First time rod builder here.

I built my first rod for my son last week for his birthday and it came out awesome. The thread epoxy is nice and wavy and uneven but it still looks awesome. I still have my first fishing rod my dad got me and I hope my little man will have this one.

Now I'm building a rod for me. I put the first round of epoxy on deciding to try the multiple thin coats approach. I did that on Wednesday night assuming I'd be able to reapply again on Thursday night. Thursday I got sick. Really sick. I'm still sick and will miss church tomorrow but I'm on the mend.

What is the definitive process for applying epoxy 48 hours or longer after the first coat? Does the existing epoxy need to be prepped in any way or can I just apply the next coat right on top like normal ?

Thanks,

Frank

Typically you can apply subsequent coats after a 24 hour drying period. No prepping needed, though you may want to ensure there is no dust on the hardened epoxy. Sometimes I wait 48 hours after the first coat, and if it is multiple days pass between coats it does not matter.

Did you rotate the rod during the first 4 or 5 hours of drying, or do you have a rod drying/rotating machine?

It is important to make sure you use an exact 50/50 mix in your epoxy. Mix it in a mixing cup that does not contain silcone. And use a mixing stick that is not wood if possible. Mix until nice and clear. Let set for a couple of minutes. Then pour the mix into an aluminum epoxy tray or into a small mixing tray you make from aluminum foil. To remove any tiny bubbles that remain you can breathe warm air from your mouth onto the epoxy or heat very quickly with a heat gun from above. In the mixing cup, you have the option to thin the mix with a few drops of denatured alcohol or even Isopropyl alcohol. If you add that into the mixing up, you must mix until the epoxy is clear and without bubbles.

Apply with clean brush or spatula tool. No need to put on super thin coats. You can put on a decent amount and spread it out. The epoxy is self leveling, so application need not be perfect. You can go over the applied epoxy with a heat gun or alcohol flame tool to extract any small bubbles. You need to turn the blank frequently so the epoxy does not flow to the low side. After 3 or 4 hours of turning every 15 minutes or so, if possible, it will have set up enough to not sag. But turn later some more if you want.

If you have large bumps or bumps from thread ends in the epoxy, you can slice them off with a very sharp razor blade. Don't go deep enough to slice or abrade the thread wraps. Apply second coat,

If you do a third coat follow the same procedure. After two coats if your epoxy is very uneven or bumpy, you can sand down uneven spots carefully with a fine grit sandpaper. Blow off any particles. It will look rough or abraded in the sanded areas. That's fine. The final coat of epoxy will fill that in and it will look smooth and clear.

Some rod makers use one thick coat of epoxy and that's it. Many use two coats. A good percentage like 3 thinner coats. I tend to fall in the latter group. Certainly no more than three thin coats are needed.

It will take you 5-10 rods to really get the epoxy process down. Also, make sure the steady your brushing hand on the taple top or steady it with your other hand to ensure a still and precise application.

Frank,
Buy some jewelry polishing papers. This is not sand paper.

[www.esslinger.com]

Cut off a strip about 3/8" wide and take the gloss off the wrap. I would try the pink paper.
You do not want to nick the thread wrap - so, go easy.
Herb
CTS

Frank,
Double post
Herb
CTS



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/24/2024 12:02AM by Herb Ladenheim.

It would be a good idea to read "Perfect Thread Epoxy-It's Routine" in the Library, click on the task bar above.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Frank Petroczky Wrote:
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> First time rod builder here.

>.... or can I just apply the next coat right on top like normal ?

I think you will be fine just applying another coat.
I have done plenty of repairs on rods where I would give the existing thread work another coat of epoxy with no problems.
The only prep was to clean the rod.

"The only prep was to clean the rod."

Chris, I think some detail on this should be given. Some might take this to mean clean with alcohol, and many do not recommend using any fluid for clean up. I just wipe with dry lint free paper towel and blow on it to make sure no dust is on it. If no sanding has been done, I'm not sure why clean up would even be necessary. Please give some details on your recommendation. thanks

Frank, Forty eight hrs, forty eight days, or forty eight yrs. don't matter as long as your going over an epoxy intended for rod building you'll have no problems.
As far as coats go, I would suggest a water resistant down filled hooded parka. More than one coat on would be uncomfortable to fish with. I'll bet the boy's down in Florida don't wear any!

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> "The only prep was to clean the rod."
>
> Chris, I think some detail on this should be
> given. Some might take this to mean clean with
> alcohol, and many do not recommend using any fluid
> for clean up. I just wipe with dry lint free
> paper towel and blow on it to make sure no dust is
> on it. If no sanding has been done, I'm not sure
> why clean up would even be necessary. Please give
> some details on your recommendation. thanks

OK...what I was meaning was this.
I will get an old rod that needs a guide or two.
I would just clean the rod with soap/water and paper towel.
I would replace the broke guides and put on a coat of finish (on the new guides).
Once that one coat cured....then add another coat to ALL the guides. I figure why not...no need to waist the left over epoxy?

So...In a nutshell....here is a case where I'm putting epoxy on (sometimes) really old finish.
I know this stands the test of time...because many times its a rod I own.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/24/2024 11:13AM by Chris Catignani.

Michael, clean up isn't necessary if you're applying finish over the already finished wraps on an old used fishing rod? It would be silly not to clean the rod in that situation.

As far as not using alcohol to clean a rod and then applying finish over it. I certainly won't say that doing so has never caused anyone any problems, but it's never caused me any problems. I use isopropyl alcohol all the time to clean a rod before applying finish, and I've never even had the hint of a fish eye or any other malady that could before guide finish.

I will say that I only use isopropyl alcohol that is 90% or higher though. The lower percentage alcohols have a perfume smell too them. I equate that smell with contaminants that may be in it, so I go for the highest percentage I can get.

