I used the high build. It wouldn`t penetrate the wraps properly before it started stiffening. (I used all advises including heating the epoxy). Because I want to be accurate, not fast I`m looking for a slower setting epoxy type. Any suggestion?

I guess the lite version will penetrate more easily?


How does the u 40 products act compared to the Flex Coat products when it comes to curing?

Would it be ok to use varnish as a first coat for quick penetration and then cover with epoxy?

Thank you!

-Harald-

First, are you using syringes to get exact mixing?

Secondly, you do NOT want to heat the epoxy until AFTER it is on the wraps, if at all! Heat accelerates the cure speed.

What has worked well for me is to put a ceramic tile in the freezer. When it is ice cold, pull it out, and put aluminum foil over it. Mix your flex coat for one minute, then spread thin on the frozen tile.

Your flex coat will last a long time this way! It will actually be a little thick from the cold, but then as you put it on, it thins out, and really penetrates well. GREAT method! Give it a shot.

IF not, the Lite version seemed OK to me, but you will have to use two coats. to get decent coverage, but it will be FLAT. Might be more what you want.

Hope this helps.

TH

You are moving too slowly. If you take many minutes on each guide it will certainly stiffen up on you before you are done. Either move more quickly or mix up one batch for the butt area guides and after those are done mix up another for the tip area guides.

I have found that the LS Supreme seems to have about twice the pot life of Flex Coat.

Harald, I like to use the Classic Coat finish. This takes a long time to set up. In fact the rod needs to turn for several hours. I like to go with 4 to 6 hours. One thing I like to do prior to putting on my epoxy is to coat the wraps with Gudebrod rod varnish. This stuff is self leveling and acts almost as a color preserver. It is very thin and penetrates the wraps very quickly and is compatable with the several finishes I have used over it. I am relatively new to rod building and I have found this to work the best for me. David A Tomasch

David, Using rod varnish instead of CP is exactly what I have gone back to doing. One coat really penetrates and seals well.

Thank you all for all the goo advices.

It makes my confidence grow before my next project!

Crystal Coat from Clemens is a very thin finish that works very well and has a long pot life. You might give it a try.

Hugh Miller

We've found that it helps to use a very lite first coat with the flex coat high build then the second coat will be the high build one. Also if you need more working time you can mix a small amount of acetone to the epoxy causing it to thin out. You may try to work faster and maybe smaller sections. Hope this helps.

Tightlines,
Reeldoctor