Bob, that worked a treat, steamed for up to 5 minutes and then when it had cooled down both ferrules instantly came apart. Oh and I also crossed my eyes, now how do I uncross them! Anyway, brilliant advice, thanks John.
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I just applied ferrule lube (the trondak ferrule lube solution) and followed the instructions on the bottle, cleaned the ferrules then scotchbrite, ferrule lube then ferrule lube again after allowing to dry for 30 seconds and then reassemble the rods as instructed. Note: The rod has been ferrule lubed before. This time after reasembling I went away and did other stuff and came back a to take t
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Dan told me he sold them for everything from Chinook Salmon to Tarpon. Maybe best if you speak to him direct. John
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I recently turned a fuji 16mm reel seat into a skeleton by chucking it in the lathe and using a parting tool. Worked well, quick and easy. I finished off with sandpaper. Tomorrow I am going to use the same method to reduce the length on a fuji quick locke foregrip for use as a small fighting butt on a lightweight fly rod. John
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Scott, What I did was mount it on a mandrel the same size or thereabouts as the hole in the cork without any reaming. I then turned it to the shape I wanted and took it off the mandrel. The hole in the cork was then a little small for the shaft of the spade bit I had so I reamed the cork out a little more so that the shaft would fit snug but not tight. There was then no need to use masking ta
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Pretty normal I think. I waited over a month and I ordered direct from CTS and I live in New Zealand. CTS as I understand it make a lot of their blanks to order, it may in fact be all of them. Mine certainly was made to order so on that basis a over a month would be reasonable I would think.
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Have to agree RM rocks, I too made reverse tapers on some spade bits and worked great. Drilled out lamar exotic cork and put some flexcoat arbors in them to lighten them up. Just tried 16 mm so far. I am going to try 20 mm soon and see if I can lighten em up more. Stuff like this from RM makes life so so easy. John
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I think some of those calls you had to get up for while typing your message were from me Andy. You are quite right, I chose not to leave another message. Enjoy your holiday. cheers John
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I have had the same problem Scott, emails and 1 phone message unanswered. Called often also. Frustrating for me but he must be a very busy man. John
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Bob, Just rang my ISP and got an automated message apologising for the delay some customers are experiencing in receiving their emails. Maybe it will come right but I didn't have the patience to wait while they played Briteny Spears etc etc untill a technician was available. I will work out the time differential and give you a call. Cheers John
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Thanks everyone. Some good ideas there for me to work on. John
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I have a CTS Revo Salt 12 to 14 wt. blank on which I want to use a fuiji skeleton seat with stabilised wood insert and a fuiji fighting butt (Quick lock foregrip KDPS16). I have just made my first wood insert for another blank and realise now that I will have to take the wood down to very very thin if this is going to work for the CTS blank. The butt of the CTS is 14.81mm and the inside diame
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Had emails from him 5 days ago. Instead of sending an email there is a form on his web site that you can fill in with your requests and submit it. I did that, he responded and emails after that.
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I just cut one by using my lathe and parting gouge.
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Cool, it is the RSFX I have coming. Thanks.
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Daniel, Is that breakage from reptitive flexing from repititive banging/real bending or just minimal flex from say casting etc? Gotta bunch of single foots coming my way, might be just as well I ordered some spares? Cheers
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I suspect it may have been the post I made regarding assistance in contacting PSI but I cannot be sure about that. It is not important either that I know. But I reiterate the last thing I said in my last post on that thread and that was what a great site this is. I received assistance in spades. John
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Everybody, thanks so much for your help. Problem solved and saved me bucks too which is even more pleasing. Gerry, you are so right. I have a Technatool chuck. Yes is works brilliantly using just the jaw slides, just tried it. Seems real obvious now. Great advice, thanks. Mike, Yes I have a drill chuck and I tried this but I did not like the amount of room it takes up, I would have to hav
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Gerry, To hold mandrels to turn cork on and also reel inserts once a hole is bored through them. I have a 4 jaw chuck made in NZ for holding blocks of wood etc. I am just starting out on this side of things so hope I have it right?
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Thanks Tom. I have had an offer by mail to help sort it so I will go down that path right now. Cheers John
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I would be very grateful if someone was able to assist me here. I live in New Zealand which makes things difficult when in a situation such as this. I ordered a 3 jaw chuck from PSI code C3J-4. This was on 26 October. I received a reply that advised the order number which is 152266. The email also advised they would be in touch again re shipping charges. Well, I have never heard from them
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On the blanks I had a CTS Revo Salt blank 12 to 14 wt arrive in my mail today. It is beautifully finished, straight as a die and surpringly light. I feel I could cast it for very long periods. Looks very powerfull in the butt section too. I will be building it light with titanium sics etc. Now this may not be the blank for your purposes and it is probably over your budget (I ordered mine direct f
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Daniel, I use the SA Nymph taper a lot in 5 wt. Very good line. Excellent roll casting, has a long belly and turns the nymphs over good. I have even used it for drys on occasion, just aim a bit higher to avoid a splash down. I also use a SA XPS but not enough time with it yet to really form an opinion but so far so good. The GPX and Rio grand are both used a lot in NZ and will do the job
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Daniel, If this is to be your alround rod for NZ as per your previous post I would go for the FT. I think it will serve you better than then FTL here. You will encounter all sorts of conditions here. Sure you may lose something in finese in some situations, just maybe, but it would not be many. Your previous post asked about 6 wts. I see the FT 6 wt is listed as out of stock on Dan's site an
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I use a 5wt for a lot of my trout fishing in NZ, but you said all round so I would suggest you go with the 6wt. Cheers John
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Steve, Currently my my email is down, can't access it through outlook or directly on the web. Not sure what is going on there but guess NZ Telecom will have it back up and running soon. I will get back to you as soon as possible. Cheers
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Well, I live in New Zealand and recently phoned Stephen and ordered a Revo 13wt 4 pce. It should be arriving next week. Stephen was very carefull to point out the action of the rod and its make up to ensure that I knew what I would be getting if I made the purchase. From this discussion I feel I gained a very good idea about what the blank is like to both cast and fight fish with and therefor
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Jeff, I posted a almost similar question a little while ago, the difference being my blanks are still in their orignal number of pieces! Here is the link. It might help. John
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I do pretty much as Mike does. Rest one end of the mandrel on a table top and turn with one hand and use a file with the other, (I have about 3 different files I use to tke the cork down). Use a Calipher to measure the high and low points and then file so that there is a gradual taper between each of the points. Then go to sandpaper which gives the finish and takes any uneven bits off. Cut a
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I have always thought of it along the lines that Andy said. Siting in my room with all my fishing things/rodbuilding stuff & books doing something is a bit like going fishing when you can't. Its also an environment that sets off fishin daydreams and that is like the real thing until you realise!
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