Tan NCP and Green Madeira bottom with Madeira top and one sac. Goin for a camo look and nailed it.
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White NCP size A with madeira base, one coat lite, 2 coats high build. Madeira with size A sacrificial. CP'd both wraps. The colors shift completely as you tilt the rod
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I use the stuff from Rod Dancer. It is much slicker and easier to clean up than all the others. I've had some interesting moments using U40's. That stuff is sticky and doesn't want to clean up easily. Rod Dancer is by far the best.
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I love threadmaster lite. I've gotten to where I put it on then brush length wise to level, blow large bubbles out with a straw and don't look at it for 30 minutes. I used to get a lot of bubbles because I just messed with it to much. Let the finish do its job and release the bubbles itself.
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I would think that depending on where the grips are you could take it all the way to the first guide. I'm doing one now that has a 16 in wrap in the split and about 8-10 butt wrap depending on guide placement. I'm looking at a lot of hours on this one.
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I have used alcohol to clean sanded wraps before and ended up with a very dull finish. No fish eyes though. I now just wipe them down with a dry cloth or slightly water damp cloth.
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The way MH handles back orders is not very friendly to the buyer. I make it a point to write in the comments section to contact me if any item is not in stock. This has saved me a great deal of head aches and shipping cost. I would normally try and get everything I need from one seller to save on shipping.I have noticed in the last year or so most items they have in stock. I agree though when sel
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I'm with you Scott. I could use some yellow strips or a block.
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All I use now is glue runners. Once you try them you will never use tape again. You can still move the guide around once wrapped and spin it at 100 rpm before wrapping.
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I'm wondering how long the finish over the CP will last. Will it want to chip off several years down the road.
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NCP white works well for me.
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This is the stiff I used. It is super tough and clear.
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If someone has any Fusion polyurathane glue give it a try. I can't find my bottle, but have used it to glue cork to plastic before with great results. It's clear and super strong. The cork gave before the joint failed. If I find my bottle I test it.
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Problem solved. Tom was right, the finish was just to tacky when I first sanded. I have sanded many rods before with no issue, but this one was still soft. I use 150 sand paper. I let it dry overnight and sanded down quite a bit and re finished. No problems.
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Thanks for the quick reply. I had to sand because of a bad spot I have been trying to fix. I have sanded in the same manner the past few days, but it did get colder today. I will let it sit over night and try and work with it in the morning. Might even put a heat lamp on it.
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I just put on my final coat of finish and like I have done before I sanded before hand. This time though I used a fine scotch bright to smooth the smooth it a little more and when I applied finish I could see the sanding stripes still. I quickly wiped the finish off, but now I'm not sure what to do. Is it the scotch bright that messed me up? Time between coats was around 10 hours.
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I got a small air bubble under a decal from Decal Connection that I have already finished over. Since it is in the clear part of the decal can I just cut it out once the finish dries and recoat without having any noticeable edges.
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Well If ya'll think fading is an issue I may scrap the idea. I like the design and it is something I couldn't find in a decal. My two test pieces are looking good. One I cp'd and cut out. Helped with frayed edges. The other I just cut out. I then CP's a scrap piece of blank and stuck the fabric on and CP'd over. It seems to be sticking well. When the cp dries enough I am going to finish and se
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This material is printed, I would guess it is for It is just a thin material probably used for pillow cases or something. I've never done a feather inlay, but will experiment with that method today.
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I have some designs on fabric that I think would look cool on a rod. The material is thin so it will be easy to cover. Has anybody every done this and how would be the best way to secure it before finishing? I have a test piece now that I put some CP on hoping it will make it easier to cut out. What type of adhesive would be best used to attach it to the blank and not bleed out the edges. I would
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Won't be the last time. Happens to everyone.
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I need to do a decal where the name is written vertical. This will be sent to Decal connection. Is there anyway to rotate the letters in MS Word? Or any other way to do it that Decal Connection would accept? Also does anybody know if they print in white lettering?
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Get a glue runner. They work great on guides.
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Are these the blanks they where hanging the 5lb weights and standing them straight up? I've been waiting for them to come out.
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Found it as you where typing. Thanks.
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Mudhole used to sale a maroon and black kevlar handle but I don't see it on the site anymore. I tried calling but they are closed now. Does anybody know if they still carry them? Does anybody have 10 or so inches they want to sell? It would look great on this rod I plan on building.
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I did some business with a guy in Mississippi on the @#$%& site and he saw that I was a rod builder and wants a Mississippi State rod built for trout and red fish by Christmas. I am fine with building it, but I prefer one on one with the client. Not to mention the deadline is tight. By the time I got a blank shipped here and then shipped out to him I'd only have about 2 weeks to do the custom wor
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