Looking at the possibility of using CFX Carbon Fiber grips/butts on my Winter build. Do you need to ream them out to make them fit? If so, how do you ensure they don't unravel? I was looking at the CFX butt, rear grip, and the foregrip for my TVS reel seat with hidden thread.

Thanks in advance..

Ron Beloff

Depending on your blank OD, yes the foam interior must be reamed to fit. They won't unravel.

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Tom,

Thanks. Would it make more sense for me to ream them in only 1 direction - namely toward the inside of the grip??

You can ream carbon fiber grips as you would any other grip. They ream very easily so be careful you don’t over ream.
Norm

Ron,
The foam used deformes/compresses very easily - so reem less than you would do for cork. Then force the grip over the blank - the foam will compress.
The front edge of the grip should not come in contact with the blank. The carbon fibers will abrade the blank. Whenever I installed a CFG I alwas port the grip at the fron end and insert a neoprene "O" ring as a protectine buffer between the CF and the blank.
An alternative is to fill space with epoxy.
Herb

The foam is absolutely rigid - it does not compress, unless CFX is using a type of foam that I am unaware of. If they are, I would use a different make grip in order to get the advantages of the lightweight rigid foam core - that's the magic. The carbon skin is for looks.

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The foam used in carbon fiber grips is ridged, not flexible. Ream it just as you would cork, direction is to match the rod taper, not from the opposite direction. Ream slowly as it reams much faster than cork!.

I assume you have a tapered reamer . If not , I would suggest you purchase one ( or a set ) or make your own from an old rod blank . Ream from the back or butt end , go slowly , allow the grip to turn in your hand a little while reaming , and above all check often by sliding the grip on the blank to dry fit . You're gonna love your carbon fiber grips .

Blow out the bore of the grip after each reaming cycle to prevent any grit trapped in there from scratching the blank. Purchased reamers have the advantage of an end that will fit into a drill driver chuck. There is a good video on the Rodbuilding blog, I think.

I understand what Herb is trying to say. He's saying that it's easier to push a foam core grip a little further down the blank past the point of it being a tight fit, than it is a cork grip. You can press a fingernail into the foam, as well as dent it. And if the grip has a tenon, you can dent the edges of the tenon. I have used both CFX and the Forecast grips that Batson offers, and these things are true about both brands. I will say that the Forecast grips are made out of a more dense foam though. Or the seem to be to me.

I know I learned not to continually test fit the foam core grips after getting them reamed to fit. Continually taking them on and off the blank will result in a progressively looser fit. As far as reaming, as others have said they ream very easily. You definitely want to go slow and check frequently. Also, and this is just my opinion based on my limited experience with them, but as easily as they ream, I can see no reason to use a power reamer on them.

I have found the opposite. Foam grips for me need to be reamed very close to final placement. Cork, I could slide down further with the epoxy applied.

They won't compress unless it's a very low density foam. I have no idea what density CFS uses but the ones I make from 8lb foam need to be reamed to very close fit. They're certainly more rigid than cork which is the secret to their "magic."

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I’ve reamed over a dozen CFX grips. The foam is rigid and doesn’t compress. They do ream a lot faster than cork, but it still takes some work to size them with a tapered reamer. They won’t unravel while reaming. Yes, blow them out as you would any grip to get rid of grit that could damage a blank. I don’t trust hard foams and carbon fiber when it comes to respiratory health, though. Be careful not to make dust where humans and pets could breath it.

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> They won't compress unless it's a very low density
> foam. I have no idea what density CFS uses but the
> ones I make from 8lb foam need to be reamed to
> very close fit. They're certainly more rigid than
> cork which is the secret to their "magic."
>
> .............


Hey Tom, what foam do you use and where do you get it?

I get mine from US Composites. They offer several different densities. I see no reason to go above 8lb density.

Many other sources for this type product as well - boat building supply houses are a good source.

When Andy and I unveiled the foam-core/carbon-skin grips to the fishing world, we wrote articles on both steps of the process. This was in 2005 and can be found in the volume 10 #6 issue of RodMaker.

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Kendall,
With respect to sanding and working with any sort of material that may place you and your lungs at risk:

[www.amazon.com]

Your health is worth many more $$$$$$$$$$$ than the cost of this breathing mask.

Same for working with any sort of chemicals that may have an adverse effect on the body.

Best wishes

Thanks, that is about the same cost I paid for mine many years ago, and it looks much improved.

SO would I be able to use spray insulation foam the same way? Could I fill a reel seat to create a perfect fit foam arbor?

Spray insulation foam is not nearly as dense and most of it isn't waterproof. Not strong, either.

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