What or why are preformed cork grips cheaper than the same grip made with individual cork rings?

Less expensive cork and some mechanized processes in how they're shaped.

...........

Pre-forms: If you look closely, you will see significant amounts of cork fillers used on many grips that are pre-formed. The filler appears lighter in color, IMO. Just look closely.

The pre-forms, as Tom said, are made of cheaper materials/lower grade cork and mass-produced to minimize costs. Low-grade cork and low-grade fillers are used to sell the grip at a competitive price.

Not Advocating Pre-formed/Cheap Cork Grips, Just Some Thoughts In My Experience:

Cheaper is not to say they are of No Value.

If I look at it in a rational sense, what percentage of the cork's surface is a hole? What percentage of the cork does my hand actually contact? Anecdotally, I'd have to conclude that the amount of holes is really pretty low. Also, anecdotally, I have fished a few thousand hours with a cork grip that is full or holes and cracks and shad scales and never noticed. In fact, I can rarely remember a time when I thought, "Hey, all these little holes really ruin my day catching fish."

The shape, length, and overall feel/texture of the grip are another matter. (Too narrow, or too squishy-soft, or too long, or too short....yes, these have mattered noticeably to me at times).

As a custom builder, I have learned from Tom and others how to modify things for my purposes rather than take what I can get as served:

1) Use a cheap pre-form grip and cut and sand it to add or subtract the length of the grip.
2) Use a cheap pre-form grip to add decorative cork or other elements in the grip. (I usually like to put a contrasting design in the center of the grip to balance the colors either side.)
3) Use a cheap pre-form grip and add quality filler when the cheap filler breaks out; lightly re-sand into a new-looking grip.

4) My buddy and I have even purchased a longer, pre-form grip, cut off two or three inches, and re-shaped the cut-off piece into a fore grip or fighting butt. Cork is cork in some ways.

It's very like the question: What can you do with the 2-foot piece you cut off that 2x4 lumber? Answer = A million things! Same with pre-form cork grips. They can be the base material for some fancier work if you can learn how to work with what you have!

Thanks Tom . Makes perfect sense as to why the grips are cheaper. Bill

You make some very persuasive points, Les. The most obvious is that cheap cork fishes just as well as expensive cork. I don't use pre-form grips for most rods because I like shapes that I cannot get in pre-formed corks.

For me the appearance also makes a big difference. I just cannot get beyond looking at pitted, "holey" cork. I know, a head game. But it's there.

I don't like the look of some of the burl corks, either. They look too uniform and remind me of particle board. I like the burls that have bigger pieces of irregular shape, which to my head game is recognized as "character."

Then there are all the fancy burls of "wild" patterns. My head game thinks "gaudy" when I see most of them.

Different strokes for different folks.

In current days with lower quality cork, and more expensive cork of all kinds, I simply go with filler for all of the grips that I make.

I use Elmers Pro - golden Oak wood filler that is good for both interior and exterior and is waterproof when cured.

I simply take the glued up cork ring on the lathe and take the shape of the cork down to about the 2nd grit of sand paper or about 180 grit paper.

At that point with the grip still on the lathe, I take high pressure air and really blow every particle of loose material out of the grip. i.e. holes, cracks, or other fissure. Then, I applyh a generous amount of Elmers golden oak to the entire grip - letting it dry for a couple of hours.

I will then go over the grip as needed to get back to the shape and essentially remove 90% of the filler that I have put on. I continue with the sand paper getting down to 400 and then 600. Finally, I turn the sand paper over and finish with the smooth back side of the sand paper. I will again use compressed air to go over the grip and verify that the surface is smooth, complete and free of any pits, voids or other imperfections. If necessary, I may have go to over a couple more spots again, if any defect is found. I follow up for the last time wiht the sanding procedure and the last thing is to go over the spinning grip with a damp cloth to remove any dry powder left on the grip.

---
Then, in future times, after having using the rod for a period of time I will take a half dozen rods and take them into the laundry room and use warm water, simple green cleaner and a tooth brush to clean the grip and the rest of the rod. No need to fish with a dirty rod.
After drying, if I find that any pits or imperfections have appeared, I will do a spot filler, using the same filler and same sanding process to return the cork to its finished fully filled appearance and feel. In this case, I simply do the job while holding the rod in the power wrapper, not turning the rod very fast to avoid any sort of destructive oscillation. In this case the clean up typically only takes a few minutes.

No need to not have a nicely filled cork surface to use while fishing. Easy to keep that way as well.

Take care

Standard grade (A) natural cork rings run as low as $0.36 1.25" x .5". Higher premium grade (Flor) can run anywhere from $2.25 to $4.00+ for the same size ring. The ratings are all over the place so A, AA, AAA, AAAA and Flor don't have a lot of meaning. They will even put filler in lower grade cork rings and sell them as high grade rings. Burl and rubberized cork are fairly consistent in quality but they do weigh more than natural cork. Everything said above is true and good practice when using cork. I use a thin 15 minute clear epoxy to put my rings together and for filler I like the natural or golden oak DAP Plastic Wood filler. Even with high grade cork you will most likely need filler.

From my POV, tough to do a nice job building your own cork grip or reforming a purchased grip without a lathe or tool to spin it at a high RPM.

Andy DIY suggestions without a lathe? Or on how to make a make-shift lathe, such as with hand drill?

Checkout this from flex coat. Could make one as well. Best part when not using you can put it away.

[flexcoat.com]