A howdy, first off. This is a bit confusing for the rank beginner. While there are lots of very pretty reel seats out there, I'm trying to build a couple of no-frills fly rods (except where frills aid function). Ordered the book first (Advanced Custom Rod Building), but would like some idea as to which is the appropriate reel seat for this rod design. I ordered a pair of 9' 7wt PAC Traditions blanks. Will build one to completion, then try to improve with the second. I want a simple, up-locking aluminum reel seat w/ channels for the reel's feet, and which can take a small, simple fighting butt. Basically I'm looking for the setup on my Orvis Trident 9 wt, but for these 7 wts. Salt water is likely.

Thank you for any suggestions. I'm certain I'll be botheri...er...inquiring again right soon.

VA

You could look at the Pacific Bay A6. It doesn't have a mortice but does have a machined 'flat spot' for the reel foot. The seat comes in a recessed formed hood version or a fixed hood.

The Pacific Bay CL8 Channel Lock sound like the perfect seat and exactly what you are looking for.

Both seats will accept the removable fighting butt.

Andy Snedden

Thank you. I suppose I should have said that I know the seats I'm looking for are right there in front of my eyes, but I either can't figure out the model number or am concerned a certain model might be too heavy for my purpose. Will look at the A6 and CL8.

Victor,
You might look at the Fuji FPS-16 graphite composite seat.
They arent pretty but, they hold a reel better than most seats,are really light and will be no trouble in the salt.
Just build the grip with a small incorporated fighting butt and you're all set.
Just a thought !
Happy rolling,
John

John,

I'd aesthetically prefer aluminum, but will have a look at that model. This is about function, after all. Thank you for suggesting it. Question: how would I go about incorporating a cork butt?

VA

i just finished a 7 wt. rod using a pacbay A6 reel seat. the one i used is an A6R-BG ( all aluminum, blank seat, gold rings and hood w/ recessed hood). for the fighting butt i used an F2-B (removable 2" ball type). also needed a FBC-B (end cap for when not using the fighting butt).

I'm with John on the Fuji.
These seats are bombproof. They're just about the lightest you can get, completely corrosion proof and never work loose.
A fashion statement they ain't, but if you choose a model with the black hoods,(DPS 16B) this looks quite tidy.

I usually turn, drill and tap a small piece of alloy to make an end cap for a screw in cork butt, but you can buy the whole kit ready made.
You just epoxy it into the end of the seat.

Dave

I just started working on a SCV 10 wt and went with the CL8 Channel lock Titanium seat. It has the appearance of Aluminum. Some of the pics of this seat are a darker color. Untrue.
Its a beauty, and with the alternative fighting butt plug, i can use the Pac Bay 2" and 5" removable cork/rubber fighting butts. (Its for kings in AK)
I used this seat on a recommendation from this site......these guys are good!
RB

Robert, how "heavy" is that CL-8 seat? This is a 7 wt. I'm going to build, and strictly with a purpose. More I think about it the more appropriate that Fuji plastic seat sounds, though the fighting butt issue has me stumped. I suppose I could jury-rig something, but would likely need a "base/foundation" from which to work on a glue-on butt.

Victor,

There is a great article in one of the Rodmaker Issues about making fighting butts for Fuji seats. If you want a fixed butt it is definitely possible. If you have to have removable, I think it is a bit more work.

The Chanel lock seats aren't that heavy at all. Also the A8 Pac Bay, while not channeled, is a great all around seat. I have an A7 on my 5 wt and like it. I had an A8L on my 6 wt and it wasn't too much. Just remember that if you take weight off the reel seat, chances are you'll have to add weight to the reel to balance the rod (assuming you balance your rods).

Rick
rkoontz@andrew.cmu.edu

Although I dont know the exact weight, its a light seat, and seems to balance better with the 5" butt than with the 2" for this 10 wt.
(I've got a Orvis BBS-V to go with it.)
This was just a suggestion based on your want of an aluminum seat with a small fighting butt option for your 7. I dont think you will be dissapointed. If weight is your main concern, give one of the sponsors who carries it a call, or PB for that matter, they might be able to give you the weight.
RB

Victor,

The fighting butt for the Fuji isn't a great problem.
If you want a detachable butt, most of the folks that make fighting butts will also supply an adapter which you epoxy into the end of the seat.
Pac Bay make one and really any make that will fit 16mm ID seats will do.

I usually drill a couple of 1/16 holes through the seat into the adapter after the epoxy has cured and epoxy a couple of brass pins in for extra security.

Been using these seats for a long while and have a couple of rods fitted with these almost 20 yrs old, still in use - no problem.

Dave

Neither the detachability nor the CL-8's actual weight are that. impotant Can live with either fixed or detachable, and was more worried that the CL8 was too "heavy" in a "heavy-duty" sense, as in it might look like overkill on a 7 wt. Will definitely check out the Fuji's, as the idea is growing on me.

Thanks to all. This is going to be a slow trip for me, but I'm sure the questions will be numerous. Right now I'm just waiting for my book and blanks.

VA

ps. I do balance my baitcasting rods, though maybe not at the same point everyone else might. Where would/should a fly rod balance?

Victor,

I typically balance my fly rods just a little behind where I naturally hold them when I'm fishing. I never add weight to the rod. I'll make sure I pick the right components to get a decent balance to begin with, then use an appropriate reel. For instance, when I built my 8' 4 wt, i used light wire guides and small ones at that. Then, I could keep the reel seat light and consequently the whole set up light. On my 10'6" 7 wt I had to use a heavier reel seat and light wire guides. Still, I have to use a little heavier reel to balance everything out. It works though so I am sticking with it.

Keep your wraps short, epoxy thin, and guides light. From there, balancing is easy.

Thanks,
Rick
rkoontz@andrew.cmu.edu