Like I said, never a problem, and I have applied finish over wraps that had been previously soaked with isopropyl alcohol so I could get an idea of what the color would look like, before applying finish.

Anyhow ..... I dang sure would be cleaning with something more than just a dry lint free cloth.

Herb - Your response is part of the reason I asked the question of surface prep. I've seen others recommend what you're saying. I realized, after publishing my post, that I applied such a small amount of epoxy that the threads are showing so any sanding is out of the question at this stage. That is a great resource you linked.

Michael - That write-up was one of the first things I stumbled on after I found this forum. I'm very process focused and the more rods I build the better I will be able to build a process for myself.

Another great article I found is the following:
"A Better Epoxy Finish - The particular finish you use isn’t nearly is important as how you use it! Follow these few simple steps and enjoy better results from your next finishing job." Of course the timing could have been a little better for me.

David - I do have a rod dryer and I apply epoxy using it and just walk away when I'm done. I leave my foil lined paper plate on the table and check that to see if it is cured or not. I also found using a straw to get the bubbles out works very well for me. Great advice and concisely written. It's just a matter of establishing a streamlined and repeatable process. Meanwhile I'll enjoy the journey.

Chris - I'm quite particular about my work environment and cleanliness doesn't get overlooked.

Dennis - I'm still laughing. Last year on my annual muskie trip to northern Wisconsin it was cold enough that we had to wear everything we had including rain gear to stay warm. Weather kept us off the water for one day of a three day trip but we ended up boating 4 muskies in two days. The best part was the other guy I went with had never caught a muskie so we checked that off his bucket list.

Much thanks to all who took the time to respond. Time to go watch the F1 race.

Frank:

Your first coat was much too thin if thread is exposed. Don't worry at all about apply more epoxy on any subsequent first coat. Or on your second coat. Almost all are pretty good at self leveling. First coat needs to fully cover all thread to the point where you could sand it a bit or cut off fuzzy or protruding thread ends with a razor blade.

As you can see from the above posts, everyone has learned from experience a routine they follow for applying thread epoxy. Most are slight variations on an overall proven theme.

Experience will get you where you need to go. Also, for a little no harm no fouled practice, find an old piece of a rod, or event a pen or pencil and make some wraps on it. Practice on those wraps by seeing how much epoxy you can apply. You will be surprised.

Like you, I apply my epoxy by using my rod dryer. And when done I just let it keep rotating. Actually, a higher RPM rod wrapping device can make applying epoxy a bit easier, but I don't care to invest in that, so the rod wrapper is just fine.

I have a final coat to apply on a 6-wt fly rod later today.

Also, go to Cabela's or a shop and look at rod thread wraps and epoxy.. You will see imperfections, especially on lower priced rods. And those are being done by a worker who does nothing but epoxy thread wraps.

You will be the only one to notice slight imperfections, and after you fish the rod 4 or 5 times, they will no longer bother you,as the rod will get dirt and marks from use all over its cork, reel seat and blank.

"It would be silly not to clean the rod in that situation."

Of course. I didn't mean to advocate not cleaning up an old finish. I was referring to a second coat of epoxy over recently applied epoxy.

After all, this was the original poster's question: "What is the definitive process for applying epoxy 48 hours or longer after the first coat? Does the existing epoxy need to be prepped in any way or can I just apply the next coat right on top like normal ?"

Another resource for the "definite process" for applying a second layer after 48 hours is to contact the manufacturer of the epoxy you used. They have all been excellent at replying to emails or even called me to discuss my question.

As you can see from the replies there's a lot of different processes that all work based on people's experiences. Key is to find the one that works for you.

Flex Coat in the advertiser link has a learning section with a lot of videos. There's a video showing how they do two thin coats.

Frank Petroczky Wrote:
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> Chris - I'm quite particular about my work
> environment and cleanliness doesn't get
> overlooked.

Frank...I wasnt really addressing the cleanliness of your environment...because I have no idea what that would be.
Really...after all, All the thread burnishing, dust collecting, tent drying and finish work just ends up being esthetic's at the end of the day.

I only mention cleaning the rod on a repair where the finish had been on the rod for along time.
After all you did ask about "the definitive process for applying epoxy 48 hours or longer after the first coat?"
Obviously, you would not need to clean a "new build" rod.

Frank,
Normally you can apply a coat of finish to any rod at any time.
Just be sure that the surface is clean, free of dust and apply.

It will be fine.

I did finally get back to finishing the epoxy after being sick all week. It was several days before I was able to finish it. A quick gentle "wiping" down and the epoxy went on, leveled, and cured just fine.

The definitive process is there is no one definitive process as I suspected. I just like to find the best practice that is suggested by veterans and start there. Plus my perfectionist tendencies drive me to do things a certain way like when I'm at my reloading bench, using or working on my chainsaws, brewing beer, or building an engine. Other times they get in the way.

Thanks again and Happy Easter!


Dave Taylor - "Experience will get you where you need to go. Also, for a little no harm no fouled practice, find an old piece of a rod, or event a pen or pencil and make some wraps on it. Practice on those wraps by seeing how much epoxy you can apply. You will be surprised." The recommendation to find something to practice on is great and I found a few that I can use. There is no better teacher than experience.

Ray - I always forget going straight to the source can get some of the best answers. Thanks for the reminder.

Chris - I didn't take your advice as addressing the cleanliness of my work environment. It is important in my house because we heat our home with our wood stove so ash dust will build up more in certain parts of the house. Wiping things down and keeping things clean help.

Roger - "Normally you can apply a coat of finish to any rod at any time.
Just be sure that the surface is clean, free of dust and apply. It will be fine." This sums it all up.