I'm planning on making my one-piece XRA1083 surf rod into a 2-piece rod by making my own ferrule. So I ordered some back-issues of RodMaker magazine, and I've read and re-read Ralph O'Quinn's article on making ferrules (vol 4, #4) about ten times. But I still have some questions!

(1) The article says the two pieces joined by the ferrule "should have about 1/4 inch between them. This space will be reduced to about 1/8 inch later." First, what is the origin of the 1/4 inch gap? Why wouldn't the two pices fit together snugly? Second, how is the gap reduced later--am I supposed to taper the male end that fits into the ferrule? I'm confused.

(2) Since I can't buy a duplicate blank to make ferrules (it's graphite anyway), I'm hoping to buy an el-cheapo fiberglass blank that will have the right taper. So my question is: how 'heavy' a fiberglass blank should I get? Do I want a blank with a similar butt/tip diameter as my rod, or with similar power as my rod?

Any and all help will be GREATLY appreciated!

Hi Tom,
Your surf rod you plan on making into a two piece rod are there guides on it already? If so then you can't do what the article says. You will have to take the guides off first so you can slip your ferrule over the blank down to were you will be cutting the blank. If you would like to call me I may be able to help you with your questions. Go to the Sponsor that says Neal's Fishing Tackle which will take you to my webpage and you can get our phone number I live in Az. and we start answering our phones at 9 AM?
Look Forward in helping,
Neal Cissel

Neal
Obviously you didn't read the article. I went into a very lengthy step by step description of just exactly how to do that very thing when the guides are on the rod --- and you don't have to take the guides off. I suggest that you obtain a copy of the article in question and read it.

Tom -- The answer to your questions are
1. The 1/4 gap is merely the space that you create when making the ferrule. You don't want the pieces touching as this will prevent them from fitting snugly each time they are assembled. Some wear is inevitable and you must leave a tiny space to accomodate the wear. Start out with ABOUT a 1/4", as you progress on fitting the ferrule, this space will reduce itself to about half that, and must remain for the life of the rod. If wear is extreme and the pieces begin to touch, remove about 1/8" from the male section so that there is a gap between them when they fit snugly. There is no need to taper the male end, you will drastically weaken the ferrule joint if you attempt to taper it.

2. You run a great risk in buying a suitable blank for this job. You will need to purchase a fiberglass blank with exactly the same taper as your graphite rod, and for that task you would best contact the manufacturer of your graphite rod and ask his input on what he has that would do the job. People who do ferrules, repairs and such nonsense are avid collecters of junk rods wherein they are able to find just the right piece, in their boxes of junk, for a job like yours. You will need a piece of heavy(thick) wall section, which will come from a fiberglass blank of similar power to your graphite piece. It will not have a similar butt/tip diameter, it will be much heavier in both the butt and tip.
Ralph

Ralph,
Thanks for the reply.
The second part of your reply really makes me worry. How about this: when shopping for an 'el-cheapo' blank that can be used for a ferrule, I'll take along a micrometer and tape measure and actually measure the taper of fiberglass ferrule candidates until I find one that matches the measured taper of my graphite blank. Do you think this will work? Or, honestly, do you think I'm better off scrapping the whole idea?

Ralph,
I just got done reading your article and I am sorry for my mistake.
Neal

Tom,

Cheapo dime store blanks/rods may at first seem like good repair or ferrule stock. Sometimes they are, but there are better volunteers.

Years ago I came across a stash of old and damaged surf and saltwater rods. These were comprised of Shakespeare "Howald Process" rods, Garci 5-Star Conolon and a handful of Sear's Ted Williams (Shakespeare and older Daiwa models) rods. The pieces I have obtained from these are usually fairly heavy walled and tough. They have made some great ferrules and plugs. Much better than what I have found in the cheapo $19.95 fiberglass rods of recent history. Check your local yard sales for these type rods. They make great donor stock for what you want to do.

At first it seems odd to use such old fiberglass pieces in a modern day rod of modern day materials, But we have to remember the relationship between diameter and wall thickness in terms of stiffness and strength. Using the same material for plugs, splices sleeves and ferrules, that our rod is made from will result in some very drastic changes in strength and stiffness due to the differences in wall thickness and diameter of our add-on pieces.

By using fiberglass we attempt to keep some continuity of strength and flex in the rod. Careful selection of your donor pieces has a great deal to do with how sucessful your repair or ferrule job will be. I know the articles Ralph wrote for the magazine seem tiring and mundane to many who see little glamor in doing these type things, but there is a wealth of great technical info in there that anyone interested in repair or ferrule making needs to keep on hand.

I wish you success. With some patience and care, you can do exactly what you want to do. But do keep in mind that the process is fairly involved if you expect really good results.

...........

Tom (Juster that is)
Heed Tom Kirkman's advice. Don't try to match an el cheapo blank by measuring the taper. You cannot possibly come even close to what is needed and it will be a waste of money unless you are very lucky and accidentally purchase the right one. Try canvassing some local tackle shops that build and repair rods, tell them your problem and see if one of them can come up with a piece of scrap that will do the job. The only problem is --- you must cut the blank into two pieces in order to fit the piece you are using for the ferrule. Once you cut the blank you are committed. You will never fit a ferrule until you cut the blank --- talk about catch 22. If you are really serious about the project, cut the blank ---- now you really have an incentive to find a piece for the ferrule. Another word of warning-- if this is your first attempt at making a ferrule, expect to make lots of errors in measurement and judgement. It would be wise to practise on a lesser model just to gain experience and knowledge before tackling your surf rod.
Ralph

......if it doesn't work, you can always drop back and punt with a metal ferrule. All is not lost if your custom ferrule doesn't come out right.