Hey now fellas. I was wondering….how does it work when one matches guides to a reel? I’m not a rod builder, but I still like to know the theory behind it.

So when I have a walleye rod made for me, should I send him my reel?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/25/2022 07:20PM by David Riesenbeck.

I assume you are talking about a spinning rod with the walleye rod mentioned. The reel matters much less than the line. Most walleye fishing is done with a 2000-3000 size reel, all of which are similar enough to not affect guide layout. In my opinion Fuji KLh guides are the premier spinning guides. They have software to recommend guide sizes and a layout. Go to anglers resource (link to the left on this site) and look at the KR guide placement software. The basics are that this system "funnels" line into small guides sooner, thus reducing guide size and weight on the rod. Braided line is easier to "funnel" and therefore you can use smaller line. If I am building a walleye rod that will only size 6 pound braided line (my usual) I will build with size 16, 8, 5.5 reduction guides and size 4.5 runners. If it might use 20 pound braid or any mono above 6 pounds I will use 20, 10, 5.5 reduction and 4.5 runners. Others will have difference guide preferences, but this is what works for me.

David,
When building (or having built) a CUSTOM rod, it is never a bad thing to use the actual reel to be employed when the rod is completed. Is it absolutely essential? = only to the most discriminating anglers. As Peter mentioned, spinning reels OF THE SAME SIZE are quite similar while line type and size may be more dictative to actual guide size choice. His guide examples are pretty much standard and basically what I follow as well.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

There is an article in the library: New Guide Concept- Spinning Rods. It's a good read that will help.

There are a lot of opinions, but keep in mind that millions of rods have been successfully fished without having had the reel specs when the rod was buiilt. Peter has it right.

David,
I simply separate the rods between fresh water and salt water.

If it is a fresh water rod, I tend to use the same guides, same sizes and types - no matter the particular size of an expected reel. This is that for myself - I may have a great fishing rod for 20 years or more. In that time, I may have 50 different reels of different sizes on that same rod. As a result, I simply build to the center of the curve with respect to guides.

On a typical fishing day, I may have 20 rods in the boat - all without reels on them. I have a reel bag with a large number of reels.

I do this because it is much easier to carry and store rods with no reels on them.

When fishing, I make a rod choice, grab a reel that fits the fish that I am targeting and put them together. In only takes a couple of minutes. In a typical day, I seldom use more than 6 or so rods, but I have a nice number of backup rods for anything that might come up.

Then, before leaving the boat parking lot, I cut the lines, remove the reels and put them back in their bags and store the rods. No travel damage to either rods nor reels using this technique.

But, everyone is different.

Best wishes.

Peter Yawn Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I assume you are talking about a spinning rod with
> the walleye rod mentioned. The reel matters much
> less than the line. Most walleye fishing is done
> with a 2000-3000 size reel, all of which are
> similar enough to not affect guide layout. In my
> opinion Fuji KLh guides are the premier spinning
> guides. They have software to recommend guide
> sizes and a layout. Go to anglers resource (link
> to the left on this site) and look at the KR guide
> placement software. The basics are that this
> system "funnels" line into small guides sooner,
> thus reducing guide size and weight on the rod.
> Braided line is easier to "funnel" and therefore
> you can use smaller line. If I am building a
> walleye rod that will only size 6 pound braided
> line (my usual) I will build with size 16, 8, 5.5
> reduction guides and size 4.5 runners. If it might
> use 20 pound braid or any mono above 6 pounds I
> will use 20, 10, 5.5 reduction and 4.5 runners.
> Others will have difference guide preferences, but
> this is what works for me.

I use 8 or 10lb braid.

With 8 or 10 pound braid, about anything will work well for casting distance with any reasonable reel size. The smaller/lighter the better for recovery speed and theoretically, sensitivity.

The KR concept guide train that Peter mentioned is the way to go. The only flaw in the software is that it suggests too few running guides. You are going to want at least 1, and IMO at least 2 more running guides than the software suggests. Other than that you can follow the guide sizing and spacing the software recommends to a tee.

It's an awesome guide train for a spinning rod.

Others may disagree, but I have found that the Airwave guides are awesome for casting light baits on a baitcasting reel.