I just finished a 7' Eglass boat rod, gloss black, with a simple diamond butt wrap. After the 3rd coat of Flex Coat hi build I notice a sort of cloudy appearance under bright light or in the sunlight. I did a search of this board and found where someone said that using a soda straw to blow on the finish to remove bubbles could cause "micro bubbles" in the finish, but that heat would remove them. I did use the straw and it seemed to take out all the bubbles but I noticed that as I blew on the wrap, I could see moisture from my breath condensing on the wrap, but quickly disappearing. I even gave it a good shot with the propane torch afterwards. Under a magnifying glass, it does look like I have a gazillion little bubbles in the finish.

So my question is, living on the MS gulf coast where it is always humid anyway, is using the straw method to remove bubbles what caused this due to the moisture in my breath, or is it just the high humidity, or something else? And I suppose the only way to fix this would be to sand it enough to get down to clear finish, which would be extremely difficult without messing up the threads? Any thoughts appreciated. And no crawfish were being cooked nearby either, Bill Nelson!

Jim

Black thread + Flexcoat CP = Milky Way

Just call it the Outer Space Finish!

Never Never Never use CP that has white solids on black thread.

Gon Fishn

Now do you see anything in my post about using CP? The only place I used CP was on the intersection points and that is not where the problem is. Are you saying that just putting CP anywhere on the butt wrap will cause this? I waited about 2 hours after putting on the CP before putting on the first coat. I also have this problem on the first guide, but just in one little spot on top about ½" long and ¼" wide, and no CP at all was used on the guides. What'cha think now Bill?

Jim,
Your particular problem has nothing to do with color preserver. You have used our color preserver exactly as it should be used.

Micro bubbles in the epoxy is another story. Applying epoxy in multiple coats is the right thing to do too. The first coat of epoxy should be brushed on thin just sealing the thread, no thicker than to the top of the thread ridges. This can be done with Flex Coat high build or Flex Coat Lite, which ever a builder prefers. Keeping this first coat thin all the air can escape through the threads and through the epoxy and disperse completely. Care should be taken to heat the Flex Coat slightly ( torch it ), about 45 minutes from the time it was first applied so that the surface tension is fluid enough and all the air ( bubbles ) escape through the finish. I might add that the best results are accomplished by doing all the above in a room temperature of 70 degrees or warmer and using Flex Coat that is not to cold. Flex Coat can be warmed by zapping the resin, (after it has been measured into your mixing cup), in a micro wave for about 2 to 4 seconds then measure and add the hardener to your mixing cup.

By taking extra care in the first hour to two hours of applying Flex Coat you can have a finish free of bubbles. Take the same care with each additional coat and you should not have a problem with micro bubbles in your epoxy.

Good Wraps to all,
John Anderson
Flex Coat Company, Inc.

Your problem was the torch. You boiled the finish and created millions of micro bubbles in the process.

I have used Flex Coat color preserver on black and dark blue thread and never had any haze or cloudiness.

Authur,
Very good point!!

One should never overheat anything that has to do with rod building.

Thanks for adding that important note.
John Anderson

Thanks Arthur, I think you may be dead on with this one. I do remember almost burning my hand, while holding it behind the blank to guage the heat, when I got careless with the torch, due to an unexpected distraction which I can't describe on this board, and noticed the finish seemed to be almost runny as it turned on the 4 rpm dryer. I never thought about boiling the finish but I'm convinced that is exactly what I did.

At least I can learn from this mistake, that only I will know about, since this rod is going to be for persona use to catch some nice red snapper and lemonfish at the rigs this spring!

Jim

I think the torch was your problem. I have been using a torch for years so I no longer burn my blistered hands. Another trick is to heat just below the wrap not directly on to the wrap. You just want to warm the finish not heat it. My flam is about 10 inches from my work
Good Wraps Bob

I've seen a lot of posts about flaming ot torching finish to get bubbles to release. I can picture propane torches with the big metal bottles and a 2 inch flame coming out of the torch tip. TOO MUCH TORCH!! Go to Radio Shack and get yourself a cordless soldering tool. These are refillable (butane) and come with a small torch tip that produces a very small, very adjustable, very pinpoint flame that is just right for rodbuilding heating chores. It's also nice because you can see amount of fuel that is in the torch. Other brands are Weller Porta-sol, and one sold at lowes. I have both the Porta-sol and the Radio Shack units, and like the R. S. one better. You won't burn your rod in half with one of these!

I also use the Radio Shack butane torch. It does a great job on removing bubbles with it's adjustable flame.

Thanks guys, I know that's exactly what happened now that I have thought about it so I learned from this mistake and won't use that flame thrower propane torch again. The small ones you recommend sound like the answer so I'll give them a try. Thanks again for your input.

Jim

Mr. Anderson - Would you care to comment on Flexcoat Color Preserver and Black Thread. Roger Seider has always said this is a no no. Jim's problem probably was not the CP due to limited use.
I think the milky way cloud with CP on Black is even smaller particles than the micro bubbles referred to in the above posts.

Sorry Jim

Gon fishn