I have a question about the fuji concept spacing on a 7'0 mod-fast rainshadow cranbait rod. I used a fuji concept guide spacing chart as a starting point for placing guides, and moved them around while under load to find optimal location as suggested in the FAQ section. I can't find ANY positioning where the line won't touch the blank in at least two locations near the tip. I have nine guides and a tip on this thing and it still touches under load. Funny thing is, I was so frustrated that I did the same test on 6 St Croix factory New Concept rods and they ALL have the same problem! Is this acceptable under the New Concept theory? It would seem to me that I need at least two more guides on this rod to prevent line touching blank; and 11 guides on a 7' rod seems overkill to me.

If the line is touching the blank, then you need more guides. The charts are just an example (I wish all the spacing charts could be torn up and thrown out once and for all - they only create confusion) and should not feel that you need to adhere to them.

Under the New Guide Concept System, you'll need a few more guides than normal. But they should be very small and very light, which offsets the additional number and can actually result in less overall weight than other systems that use fewer, but larger and heavier guides.

The System doesn't lie - just follow the guidelines for proper set-up and you'll have what you need.

...........

Eric,

I know your frustration. However, I have 2 7 foot rods that needed 10 and 11 guides including tip top. I was concerned about weight as well, but realized that I can drop down from size 8 single foot guides to size 6 without sacrificing strength. I actually used Tom Kirkmans modified fuji concept system and it works quite well. All of my rods are lighter, cast better and distribute line better than any factory rod i have. As a matter of fact I have stripped all my factory rods and re did them using Toms method. If you do not have his book get it and then see how everything works. Also are you spiral wrapping your crankbait rod (assuming you are using baitcasting reels)

Gregg

I guess I am in denial. I have had so many problems with backordered merchandise that I was hoping to NOT have to order more guides. That is a topic for another post I probably won't make because it would not last long before deletion. Guess I will have to bite the bullet and order more and delay the completion of the rod by another month! Anyway, two more questions....How do I know what size the extra guides should be? Do I just add more 6's near the tip, or another bridge guide, or a 10 near the butt? Secondly, (and most embarassing) how do I remove the flex cote guide adhesive from the blank, now that I glued it in the best position I could get (but flawed).

As for the spiral wrap, I am laughing out loud. This is my first self educated attempt at building a rod. Looks like I cut off more than I can wrap already...so to speak. Glad I did not tackle that learning curve at the same time.

Eric,

You are having trouble keeping the line off the rod on the tip section. Where you are having the problem is where you need to add the extra guide. When you add extra guides, you would want to add the smallest guide possible to keep weight down.
You might want to try a different supplier, there are many to the left that stock components and can deliver right away. When I order, I try to order a couple of extra guides just incase I need to add one, or the cat happens to eat one.
If you have already completed your wraps and applied your flex coat, you have to decide if you want to remove everything and start over. I haven't done this, but have read many posts on this board about it. You could heat the epoxy with a hair dryer or alcohol lamp and slice the wraps on top of the guide foot. Unwind the thread, this will remove most of the Flex cote. Heat the remaining epoxy again and carefully scrape it off with a fingernail or a plastic tool. If there is a finish on the blank, you may remove the finish as well. Alcohol or Acetone can help remove epoxy residue but Acetone will remove rod finish as well.

Spending more time in the planning stage saves time in the building stage.

One thing that will serve you well in the future, is to go ahead now and just order some extra guides. They needn't be SIC or titanium models, just the frame style you normally use but in the cheapest version you can find. When doing your guide placement, you can use these to determine what you'll need guidewise, for the final set. Then you order exactly what you need.

Keeping a set of, "test guides" in various sizes and numbers on hand usually costs less than $20. If you build many rods, they'll come in handy.

.........

I too am brand new in the rod building hobby and just finished my first 7' casting rod. I got around the guide problem by going with a spiral wrap. It saved me from struggling with the same problem your having. I love the way the spiral wrap feels when your on the water. Plus it out casts every other factory cranking rod I own. I think it would be worth the added effort to tackle the learning curve for the spiral wrap. I ended up with 9 guides 12,10,10,8, and out with 6's. Just avoid changing the path of the line and it works just great.

Thanks guys,

Valuable tips for a beginner. Luckily, I don't have the threads and finish on yet (they're on backorder), just the guide foot adhesive.

Anyway, thanks for taking the time to answer questions from someone who needs a lot of help. Most of this is second nature to many who post here, but is really invaluable to someone like me who has no experience.

Ron,
My experience with three board sponsors I used ranged from acceptable to horrible. The whole experience seemed very odd to me. I also build custom lures, and I must admit that I have never experienced the delays, mistakes and backordering snafu with my lure component suppliers that I have gotten from some of these companies. Since I am new to ordering these components, it may all be the norm. It is, however, very discouraging to someone just starting out.

Eric,

Give it a little time. I have ordered from a number of the suppliers and have not yet had a bad experience. It may just be the luck of the draw, but they have all been very helpful. Contact them by email or phone, find out if the items are in stock and place your order.

Happy to hear it is only the guide adhesive you have to remove.

I also second the idea of changing to a spiral wrap. I built my first one and am waiting for my chance to try it on the water. I am very pleased with it, like the feel etc. Do a search, on spiral wrap there are lots of posts, be sure to search back more than 30 days. You will find all kinds of valuable information.

If you would like more direct help, feel free to email me.

Ron

Ron is right. If you order by phone- you can find out what they have in stock