I just acquired a Roddy Built Custom Fly Rod from my neighbor. Model appears to be a 2008? It is a custom built rod, metal ferrule, metal fly reel seat, old cork, plastic trim at the top of the cork. It has snake guides, no epoxy on the wraps. Looks to be around 7'-6". Has 4 guides including the stripper plus the tip. Just looking for information on it. It is a glass rod. I've read they were
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I use masking tape on all of mine, but most are for freshwater bass fishing. I just coat it well with the glue and slide the seat on.
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Carbon fiber frames would be the next step in my opinion, or something similar to Daiwas Zion or Shimanos CI4 material used in their reels. It's the dawn of composties.
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Awesome glad theyre finally in stock!! Had one on order for awhile.
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I used ProWrap NCP White and Pearl as well as Black and Metallic Black.
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Everything I've read has been to use the citristrip and a blade perpendicular to the blank. I've used the blade on the bottom of my Lami blank and it takes their cranberry paint off quite easy.
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Tackletour has a tuning forum and there are a lot of guys on there, me included, who have a thing for Abu's. Plenty of information on there regardingnupgrading the bearings, brakes, gearing, levelwind, handles, etc. If you're into reel customization, tackletour is the place to visit.
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Gary Snyder Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think the Daiwa Aird would be one of the > lightest in that price range, but it may even be > out of that price range. > > Be careful with the Pflueger President - there are > two models - the cheaper one is all plastic - the > other is a metal re-enforced body. I recommend the > latt
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Price point really limits you. You're looking for a super light spinning reel with high line capacity. I'd reccomend the Pflueger President in that price range, otherwise a Pflueger patriarch.
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But what is the negative effect when using a tapering set of guides as opposed to strippers straight to a single size finished on out?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Not to step on Ryan's toes but you don't need all > those extra sizes. They do nothing for you other > than add unnecessary weight and create a > stair-step line path. At the very most you need 3 > sizes, a stripper, a transition guide, then > running guides all of the same size. > > The
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WhenI built my TFO TiCr I followed the manufacturers suggestion. For the 9' 5wt 4 piece they reccomended a 16-12 for stripping guide then 4-2-2-1-1-1-1/0-1/0. Guide spacing from the tip is 5 1/8 - 10 7/8 - 17 1/8 - 24 - 31 1/2 - 39 5/8 - 48 1/4 - 57 1/2 - 67 3/8 - 77 5/8. Hope that helps.
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Yup I'll be reaming it out and putting a winding check on the top to cover.
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Of course this happens a week after one order and mere days after another.
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I always coat my tape arbors on all surfaces with the epoxy, once it dries it should be waterproof, not that any water should ever get in there! I can understand the newspapers. I bought a vehicle once where the previous owner put newspaper in the dash and doors as sound deadener, it hadnt held up well.
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Whats so wrong with using masking tape for arbors?
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Awesome thanks for the info. Getting components this week. It's 3rd in line of rod to do this month!
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My girlfriends dad just found one of these blanks in an old rod tube and gave it to me. I'm looking into what applications this rod would have for Steelheading. It is super light, 1/16-3/8 lure 2-6lb line 9' rod. It looks like it would work well for a super light finesse drift fishing situation, but being somewhat new to Steelheading I have no idea. Trying to get a feel for the rod before I g
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Awesome. I'm basing my new Musky rod build on one of their blanks!
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I have not ran into any really bad bleed through like that using NCP thread.
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I just wrapped a Batson BP1024F which is a two piece salmon trolling rod with a spiral. My 3rd rod ever and my first spiral wrap. I used a 4 guide transition. I'd say it is possible!
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Wow that stacked grip is very interesting. I will be trying to keep the weight down on this rod though. This will be my personal Musky Fishing rod and I'll be throwing 1-6oz swimbaits and Bucktails all day with it. Lighter is better, especially with a 10oz reel already. Leather might get heavy... I've never done a cord grip before, could be interesting. Thanks for the ideas so far!
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Does such a thing exist? I dont want to use EVA, not a huge fan of it. I much prefer the feel of Super Grade cork. I'm going to be doing a Pirate themed rod with black and white wraps and a custom painted Abu Revo Toro reel in black and white. I'm not sure how cork would look with this. So far the plan is to use Batsons Supergrade "High end" split grips. Suggestions?
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Using the technique on this site I was able to slide a 16" Hypalon grip down a rod blank with a .8ø at the bottom. It's all about inside coverage of the bonding agent to help slide it down.
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I was told by another builder to size the first spinning guide based off of the spool lip size on the reel. Say the spool lip is 42mm (Pflueger Patriarch 9525 in this case), you divide that by two and use the closest guide. 42/2=21. So I should use a size 20 guide to start for whatever rod I build for this reel.
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It shapes like EVA but it gums up sanding agents really quick. It really is a cool material, now if it just wasnt so heavy!
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The only markings on the blanks I receive are the china markings where the supplier has sized up my components to properly size my aluminum winding checks.
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I just got my first ALPS Triangle seat today and put it on a blank. I mounted up one of my Shimano Curados just for a quick test fit of a reel and noticed the same thing. Even when cinched all the way down there was still a little play with the reel. The seat is gorgeous though!
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I just use ProKote epoxy over decals. This includes factory rod decal stickers and decals bought from mudhole.
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I should have clarified in my response, no one makes one thats 7' or 7'-6". Being that my main application will be mountain lakes I want the extra casting distance and long range control a longer rod will give me.
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