First attempt at hearts. Liked the look of it as an open wrap. Christmas present for my nine year old daughter.
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My buddy caught this big girl using my 7' medium power rod that was never intended to deal with anything this big. It handled it like a champ. The Penn Captiva 2000 on it blew up the next time he used it, though. That's my 5 year old son in the picture. He's about 4 foot tall so even though I didn't measure the fish before I released it I have a size reference.
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I had a rod that needed repair so I decided to rebuild it myself. This is so simple I'm almost embarrassed to post it but it's good to start at the beginning. I do a lot of fishing off the catwalk for Goliath grouper and the spot where I fish is prone to having people walk off with other's rods. You'd have to be pretty brave to walk off with this. painted the blank flourescent orange and used neo
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Had a few minutes to spare and an Inshore rod looking lonely so I did an abstract thing with it. Just one thread each of three different colors but for me I like the look.
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This is what he wanted...
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If you go make sure you also hit up Get Bit Outdoors. Less than 5 minutes from Mudhole. Neither showroom is overwhelming but it's nice to be able to put your hands on some stuff that you may have wondered about.
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I used to use a nice brush then I mistakenly did not clean it out afterwards. Caught my mistake about3 hours later. Since the epoxy was still rather soft I shaped it so that it formed a spatula type shape with a little cup in it. Now I use it all the time and I am much happier with the results over a brush.
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I pick up lots of old broken rods just by taking a trip down to the fishing peir, pluck the broken rods out of the trash can. I use them for any practice/test wrap and also build reamers etc.
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I have used it on crankbaits, it does a good job. I found it to be a bit of a pain to work with for this but I did see someone on here describe how to spray it with a airbrush kit.
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Just an update, I did what I said and put permagloss over the entire rod (which is epoxied over the entire length of the rod) no ill effects and got rid of all but the deepest of scratches. The rod shines like new. Happy with how it turned out.
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I should have clarified that Bill. I'm not in a rush and neither is the customer. Let the epoxy cure for a week or so, then permagloss it.
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you may be able to rewrap the guide, epoxy the guide wrap enough coats to make it level with the rest of the finish. sand the rest of the rod then put a coat or two of permagloss over the entire length of the rod. This would put a shine on the whole rod and give you a harder more durable finish that will be a bit harder to scratch up without sacrificing the overall look of the rod. That is my pla
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Thanks Bill, that helps.
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Bill, I'm speaking of size 3 or 4 Batson micro guides. Unfortunately I can't make the expo this year. Please tell me what you mean by your statement. I know not all micro guides are the same but how is not stating the manufacturer and size when making a generalized statement confusing? Don't take it the wrong way I'm not saying your wrong, just curious as to the reasons you say this as i'm sure w
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On the permagloss thing, I switched to a make up applicator sponge and it works better for me. Because it soaks up the finish a little I get a few extra seconds of working time yet they are smooth and unlike the paint sponges I get many many uses out of just one of them.
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I agree with Roger.
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I have two rods from a popular (and expensive) factory ,that a customer brought in to be "cleaned up". These things look like they've been run over by a lawnmower. Scratches up the whole length of the rods. I have little doubt that had those same rods been finished with a harder, more durable finish (perma gloss, lumi seal, autoclear, etc) that they would be in much better conditio
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Well said Col. Wish my thoughts would come out that clearly.
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I have big hands and prefer the 16. Maybe I'm strange...
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Bill I don't use the Forhan wrap on anything but micros unless I'm using C.P. never have any guides pull out. My buddy wrapped a rod a few months ago no Forhan wrap and used C.P. , knocked three guides loose on one trip. Rewrapped it the same way, no C.P. Couldn't get them to budge even trying intentionally to get them to come loose.
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There is a brand of permanent marker that won't bleed but I'm having trouble recalling the name (marksa lot??) I have one in the shop but it's too cold to get out of bed. Lol. Black paint pens also work well for me or automotive touch up paint.
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Sorry this is harder from my phone. As for the guide rings I stick with Alconite unless they want something else. I do give the options and try to explain, the best I know how, the differences in ring materials. Some want to keep cost down and stay with alconite some go SiC, it does hae it's advantages even if the advantages don't equal up to the premium you pay for it. I certainly don't have a p
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A little of both Roger, customers perception of what is the best regardless of why they think it is and also what is going to be best for them and the rod they are purchasing. Since I sell mostly rods being used in saltwateror brackish water situations I want to use components that have the best chance of being durable and meeting the customers expectations for the rod they are purchasing. I have
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William click on the library link it's down towards the botyom of the page. David guess we were typing at the same time
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For me balance is more important. A rod that is balanced in your hand will feel lighter than a lighter (weight) rod that isn't balanced when you're actually out there fishing with it.
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For myself I use something mid range. I fish inshore exclusively and have never used titanium framed guides and have never had a frame corrode and fail. I do wash my equipment down everytime I get them home. For a customer I will use the more expensive stuff and see nothing wrong with it. It is a custom rod and they certainly should be getting the best if that's what they are paying me to make. I
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