I am a hobby builder currently working on my 4th fly rod. I have been using a commercially sold reamer made out a scrap piece of blank coated with an abrasive. While this works okay, it has just about seen the end of its usefullness since much of the abrasive has worn off. I was wondering what some of the more experienced and/or commercial rod builders use for this job. I've considered a coarse rat tail file, but I want to see what you folks use before I get ready for my next rod.

Thanks inadvance for your input.

Jim Smith

I make my own reamers using 1/2" abrasive backed paper rolls. (Many sponsors sell these rolls) I start by selecting scrap pieces of thick walled fiberglass blanks. These scrap pieces are sometimes given away by manufactures (I know Sharon at Allstar has done this numerous times). I then use U-40 Rodbond to adhere the abrasive strip to the blank in a spiral fashion. It helps to wrap the abrasive around the blank before you apply the epoxy so that it takes on a spiral shape. I just use masking tape to secure the ends of the paper down. The epoxy will keep them stuck to the blank with no problems. After the adhesive is secured, I use appropriately sized old drill bits and epoxy them half way into the end of the blank giving me a secure shaft to mount the reamer in a hand drill or in my lathe. When using this type of reamer you need to spin your drill in the opposite direction of the paper spiral. Otherwise, the reamer will screw into the cork and might break the grip. I usually use these reamers with a cordless hand drill so I can ream my cork right over a trash can. It is fast, easy and nearly effortless.

Jeff - Platte River Rods

May sound funny but try a rat tailed bastard file in a cordless drill for reaming. Much faster!

Wire brushes turned by a lathe. Start with the next size up from the pilot hole and just increase a little at a time until you have the right diameter. Takes about 3 minutes.

I've used the reamers and files for reaming, they work but not very good. I have the best luck using drill bits chucked into my rod lathe. Just use progressive sizes stepping up gradually until you have a good fit. If bit is too short to drill entire length just turn cork around. Works fast, bored perfectly round and centered, no run out, difficult to do with reamers and files. In addition to being more accurate and a great fit, just takes a couple of minutes.

You just can't beat the adhesive belts made for hobby sanders. They are about 3/4 in width and wrap nicely around the reamer blank. Leave about 1/4" between wraps for removing residue. Use expoxy to glue the stip to the blank. Twist tight and hold in place with rubber bands until dry. Not messy and the grit does not wear off.

Two things to make any reamer better. Leave the top 2" free. This serves as a pilot to keep your reamer running straight. Put a handle on the other end. Much easier to twist it.

Yea, but be sure to run it in reverse, or you will screww the rat tail into the piece. Also, cut off the rat tail for chucking.

Anglers workshop used to sell Aluminum oxide grit. coat the rod blank with epoxy and roll the blank in the grit. this can be done over and over.