Im curious if anyone feels the need for a heater/mixer vs the heat in the palm of your hand while mixing?
Cheers all!
Craig Snapp

Want bubbles? Mix by hand. Do yourself a favor and get a mixer. Prove it yourself, mix by hand and set container aside to dry. Millions of TINY bubbles.

I mix over a heater or stove top. Best method I've found to avoid bubbles when mixing my hand.

You don't need a heater of any sort. However, it will help if your epoxy is no cooler than room temperature when you measure and mix it. Mix slowly and you won't have much in the way of bubbles. A mixer will generate an even clearer mix.

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Craig,
I have tried them all. i.e. different methods of heating, not heating, hand mixing and mixing by hand.

However, for myself, I mix the finish by hand with the temp of the epoxy at about 70 degrees. So, if the finish has been colder, I will get the finish up to about 70 degrees.

However, I do not like to raise the temperature above about 70 degrees F, when applying because for me; I find that it accelerates the cure of the epoxy too much.

I use a craft stick that has been cut to square ends, with a slight radius rounded on each edge of the mixing stick to avoid cutting into the plastic mixing cup that I use.

I use equal parts of part A and part B by volume. Then, I mix slowly for 2 minutes or 120 seconds - as measured by the clock. I frequently wipe off the sides of the mixing stick and frequently wipe the sides of the mixing cup with the craft stick. This insures that every single big of epoxy is completely mixed.

Then, I use 1 disposable brush for each mix of epoxy to apply the finish.

When applying finish, I get the finish applied quickly be applying the finish to a rotating rod that is rotating from 0 to 50-60 rpm. i.e. 0 rpm when filling the tunnels and much faster when applying to the longer wraps.

In the first application, I am concerned with simply getting enough finish applied so that it will be adequate for a complete fill of the thread etc. I start with the butt end of the rod, and go to the tip top.

I always apply finish under very intense light while wearing a 2x head band mounted magnifier..

On the initial coat, I spend - perhaps 30 seconds per wrap to get the finish applied.

From this point on, I keep a heat gun in one hand and the finish brush in the other.

I go back to the butt wrap and go over the finish with a bit of heat to slightly thin the finish and use the brush with epoxy to either add a bit as needed or to dab off too much if not required.

I will repeat for the rest of the wraps up to the tip top. Again, this is about a 2-3 minute operation total.

Finally, I go back a third time for a final inspection and either a slight add or a slight subtraction of finish and also triple checking to insure that there are 0 bubbles in the finish.

When satisfied, I let the rod dry over night and check the last time before shipping the rod. I use flex coat high build and normally use 1+ coat of rod finish. i.e. I apply one full coat initially, and then during the two following inspections either slightly add or slightly subtract finish for the perfect finish. I seldom ever apply a 2nd coat - unless on the following day, I find a guide that is not perfect and requires a bit of touch up.

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The problem that I have with a mixer, is that there is the cleaning issue, and the potentially wasted epoxy by use of the mixer ball and container.

Best wishes

I sit my epoxy in a sink with hot tap water for about 10 minutes.
I also use a mixer and have found very few if any bubbles in my mix.

Thank you all very much!! Really great responses!
Cheers
Craig Snapp

Roger thank you for a great detailed response. I'll look to adopt your techniques.
Thanks again!
Cheers
Craig Snapp

Craig,
Note:
If you use any sort of heat on uncured rod finish - be very very very careful to use just enough to do what you need to do with the epoxy.

At all costs - avoid overheating and boiling the finish.

Best wishes