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Black and Red Spider My first wrap. ever.
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My second wrap. Ever. Starting to get the hang of it...
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Linemaster Variable speed AC foot control
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i've found that packing the cross points before and after the point i'm trying to pack also helps keep the threads tighter and in line
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Thanks!
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Thanks Tom. I am not totally afraid of cutting the blank, just not sure which one to go with. If I get the Jr. and take most off of the butt and some off tip, does it end up having the same action as a full Boomer? I dont know... and that is what has me thinking... Hoping someone on here has built something similar to this and can chime in with their decision making process and result... Than
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I'm thinking of building a short bent butt tuna rod, and cant decide on a blank. I was strongly considering the Calstar Boomer Jr. and Baja Boomer and cutting them down to make a 5' overall rod. The idea of having to cut the blank so significantly to fit the unibutt is somewhat unappealing, although i know it can be done. I also saw that a few companies offer 4' blanks that are meant for th
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if you try the syringe and needle, get a larger gauge needle, like a 18 or 16 or larger (smaller number), and the smallest diameter syringe you can find, like the 3mL ones. The smaller diameter the syringe, the easier it is. i agree on the lowest viscosity epoxy you can find, 60 minute, and if you can thin it, that will help more... you are a wizard with the contact cement and the EVA, so i a
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Straight from Laurie at AA Guides... Our conventional roller guides knot clearance is not as large as Aftco Wind On series. Our conventional roller guides knot clearance is larger than their Heavy Duty series. Our spiral roller guides knot clearance is comperable to their Wind On Series. and Our conventional & spiral roller tips knot clearance is larger than their roller tips.
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shot them an email directly. thanks. was looking for thoughts from guys that have used both sets and had hands on feedback.
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Considering building a standup rod with a short bent butt on a Boomer Jr. to pair with another Penn 70 and wind-on leaders. Are the clearances in the AA Rollers equivalent to the Aftco Wind-Ons, in the event I want to run an inline swivel or some other rigging?
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This was a 60-100lb 6-foot bent butt with a Penn 70VS spooled with 1000 yds of 130lb spectra and mono. At least she took that and not the Penn 30 with the dink ballyhoo. The blue marlin was +350lbs. Pulled the hook after the initial run when she greyhounded across and put a nice belly in the line because of the 6-8 foot swells... awesome and heartbreaking at the same time
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if you are going to grease the drags, make sure you use grease that is meant for it. most greases will clump, degrade, and get sticky with enough friction and heat in a drag. my recommendation is to use Cal's Drag Grease
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yeah, unitbutt. i think you hit the nail on the head. leave the battle scar and deal with it if/when it becomes a real problem. chances are it wont make a big difference anyway. just throw some finish on it to seal it up and preserve.
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Under normal circumstances, I would go with the opportunity to replace the rod... adding insult to injury, this was one of the two brand new rods on the boat...ouch. Its a 6 foot all roller rod with the Aftco Big Foot guides. To cut the tip at the score and move the tip top down, I get into having to remove or relocate the next guide, since the tubes on those roller tips are about 2" lon
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Was marlin trolling this weekend in 6-8 footers, and at some point, one of the baits must have jumped out of a swell, resulting in the line wrapping around the tip of the blank, below the tiptop guide. Normally not a big deal, unless thats the rod that gets hammered by the blue marlin before we realized its wrapped. Long story short, on the initial run, the line scored scored the blank, burning t
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[] silver ones all the way at the bottom... hopefully that will cut it?
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Buy Billy V's book. Its like paint-by-number.
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no avet in levelwind. look at penn 975/975ld or shimano calcutta i use a lot of braid and only 1 of my reels is levelwind.
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I would go to a GOOD tackle shop, someone that specializes in offshore tackle, maybe even the deepwater swordfishing that goes on in Florida there, and have them set you up with a good harness in the store, and try it out. Mention Smitty Belts, Black Magic, or OTR. Braid Powerplay and Aftco Maxforce are ok too. Get strapped in in the shop, have him give you a 7' 80lb rod with a solid 30 or 50 cla
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For bait fishing, a conventional will be better. For jigging, you can go either way. If it is just bottom bouncing, either conv. or spinning will do fine. if its the high speed vertical jigging, or if you cast, you'll be happier with a spinning setup. Without getting too personal, which part of the fishing do you need to make easier? is it the hand position when cranking on the reel, work
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Assuming you want to go the spinning route, the Shimano Saragosa reels are solid for 1/4 the price of a Stella. For a rod, you've got a wide range of options... Are you looking for a factory rod, or a blank to build on? A conventional reel with a good harness can make even an 80-wide easy to handle. I recommend the Smitty Spyder Harness or the OTR (Ocean Tackle Research) Harness, and a g
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i've been looking for options to upgrade my thread carriage on the CPW. can someone point me in the direction of where to fine this @#$%& carriage or any other options? thanks
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WD-40 removes adhesive like its its job... o wait.. it is... clean up with citrus degreaser or simple green...
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definitely need to be using heavier guides. depending on your leader, you might be able to get away with something like the AT Virtus Lites, but if you plan on fishing 65lb braid with 20lbs of drag, go with the Heavys or equivalent.
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EVA will stretch quite a bit, esp. when lubricated with epoxy. ive gone about 30." seems like it will stretch up to 1/4" larger than the initial ID. you can heat the grip a number of ways if its really tight, this will soften and let it stretch further. microwave with a damp towel, or heat from inside out with heat gun.
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take the belt off of the motor pulley, twist it 180 degrees, and reinstall. want the belt to look like a figure 8 around the pulleys instead of a loop. it will change the direction of the chuck.
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