I found it and the dryer in the floor this morning and the 2nd. coat of finish messed up. Can I sand it and put another coat on to fix the blemishes?

Not sure how it happen but if you use a chuck on your motor [ plastic with 3 arms on it ] you have to make sure the axis of the blank holder is lined up with the axis of the motor , if not it will walk an the blank will drop out when using it as a dryer , this takes time to walk out of the jaws of your motor , [ like hours, like drying dz ]

William Sidney
AK

Michael, I'm pretty sure most people will disagree with me or want my head for this but...a month ago, the tool I use that fits in my rubber chuck and then inside the female section of rod I was drying some how came loose and stopped turning. The finish sagged with a big belly and dried. I thought of removing every guide and starting over. Instead I used a new razor blade and carefully shaved the excess finish off (which was most of it) with out hitting thread. Then put another even coat of finish on. The finished areas are a little larger than I like but still very clear. The shaved areas and marks are unnoticeable. I've since done the same thing on a couple guide finishes I didn't like. I initially tried sanding down the areas but kept touching the blank and causing scuff marks.

I screw or clamp the motor end of the dryer to my bench, this prevents the dryer from walking or accidentally being knock over. Yes you can sand to smooth the finish, but take your time and be careful not to sand into the threads. I have used a finger nail Emory board for doing this. It has a flat surface of appropriate width, easily controlled, and works well.
Norm



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/28/2021 10:39AM by Norman Miller.

i never built a rod that was not worth my attention for one or two hours..build a long hot box and have the tip sticking out one end then turn the rod by hand 180 degrees at a time..probably less than an hour,s attention needed..

I use tape on the chuck so no matter what, it won't come out. It has happened to me before (more than once). If the epoxy is still somewhat soft then Todd's method along with a little sanding will work. Just use water to clean up the sanding dust, solvents will make the epoxy sticky and difficult to clean up.

Michael,
Sorry for you problem but all is not (probably) lost. Simply learn from the experience to avoid it happening again.
If you are going to sand the affected areas, consider allowing the epoxy to fully cure before sanding. While it may have set, epoxies require a number of days to FULLY CURE; sanding gummy epoxy does not produce as nice of a finish as when hard. If it possible, a post cure of 150* for 6-8 hours will eliminate the extended wait time.
Shaving the affected areas as Todd suggested is another possibility; I do not understand why he was afraid of his method being wrong = it is certainly doable. However, inversely to sanding, the sooner = the better. Norman’s suggestion of using an Emory board is very good if you can find one with the proper grit.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

With the 3 jaw chuck and freestanding dryer motor I found you had to reverse tape the butt of the rod.....then tape it into the chuck.....then tape the dryer motor base down.... then pray.

If the axis is the same on the motor an the holder for the blank on the drying stand that problem goes away , I THINK

William Sidney
AK

Save your prayers, nothing has ever fallen out of the Flex Coat self adjusting chuck on all USA made Flex Coat motors.

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Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

I believe that John. I've been using flex coat for 15+ years and never had a rod walk out. Have 3 of them now. But...just received the up to 200RPM motor with slip clutch and it wobbles. I have had the problem before on the others but was able to adjust the blank in or out and mostly fix the problem. I worked for half an hour just adjusting and couldn't get it fixed.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/02/2021 10:25AM by Todd Andrizzi.

Walking out of chuck ??? i the reason is that the axis of the blank is not on the same plane as the jaw's of the dryer motor axis , if they are not on the same, some thing has to flex as blank turns ,

William Sidney
AK

Walking out of chuck ??? i the reason is that the axis of the blank is not on the same plane as the jaw's of the dryer motor axis , if they are not on the same, some thing has to flex as blank turns ,

William Sidney
AK

Todd,
With respect to your wobble issue:

1. Is the shaft on the motor straight and have no wobble as it turns.

2. Is the body of the chuck true - and ignoring the front of the chuck, does the body of the chuck turn cleanly with no wobble. i.e. is the casting true and is the back of the chuck true so that the molded chuck itself run true.

3. Now, comes the question: Is the hole in the face plate of the chuck perfectly centered in the face of the chuck.

My guess is that if items 1 and 2 are all right, that then you have a bad face plate on the chuck that is not 100% in the center of the chuck. If that is the case, just have flex coat send you a new face for the chuck, or the chuck itself wobbles and the face of the shaft is 100% at 90 degrees to the chuck, the you need to have a new chuck sent to you to eliminate the wobble. I think that your situation is rare. I have used a bunch of these chucks over the years and have never had an issue with any of them.

Good luck

Thanks Roger, I will check all of those issues. I haven't used it yet..just put a finished rod in and turned it to see what 200RPM's looks like.

Todd

Also, you can give me a call and I would be glad to talk to you about all things motors and chucks and more

512-858-7742

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

I had a couple of rods walk out of a 3 jaw chuck during the drying process on my PacBay power wrapper a couple of years ago. I removed the rubber jaw covers and stuck pieces of a pebbled finish self adhesive saltwater grip tape which seemed to give a more positive grip (my perception). But the real solution to the problem was how the rod was supported during the drying process. I discovered that if you chuck the butt as usual and have the remainder of the rod reasonably level, resting on one of the supports without having the top wheel of the support in contact with the rod so that the rod is only cradled from the bottom, it won't walk out. If the top support wheel is tightened down on the blank and everything isn't perfectly plumb, force is being applied that will make the butt walk.

If your using a static { thumb screw retainer} rather than a dynamic { rubber disk} retainer , its best to hook a rubber band from the rod butt to one of the thumb screws , thus pulling the rod into the cup preventing drop out,even if the screws get a little loose.

If your using a static { thumb screw retainer} rather than a dynamic { rubber disk} retainer , its best to hook a rubber band from the rod butt to one of the thumb screws , thus pulling the rod into the cup preventing drop out,even if the screws get a little loose.

Not exactly pertinent to this discussion, but I recommend adding a UPS to the rod dryer equation.

Been awhile since I have built a rod so the memory is fuzzy. Seem to recall my Pac Bay chuck gets locked down, then has a back-up wing nut, and hooks on the jaws for three rubber bands. It has worked well for me FWIW. I haven't tried the flex coat, but like all of their offerings, I'm sure it is a quality product.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.