth a shot probably, especially for a first build.
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