#5
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#4
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#3
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#2
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#1 wrap on the 6 dollar Bream Buster pole.
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Built an MHX L904 for lifting Sheepshead from under the pier at Ft. Pickens in Florida.
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A certain unnamed rodbuilder got a Krios to go with the Cowboys baitcaster. Perfect! (Even though they stink.)
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Did a wrap for a Breast Cancer Awareness deal.
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sz. 12mm stripper
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Handle Section - Acrylic winding checks w/Corkalon grips.
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Dec. wrap for a Batson SP844, built for the Barataria Waterway.
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+1 for all posts above, absolutely excellent guides.
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The Peel n Sticks from Debbie are NOT done with inkjet printers, so there is no need to seal them with a fixative. Out of habit, I put on a coat of CP to seal the edges of the decal, but I would guess it's an unnecessary step. And no, I have never had any image lifting problems when removing the cover layer on the peel n stick. If that was a problem, they couldn't do business. Which brings up
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I'm sure I read a post somewhere from Todd Vivian, who said he uses them all the time with no problems. If I'm wrong about that, I'll retract, but I'm sure. I have 4 rods that I use in the Louisiana Saltmarsh a couple times a year, that' not enough fishing for a reasonable critique, but certainly I've had no grooving or corrosion with mine.
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Don't even know where I got it, but I have a .pdf with all the NFL Pantone numbers, listed by team. If you want a copy, just shoot me an email.
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According to my database, NY Giants Pantone numbers are: Blue 2758C, Red 187C, and opaque white. Matches for the Blue are Robison-Anton 9022 Nikko Blue, and Madeira 1843. Red matches are Robison-Anton 9002 Toasty Red, and Madeira 1639.
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All anybody can do is answer your question by relating their own experiences. All I can do is tell you mine. In the last 3 years, I have outfitted 1 kid, and 3 Grandkids with refurbed laptops. All 4 of them are still going strong, even with all the dumb things teenagers do to computers. You get the full warranty after it gets refurbed at the factory, so there's no reason to be leery of them,
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I have a few 40's, don't guess that would help. If you have an account at Merrick, maybe they'd check one for you? That's where I got mine. If you want me to check a 40, let me know.
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Thank God for Redfish and Speckled Trout. If the only way I could catch fish was to spend the day throwing one of those ridiculous contraptions, I'd be playing golf full time. But good luck with it.
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Attending a NERBS deal would be the best, but another option: if you're comfortable working with software on your pc, then you should buy Billy's book, and then a copy of Viswrap software from him. You can put the software into single thread mode, and see any wrap in the archives from first thread to last, one at a time. Invaluable.
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Bill, good attitude, give your idea a try on some scrap and see what you come up with. I will add 1 thing I do. Some of the videos will show preparing the surface with a coat of white paint, it'll make the colors really pop. I do an underwarp with A thread, and seal it with CP before applying the marbling. It's often white, I'm doing a Minn. Vikings color job on an Inshore spinner right now,
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bruce, > You indicated in your post that you could tell the > difference in ring and frame materials. > > So, you are telling me that if you were blind > folded and you were given 2 dozen rods, that you > would be able to tell me what frame and what ring > is on each rod after castin
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One thing on the Dremel. It does work great, but you're using very high rpm's and the wheel can grab and jerk down on you if you don't maintain tight control of the tool. Above all, take your time and let the Dremel do the work.
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I don't have any trouble at all with the micros. I tie a uni-knot around the blank with 4# mono. Hold the guide in the general location for it and slip the foot under the mono loop and then tighten it down, very snug. The guide can still be moved into position with the mono down tight, and you have plenty of room to start the wrap up and over the guide foot before carefully trimming the knot o
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Here it is, laid out in Visual Wrap:
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Bill's question is applicable. You say you're a beginner, which is fine. You don't say if you placed the guides in proper relation to the spine, or if you went with the straightest axis, or if you bothered with any of that. A bit more info, please.
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I wouldn't presume to tell you anything other than what's in Mr. Kirkman's book, but I would emphasize 1 thing. Buy the syringes and carefully measure your finishing epoxy when you mix it up. You take a risk on screwing it up if you try to eyeball it.
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The best deals, by far, on water slide paper for inkjet are on that well know internet @#$%& site that shall not be named here.
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Jeff Davis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't think there is a problem, if you buy the > logo / decal, since your paying them for it. ? > Teams sell the decals. That's what I assume they > are for, to put on things. > Jeff That's my thinking on the subject. Mud Hole sells college logos for that exact purpose. So those are licensed
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