Another vote for the mnsg. Could also go kwsg
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Anyone have a good source for hard eva?
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Just a heads up the pac bay orange isn't really a true orange. Been down that road before.
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I've got a bunch of them. I'm on LBI
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I use nitrile gloves too when getting in deep with epoxy especially carbon grips. Never had a problem.
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Contact St. Coix they'll tell you. It is either the BSVOG from fuji or the similar from batson. They've been using a lot of batson lately so maybe the latter.
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There's lots of options. I've used all of the following with good results: testors paint, pigments available in hardware stores usually near the fiberglass supplies, finely ground chalk, juice from paint pens, and of course the dry powder and wet pigments available from rob building supplies around. I'm sure there's other souces like spray paint cans but never tried it. What I like about
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Tom, which issue was is?
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Use thread!!!!
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It's a shrink wrap that is similar to the popular x-shrink aka x-flock. The jap shrink doesn't have the x pattern, all of it I've used is slightly thinner than most x-shrink. The jap shrink is my go to when the x pattern is not wanted and when quick grip is too heavy or thick for the task.
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I'd go with Calstar RT50 and RT80 blanks, the 6.5' versions and trim if need be. Winthrop rollers would ice the cake!
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Jim is on it. Bktag. Meaning b for black, kt frame with a for alconite ring, g for guide Tktag would be ti guide
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You've got lots of options. Look at the Seekers gts70h and stcroix 2m69xhf both very different blanks but both great ocean fluke/striper rods. It's up to you but I would stay away from an aluminum seat.
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Looks like ole miss shares the same colors of our flag: red(pw:319/325), white (pw:807) and blue (pw:446). Those are the Prowrap color #'s I'd use.
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If time is of the essence and you can't wrap/coat reach for tape and get it done. I've taped on guide and fished them with great results. I've helped customers who were in a rush to hit a hot bite but had a broken guide or two this way too. I first tape the guide on snug with thin green masking tape then I'll electrical tape over. It'll get you by for the time being. I wouldn't attempt super g
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Personally I would trim the end back (on the lathe with d thread) so it's a clean cut. I'd then either find the perfect rubber hostle or metal trim or make an epoxy ramp.
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Full length
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Just built two with Aftco bent buts and Winthrops. They put a serious beating on the bluefin in north carolina this past march. Here's short video of them in action...
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Try your best to get a two piece rod blank. It you really need to mod your existing blank I would say spigot
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I love TM!... I whip it up to a frothy mix (full of bubbles) and then put it on the wraps quick, let it turn and then go back to hit any spots that need small touch ups. Then I hit each with a fast moving torch... Bubbles Gone and a great time to wick away excess finish. IMO TM has a much shorter pot life than a number of other finishes I use and I like it. It does exactly what I want it to do.
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Bill, it would be best to teach/infom the customer how to properly use/handle a fishing rod to prevent angler abuse/misuse. It with be a major plus for both you and the angler. This way you get the difficult issue of getting a loomis blank which more than likely is impossible to find out of the way. As far as the gts70L, I have built a number of them for anglers, all of whom love them. Great
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I use testors in rod bond all the time. Never had an issue with setup. I think it's just as strong but maybe some one that really knows will chime in. I've tested. Tinted rod bond and glued up wooden sticks as well as scrap blank inside of blank just to test and I could tell the difference. Both were just as super strong.
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I know your question was addressed to Billy V. but I figured I'd put my 2 cents in since it has been almost 5hr and I'm sure you could use some info (since u asked the question). I've built a number of seeker jiggers so I have some experience with them if you are looking for more specifics let me know.. set up your rear to match you and your fishing style. you want to be comfortable both worki
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Adam, If you called and left a message Rich will get back to you. Be patient. He has alot going on right now. If you want you can email me you contact information and I can forward it to him. I'm a dealer so we talk often. fishhead.greg@gmail.com
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Thanks Billy. An email will be sent soon.
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I am looking for some help finding some Fuji HNSG's in size 10 and 12 Please send an email to fishhead.greg@gmail.com if you can help Thanks
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I bite my finger nails so that one is out for me. I use some light heat from an alcohol burner and use a plastic thread burnishing tool. The plastic tool will get beat up and worn out with use but it will not scratch the blank. Give it a try.
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"I gave a coat of CP over a NCP Black thread, (just 1 light coat) then epoxied, after the epoxy dried the black had a very faint grey tinge.......totally bewildered why.?? any thoughts.??....." Owen, What brand type of CP are you using? I have a feeling you are using a milky CP (like flexcoat) Like Todd said, Try using a clear color preserver like Cason's Crystal Clear CP.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Greg, > That is fine to mix the K and the MN, but doesn't > that somewhat defeat the purpose of using the K > guides in the first place. i.e. using the double > sided, angled K guides to shed loops and wind > knots from the guides? > > Roger I guess it does up in the tip section
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"mixing K's with SV doesn't look right" I have built a number of rods with a combo of KWSG's and MNSG's and they look great better yet they perform great too. On my first K build I spent a lot of time setting up the guide placement (tweaking and test casting, over and over again). The K's in the smaller ring size have longer feet tip to tip and I thought/saw that the natural bend of
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