I am contemplating my next builds and still in research and planning stages. I'm looking for a torpedo shape carbon graphite fly rod grip similar to the cork one offered by Proof. I have not found any shelf items or a custom house that doesn't have minimum order requirements. - I'll need two, not fifty!. I don't have the means to make my own. Any suggestions?

Dale Thompson
Small-time fly rod builder

Have you looked at Batson Enterprises or NFC ? And Amtak? You may have to compromise on shape. I personally would prefer one made commercially with robust processes and tooling rather than a home made one. I would take the shape closest to what I prefer. But I would compromise on shape. They all work. What the hand touches, for the most part, is almost just a cylinder.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/14/2023 04:44PM by Michael Danek.

You have several options. If you just want the carbon look, buy the Proof torpeedo grip and skin it. Or, have somebody like Custom Fly Rod Grips make up the core in foam, and skin that.

If you don't want to do the skinning yourself then you're in a bit of a bind. Not too many people making these custom for sale.

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"What the hand touches, for the most part, is simply a cylinder."

This is great misnomer when handles of any kind are involved. It killed many servicemen in WWII due to improper shaped levers, handles and switches in hastily designed vehicles, planes, tanks, etc. It was that death toll that prompted the then new USAF to launch a full scale study into the biomechanics of the human hand and which sizes and shapes could be most easily used and controlled with the least amount of effort and fatigue. The two most important aspects of any tool handle is #1 Size and #2, Shape. #3 is surface texture although that is a very distant 3rd and typically only important if the size and shape are incorrect.

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Hello All.

Here are your articles on ergonomics.

Vol/Issue................Article......................................................Author....................Page.
19/4 Ergonomics Part 1, Proper Grip/Handle/Seat Diameter. By Tom Kirkman. 24
19/5 Ergonomics Part 2, Proper Grip/Handle/Seat Shape By Tom Kirkman. 24
19/6 Ergonomics Part 3, Pommels and Tapers. By Tom Kirkman. 22
20/1 Ergonomics Part 4, Surface Texture. By Tom Kirkman. 14
23/6 Ergonomics Part 7, Why Shape Matters By Tom Kirkman. 18
19/6 Ergonomics Variation. 25
16/6 Ergonomics, Fishing Rod Levers. By Tom Kirkman. 18
10/3 Ergonomics, Fishing Rod. 10

I think this is all of them.
PPS This book has it all in one spot.
[www.rodmakermagazine.com]

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/14/2023 06:04PM by Robert A. Guist.

I respectfully disagree for any fly grip shape I've seen or used. A little swell,, or a little taper, maybe a different diameter, but still, ALMOST just a cylinder.

"A little swell, or a little taper" is exactly what sets it light years apart from a common cylinder. The research was extensive and conclusive. Lives have been saved because of it. Not that a fishing rod is a life or death matter, but the smallest change in grip diameter and shape make a HUGE difference.

Did you know, that on a straight cylinder grip (per the correct diameter) vs a straight line pull against a fishing rod with a full wells grip (of the same correct diameter), for the same amount of hand grasp force, it takes 3 times more force to pull the rod from the hand holding the full wells grip than it does the straight cylinder grip? If you want to translate this into on-the-water applications, this means a rod with a full wells grip only requires 1/3rd the amount of hand grasp effort to resist outward force than does a straight cylinder grip.

The field of human hand biomechanics and ergonomics is a fascinating field. The smallest things make the greatest difference.

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Thanks Guys
Michael: The shape is the whole point. Otherwise, I'd get a reverse half wells.

Tom: "Not that a fishing rod is a life or death matter..." Wait, what?!

Thinking that a grip is just a “cylinder” is tantamount to thinking that a Shakespeare Ugly Stik is really just about as good as any higher-end rod. After all, they’re all just fishing poles…right?

In the introduction for my latest book, I mention a gentleman that was on the verge of having to give up fishing (he had already been forced to sell his dentistry practice) due to a condition called “Myasthenia Gravis.” It’s not exactly arthritis but falls along the same lines. He came to me as a last resort because no one else could build him a rod that he could use for any length of time. No surprise - those custom builders were simply buying off the shelf pre-formed cork grips which were not ergonomically correct for his particular situation.

I took measure and decided to move most of the effort from his fingers to his stronger palm muscles. By putting more “swell” in his palm I crafted a rod that he could effectively fish for hours without pain or fatigue. He was able to fish an additional 15 years that he otherwise could not have.

