Jeffrey,
In additon - make a unique rod rest for the times you are wrapping small guides on small flexible tip sections of a rod.

A picture:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

These rod rests are made from a piece of plastic cutting board for a base.
The vertical supports are solid fiberglass ice rod sections.
Multiple holes are drilled into the base to allow you to position the rod rests as needed.
The top of the vertical rod rest is grooved by using an abrasive cut off wheel in a dremal tool.

It works very well to have a rod rest within an inch of each side of the guide being wrapped.

Because there is no top lock on the top of the rod rests, I run a new thread guide essentially at the level of the wrapper bed - to have the thread path go upward to the rod rest and essentially hold the flexible rod blank in the rod rest.

I've started using a small drop of superglue gel at the sides of the guide feet as well. You align the guides before applying the glue.

What I've come up with using single foot guides near the top of the 10' 5wt rod still in progress is to get a coat of Flex Coat guide foot adhesive on the foot then press it on to the blank and secure it in place with some thin, plastic coated twist tie. The stuff that comes on a roll at garden shops. That glue really doesn't seem to stick well but that's OK as you want to be able to move it around when you go to align all the guides later. At this stage the glue basically acts as a cushion and keeps it from sliding around too easy. The twist tie can really hold it in position securely.

Once your alignment device, some line with a bead in the tip-top say, is in place and you get them all just right you use your handy alcohol lamp to heat the tip of a small screwdriver and touch it to the foot melting the glue and fixing the guide in place. A little extra twist on the wire makes sure it won't move unless it gets a good bump so if a little clumsy like me you might have to run your line or laser again while wrapping to make sure nothing moved.

When you first press the guide in position when the glue is hot it will have the curve of the blank pressed into the bottom which helps with it's positioning too. Might stick better if the blank is first wiped clean with alcohol but I haven't tried that yet.

Pretty sure any old glue stick should work but I bought that special one so I'm using it.

“The gods do not deduct from man’s allotted span the hours spent in fishing.” - Herbert Hoover

dental ligature bands, proper guide foot prep, and support stand placement to minimize blank flex. I build primarily ice rods - and the tip guide is always a SF guide that is wrapped on. Many of my rods are hand sanded in the tip section - so I'm wrapping 0.65mm thick tips. These three things are key to getting a good wrap on thin, flexible blanks. Also, having a power wrapper is very helpful. I often using one hand to support the blank further, and the other hand to help guide the thread coming off the carriage more precisely as it walks up the guide foot. If I had 2 more hands, I'd find a way to use them as well. Practice makes perfect though.

You all have obviously thought about this and developed some really creative solutions to overcoming the problem. Your wraps are certainly better than mine.

I grabbed a couple of tips provided here that worked well for me: I temp wrapped the top of the foot working backwards from the guide ring, leaving plenty of room at the ramp to work up the actual wrap. For the temp wrap, like suggested by the poster, pretty didn't count and I even wrapped down the foot about 5-6 wraps and then back up on top of it to tie it off.

That along with a little ramp re-dressing did the trick for me and provided enough tension to keep the guide from moving around on me.

Some other really good stuff in this thread I plan to try out on future builds.

Thx to all that shared your small guide wrap secrets :)