Which brand of color preserver works best on feathers used in inlays. I know in the article in Rodmaker a while ago, the author mentions "the white kind" diluted with water (I sincerely appologize for not remembering the author's name, I do not have the article with me).

I have seen several posts that elude to using CP with feather enlays. I have been doing feather enlays for years and I never use CP. I am not sure why or how it is used.

I would love to hear how, why and when CP is used to enlay feathers.

For me, CP is used on thread to keep the color from washing (darkening) when epoxy is applied. I almost never use CP on any of my rods. I love the darkening and rich look of darkened thread on a blank.

I came to this board to learn and if there is a better way of laying the feathers in the epoxy and I am missing out, then I want to know!

For me, here is how it goes.

Decide on a theme including the rod, thread, feathers and reelseat.

Next, wrap the rod and decide on which feathers you are going to enlay.

Next, place some epoxy on the thread or blank where the feathers are to me mounted. Lay a feather on the blank and using a needle, work it into postion by moving it with the needle and adding a little epoxy to the top of the feather to make more plyable.

If the feathers are stiff, then you can layer with wet feathers. If the feathers are soft, like Indian Crow or Kingfisher, then you need to let that layer dry for a day, before adding more feathers. Some of my patterns take a week or two to build because the feathers move around so much.

Make sure they are straight. After all the feathers are laid in the epoxy, coat with epoxy till they are all covered or the desired depth is achieved.

Here is where you would add thread or a winding check of chain or whatever you want to hide the ends of the feathers or finish the wraps. You would put it in a lathe and sand round to put the winding check or the thread or chain to make sure it is straight.

Add more epoxy, covering the feathers.

Next, place it in the lathe and sand it perfectly round. This removes unwanted spoxy and keeps the area narrow and neat. Sand the area, smoothing it with several grits of sandpaper starting with 220 and ending with 1500 grit.

Put the finish coat on the rod and wam-mo. You are done.

I know I got off the subject, but what the heck, I felt like typing this morning.

Terry Henson

A coat of Flex Coat CP thinned a little with water is put on. Then the feather is layed down . Adjusted " I comb the barbs out" to where you want it. Let dry. One more coat of CP, let dry, then clear. Or more feathers?

Joe,

I used CP to glue up one of my inlays last week. I will be putting epoxy on it tonight. I used Gudebrod 811. I coated the feathers liberally and put them on the blank (no underwrap) where I wanted them. You can adjust them for a little bit until the CP thickens and starts to dry. Then just let them sit. I came back the next day and cleaned up a few parts of the blank that had some extra cp that dribbled around. Should turn out a good inlay.

Thanks
Rick
rkoontz@andrew.cmu.edu

Joe:

I have been unlaying streamer patters for about two years now. I use Gudebrod color preserver for that task. It is a clear, acrylic material that can be thinned with water and dries clear. Only problem with the Gudebrod is that you MUST keep it from freezing.

When I have inlaid feathers, I prefer to use those that are quite webby. The process is not difficult. For larger hackles, I use this method. First, the feather is positioned and the quill is taped to the blank with a 1/16" strip of making tape. The tip of the feather is aligned with the axis of the blank and heald in place with a small piece of 1/16"masking tape along the axis of the blank. CP is applied with a fairly stiff, bristle brush, about 1/4" wide. The stiff fibers in the brush allow the barbules on the feather to be aligned as the cp is applied. The barbules can be pushed into position with a bodkin, the central quill can be aligned with the bodkin as well. Once the feather is down, wetted fully, and in place, I remove the small piece of masking tape keeping the tip in line and the wet the tip of the feather with CP, and make sure it is properly in place before stopping. I allow the CP to dry for a couple of hours, and than can apply additional feathers over the first, with none of them moving.

If I am applying only smaller feathers, they can be laid directly on a blank wet with CP where the feather is to be placed. The feather must be wetted and positioned with a bodkin and allowed to dry before other actions are taken.

Hope this helps.

Doug Weber
Weber Rod Works

I'm planning feather inlays for my next four rods (my first feather inlays), all of which are saltwater blanks (.8 to .9 butt diameter) so I have lots of room with which to work. Still, I am concerned about bending larger feathers, like peacock, around the shaft of the rod. Any special techniques or do they just adhere to the CP without problems?

I don't want to get it all layed out on the rod and then have the feathers "pop" away from the shaft. This has been on my mind since I decided to inlay feathers.

Also, dry feathers have a natural "velcro" like adhesion between the strands (I don't know the proper word) that makes them align together. Does CP affect this?

Thanks.

For those of you who are interested in feathers and feather inlays
please see the site [www.siskiyouaviary.com] . I have been
supplying many of you with rare and exotic beauties for inlays.
The inventory of feathers constantly changes as the birds molt
at different times of the year. I also mail out with orders an instruction
sheet that was written by Robert Meiser on his techinques on
doing inlays.

Thanks,
Kate Davidson
Siskiyou Aviary (sponsor)