We had an aircraft at the soaring club that no one liked. Everybody commented on just how “heavy” on the controls it was. The first time I flew it I knew exactly what was wrong - the grip was an absolute abomination in terms of proper ergonomics for the task it was intended to perform. After several years of complaints, I got around to replacing it but said nothing to the other pilots. Suddenly pilots began remarking how nicely the aircraft was flying, although none could explain why. Imagine that!

The importance of fishing rod grip size and shape cannot be overestimated. And this is the one area where customr rod builders have it all over the commercial rod manufacturers. They have to build to an average while the custom builder can build to the individual.

A great thread. I'm impressed..

I only build fly rods, and grip ergonomics is one of the features that makes selling my services successful! Hand sizes are not the same and griping conditions are not the same. Additionally, some people just prefer a different feel!

So now I'm thinking of making my own grips. The Flex Coat cork lathe looks pretty good. But I'd also like to use it for applying thread finish. Any reason this might not work or tricks that would help? Seems like a three jaw self-centering passthrough jaw would be better?

I know nothing about lathes, but it's very easy and inexpensive to adapt a drill press to turning soft materials like cork grips from glued up rings and EVA. However, making the recess for fly grips is hard to do. Works great for other types of grips/handles.

The torpedo grips I saw on older rods look like a Ritz grip after they tapered the front, both are a great shape for casting all day, a slight adjustment of hand position does wonders to decrease hand discomfort, but as Tom said, the shape isn't great for holding onto a heavy load. The Ritz pattern you see on the Custom Fly Grips site remind me more of a Gordon grip pattern.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/19/2023 06:37PM by Spencer Phipps.

This doesn't much apply to Dale's question which started this thread, but it might be of interest to some of you others who build fly rod handles.

As Michael Danek mentioned, you can rig up a drill motor or drill press to turn cork grips. I did that for a while, but once I made the move and spent $300 on a Wen "hobby" level lathe (LA3424 4.5 amp), I wish I had bought it years ago. I know that's a lot for some people to devote to a lathe, but I turn a few dozen handles a year and am now able to turn other handle materials like birch bark, cottonwood bark and (yes) even some stacked leather handles. I don't turn reel seat inserts but with a lathe you can do that, and seat recesses, as well. Plus all kinds of "artsy" stuff if you are into that. If you can afford to drop $200-300 on shop tools, I'd seriously consider a lathe. WEN is just one of several models of "hobby" lathes that rod builders swear by (there are threads here where users discuss the pros and cons of various models... I went with WEN, but there definitely are choices). And based on my experiences, the handles come out much nicer, and fewer mistakes which caused me to toss the handle in the bin and start over, than when I was using my drill motor (haven't had to start over since getting my lathe). I'm now searching for a used industrial grade lathe, because, you know, bigger is better, but in the mean time the hobby model works just fine. BTW I've been using the WEN for over 5 years and it works like a champ.

I second Tom Kirkman's view that each handle needs to be fitted to each hand, as far as reasonably possible. I only build rods/handles for friends and family (at cost... this is my "therapy"), which means that I can have them come to my house, turn the handle a bit and then have the person put the handle in hand to see how it fits. Then I turn a bit more and fit again. And again. It is amazing how much difference there is between peoples' idea of the perfect fit. I tend to like my fly rod handles pretty thick. with a pronounced but not too large "belly". Some prefer very thin and almost straight. And everything in between. And, of course, some just don't care... but you know what? Those who say "I don't really care" usually DO care, they just don't know what they like and don't like. Once they get something to feel, they say "oh, THAT one feels best". I'm nearing retirement and considering building and selling custom cork and birch bark handles in the future, but my biggest obstacle is that I can't really bring myself to selling someone a generic handle that's going on an expensive rod. My last dozen or so builds were on Sage X, Sage R8, Winston Boron III, etc., which I feel deserve a custom grip. Maybe I'll get over it, but there really is something to be said about "try it before you buy it", even on fairly inexpensive rods. After all, these are pieces of art that should be passed down for generations (I'm still fishing occasionally with one of my grandfather's Abercrombie and Fitch bamboo rods). I'm interested in hearing from those of you who build handles for clients who are not close enough to drop by and give it a try. Do you mail them back and forth for fit? Or just "buyer beware"? I'm not knocking distance building, just curious.

Lot's of good info here, David. I'm also curious as to what folks do when client is not close enough to test grip shapes and sizes in person.