because it`s to big. I also need to remove the cork because of this.

Any suggestion on how to solve this problem with a good result?

It really depends on how the seat was mounted to begin with. Heat may break the bond on it and the cork. I have heard of using a heat gun or hair dryer set on high to break the bond. I have also heard of putting the assembly into a pan of boiling water to break the bond.

If you don't mind destroying the seat you can cut it off by spiral cutting with a hack saw and then twisting or prying it open and popping it off the rod. The cork can be cut off or just turned down and the replacment installed right on top.

These are just some ideas and I am sure there will be some others.

Someone I know that is an expert in reel seat repair may join in here, but the heat gun or blow dryer is the best bet for loosening the seat .
The cork will be removed generally by cutting it out and the careful use of a blade. Takes a bit of time, and paying attention to safety.

Rich
Solyrich Custom Rods

Harald various ways of removing the seat,in order to get the best info on how to do so it will be necessary to submit some more info as to type of rod, boat, spin, light, heavy ,fly, blank material etc.The best way to do the job will vary depending on the additional info for example if after removing the cork you should now have a good idea about how much clearance there is between the reel seat and the blank,now you can decide if you have enough clearance to power cut it off or to very carefully cut it with a hacksaw.I use a heat gun in most cases to remove the seat but certain blanks, shakespear for example are highly suspectable to heat damage. Try to provide a little more info and we will try to help
John

At the risk of going against the predominant grain again, I would advise against the use of heat.

It takes very little time with a fine tooth metal cutting hacksaw blade to remove an aluminum seat. Mike's cutting method is the one that I have always used on all types of seats graphite, brass and aluminum. Cut it like a spiral cut ham. When you finish, gently pry it open with a screwdriver and peel it off.

Cork is just as easy to remove with a sturdy knife, if you are careful and don't get carried away. Make sure it is very sharp. Shave the cork down to the blank and then remove the excess by scraping or sanding.

Heat is a tricky thing to control. You can't actually 'see' if the heat has weakened the blank or not.

Which is why I said that I like to see how much clearance there is between the blank and the seat, both methods can damage a blank and has been stated you must work carefully.One idea that is always useful is pick up some cheap rods damaged or broken from flea markets tackle stores etc and try to remove the seats on them,find a way that works for you and go at it. A little experience goes a long way when attempting a serious project
John

I soak the handle in boiling water (sometimes it takes along time). Seems to work without damaging the blank. But then there are different resins on the market in use. Daren't use a heat gun as the temp can be higher than boiling water.

If the handle is custom glued on using slow curing epoxy, boiling water won't work. If rapid curing epoxy (5 min) is used, it is more susceptible to heat and probably will work.

Many variables. But if you just want to remove and change the seat, cut it off in a spiral.