Basic wrapper, built for under $15 (thanks to Home Depot's Scrap cart!)
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Basic wrapper, built for under $15 (thanks to Home Depot's Scrap cart!)
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Thought I would give magnets a try in place of springs.
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I've always used nib type pens for hand lettering. So far, every time I try out a new "paint" type pen, I just end up using it to puddle a small pool of the paint on a piece of plexi so that I can use it with a nib.
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Back when I was still fairly new to fly-fishing, I was once (by a reputable source) told that in a pinch, the absolute best lubrication for ferrules was to run the male ferrule along the side of your nose to coat it with the "skin oils" there. May sound silly, but it does work...lol
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Check out www.southfloridasharkclub.com It is a site dedicated to fishing large sharks from land.
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If you do a Google search on Papilio Inkjet Waterslide Decal Paper It should have all the info you are looking for, including a step-by-step. ~RO
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I'll second that FishHawk recommendation, it's a great thread to work with. As for the Sewing Store threads, Madiera is probably the most commonly used, with Sulky not far behind, especially for their specialty threads (metallics, holo, etc.,) . These threads are lubricated with silicone which can cause fisheyes, but as long as you do 2 or 3 coats of color preserver before you epoxy, you s
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I know that Mudhole sells it in 30ft rolls. ~RO
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Russ, Madeira puts out a large variety of threads. The most common type used for wrapping is their 40wt Polyneon machine embroidery thread. Any CP should work fine (I've used Cason's water based and Chromaseal with no problems). ~Rich
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If the markings are at all still visible on the syringe, you can lightly score over them with a razor blade and then go over them with a black sharpie. I now use the syringes that Billy mentioned (with the markings molded in). They work great, and as long as there is no cross contamination between bottles they will last forever with just a quick wipe-down after use. The only thing to be
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The Mudhole link in my post above is actually for a heat shrink tubing. Also, if you google a company called Uline, they also carry heat shrink tubing starting at 2" (before shrinking), however there is usually a minimum order with them. ~ RO
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Mudhole has a shrink wrap for protecting grips. It is perforated though, so I don't know if it would be suitable strength wise for doing carbon foams.
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I keep a cloth type tailor's tape in each of my tackle boxes and my fly vest for when I need a fairly accurate measurement. They are inexpensive, take up little room, and can be cut to any length to make more manageable. Also, if you want to measure girth for any reason, it is much easier to do compared to a regular tape measure. As far as measuring marks on a rod, I always wrap a small l
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When it applies to finishes, Urethane is just another term for Polyurethane. ~ RO
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Are you using the Sponsors link? Is working fine for me, with the exception of the "My Store" link on the main page. ~ RO
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Bryce, If you have the lathe, and just want to do cork grips (or EVA), all you really need to get started is a mandrel to mount your cork on, and a selection of sandpaper to shape with.
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Here are some examples of bobbins: Usually they are sized to hold smaller fly tying sized spools of thread, but there are larger ones made for 100yd rod threads as well. ~Rich
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Are you making sure to wrap the top threads in the opposite direction from the bottom threads?
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I picked up the magnets I am using from the "big @#$%& site", but there are also magnet and scientific supply sites that sell them. (K&J is a very good site if you Google them, large selection and lots of info). You just have to make sure that the magnets you get are "axially magnetized", meaning that the magnetic North and South are on the flat ends of the cylinder an
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I've built a few wrappers for myself and others and have always used the spring tension method on them. On the wrapper I am using now, I have recently switched over from springs to repelling magnets. So far, it has worked well for me. I find that the thread comes off a bit smoother, plus, if the thread ever does jump off the spool (as Murphy's Law dictates it eventually will at some point),
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You don't want to use Acetone (and I would advise against the laquer thinners as well) for clean up on the rod itself, as it can damage the finish and potentially the integrity of the blank itself. Alcohol (pref. DNA) is definitely the way to go. ~ Rich
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Another option is to pick up a roll of wainscoting fabric. It would be more expensive than the felt, but is available in many colors, shades, and patterns which would match up well with a bamboo rod display. ~ Rich
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To add to Matthew's reply, on the same page as the Jersey Skins at Mud Hole, there is a chart which matches team colors to Pro Wrap threads.
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I checked out the Vids on the Eco-Wrapper site... looks pretty nice and has some very cool features. I just replaced my old homemade wrapper (which served me well for many years) just a few months ago. I am on a tight budget right now, so I made my new one out of wood I picked up from the cull pile at the local Home Depot. Total cost was about $15, including the hardware. ~ Ri
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To my knowledge, Flex Coat doesn't offer the packets. If you are worried about getting the ratio correct, you can pick up mixing syringes (these come with the 2oz package of FC and are reusable). The syringes make mixing pretty much fool-proof, and the extra minute or two it takes to load the syringes is well worth the money saved on the packaging cost of the individual packets. ~RO
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I have never used it, but while looking through the Janns catalog this morning I happened to notice this: ~RO
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I remember a discussion a while back (think it was here) about the best method to PG to an entire blank. The gist of it was basically that spraying was more trouble than it was worth, and it was recommended to use the white foam triangles used for applying cosmetics rather than a regular bristle or foam brush.
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MIcro Sol is more intended for use on models, where the decal is to be placed over fine details that the modeler would like to show through. It is basically a solvent that gellifies the decal so that it can flow around the details on the surface. You don't need it for applying waterslides to the smooth surface of a rod. There are a number of Decal setting solutions that some folks do lik
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This link may be helpful to you:
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