Kevin -

You made me remember when I was new to rod-building. To your specific questions:

1.) When I was new to the craft, I got my money's worth from the learning bank (forum) and did all tests you listed - sounds like a good way to go about placing guides starting with the KR GPS calculator. A very good sequence that won't let you down. Tweak as needed along the way.

2.) David and Mark have nailed it with regards to your second question. There is likely a very good reason Fuji made little to no distinctions between Rod Actions in their KR Concept guide placement calculations. Rather, the emphasis is on Line Type/Size and the Distance from the Reel Spool face/axel to the Reduction Train and Choker.. Braided line was such a game changer and precipitated a paradigm shift at Fuji, IMO....so much so, they created an entire category of guides to respond to it. I agree with what many have said already; start with the recommended KR placements in your prelim stage, and make tweaks if you think are needed.

Aim small, miss small.

I suggest following your testing steps rather than skip some parts of it (for now) for a few reasons: A.. I benefitted from all the experiences of others and trying things out; I found there is a certain quality of knowledge and understanding that comes from personal experience that can be obtained no other way. B. Many experienced builders did or still do all your steps; the ones that still do it have found value in it, and those that don't probably figured out what works best for them through similar testing at some point. C. My last thought involves building confidence in the process and the final product; when the senses and data all line up, you are on to something.

David is giving you some great wisdom here when you read where he finds the critical points of his guide trains: the Butt Guide and the Choke Guide. Getting the guide size and spacing right, based on his line type and size, was mentioned as more critical than even missing a running guide. (Please correct me, David, if I am misunderstanding you!)

A reminder to myself: It is important to do static line testing in stages from light load to a full load for that rod's use and purpose. I think about my reel's drag as a part of the overall system that can control the amount of load my rod will ultimately endure.

Bottom line, there is that Forgiveness Factor built in to all rods. So, always forgive yourself for wanting to fish more and work less!

Les, you're exactly right in your interpretation on how I look at it. And I got the way I look at it, from my interpretation of how Fuji looks at it.

The fine folks at Fuji are supplying the wisdom. I'm just sharing how I apply it. But thanks for the compliment. I do appreciate it.

One change I’ve seen over a few decades is that tapers and construction techniques have become more refined. At moderate and above quality levels it’s rare for contemporary blanks to have abrupt shutoff, flat, or hinge points. When these still exist, they are usually purposeful to a technique. More guides combined with fairer bending blanks equal less guide adjustments from a a good, progressive starting point. I often build on SCV and SCIV blanks. I am continually impressed with the refinement of their tapers. Fast and moderate fast blanks in these two series bend very fair. Conversely, some blanks from thirty or more years ago have definite hinges behind the tip and in front of the fore grip. Other zones on these stay mostly flat. Two line static testing would be a must on everyone of these. I wouldn’t trust consistency on two of the same model number on many of these.

I use the "Equal Angle" Method.

Kerry,
Thanks for the reply. I am unfamiliar with the “Equal Angle Method” for positioning / spacing guides. I would certainly be interested in exploring another method if you would please explain / elaborate.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark Talmo Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Kerry,
> Thanks for the reply. I am unfamiliar with the
> “Equal Angle Method” for positioning / spacing
> guides. I would certainly be interested in
> exploring another method if you would please
> explain / elaborate.


I made my large plexiglas graph many many years ago based on a discussion by DON MORTON. Last I heard these graphs were being sold by RENZETTI. Check with them, dealing with a dying grandchild and don't feel like discussing, sorry.