Need advise on applying a second coat of epoxy. Using prokote. First coat goes on no problem and looks fairly good. Second coat applied ~ 24 hours later makes it look worse in that it goes on uneven and streaky ?perhaps not bonding to the first coat. If applying to much to ensure that it doesn't go on uneven/streaky it then will become wavy (football-like) and difficult to smooth out. Even when I see it and try working the brush to either thin it or apply more doesn't really help. I've finished 3 rods and similar results on all. Epoxy might be a hair on the tacky side when applying the second coat so don't know if its applied to soon. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I am confident though the mixture 3cc/3cc is on. Working temp ~65-68F.
Thanks, Mark

First off, never try to brush the epoxy around to level it - the epoxy will do that on its own. Always wait until the prior application is set reasonably well so that your brush doesn't stick or hang in the first application. A slight tackiness is okay, but at some point if it's still too tack you're going to have problems depending on your application method.

.............

If the finish is too thick to self level, you either are taking too much time - or you have bad finish.

For many finishes, you have about 2-4 minutes to use the finish after mixing for 2 minutes or 120 seconds.

So, if your times goes longer than the time that the finish remains nice and thin- just stop using the finish if it begins to thicken and mix up another batch. A person that is new to rod building may take quite a bit of time to apply finish - even though it is not necessary. But if you do take more than about 2 minutes to completely coat and touch up any rod building finish coats - you need to mix up separate batches of finish to allow you to finish up a particular wrap or guide thread coat before the finish begins to "kick" or get thicker.

When you use a technique that allows you to get all of your finish work done on a rod in 2 minutes or so; you will be able to do the complete job with a single mix. Otherwise - use multiple mixes - only mixed just before you plan to use the finish.

Good luck

I always take more than two minutes to coat a rod and I have never had a problem with the epoxy not leveling. I have coated as many as three rods within 30 min using the same batch of epoxy, and still no problems. This is using Threadmaster which sets up faster than most, Prokote has a much longer potlife, so I do not think potlife is a problem. If you are having problems with leveling you are probably using too much epoxy and it sags as you turn. Better to go lighter than heavier. Learned this many years ago when I used to rotate rods by hand.
Norm

We are all guessing here as to root of your problem, so here are my thoughts and questions.

ProKote has a generous, 30 plus minutes open time. Doubt the epoxy "going off" is the issue unless you work very slowly and exceeded the 30 minute open time for the medium viscosity flavor. The high build version's open time is only 10 to 15 minutes.

Your room temperature is low normal to too low. If you can raise the temperature to 70 degrees the epoxy will cure much quicker and a 24 hour wait between coats should be OK.

How are you mixing the epoxy and for how long? 3 to 4 minutes in an electric epoxy mixer is about right to ensure a thorough mix without bubbles.

It's OK if the first coat of the medium viscosity epoxy does not look as if it covered well; don't apply too heavily.

ProKote levels well; it cannot do otherwise unless you apply it to heavily, which will result in lumps, bumps, footballs, etc.

If you're using disposable brushes, try cutting them back by about 25%. You'll be better able to move (not paint) the epoxy around without applying excess material.

I don't think its the potlife. I do take some time in doing it but the consistency of the epoxy is the same.
The first coat is generally dry to so the brush doesn't stick.

What gets me is the rod looks better with the first coat than after the second. Heck the rods I've done may not even need a second coat because it generally looks good. Do you guys just touch up spots or reapply over the entire first coat.

If the second coat is applies thin it looks like it is just streaking and not getting on there like that first coat. That's where I'm doing something wrong.
Thanks, Trying to learn.

Mixing 3-5 minutes by hand. Applied within 20-minutes (I believe). And yep the footballs I get with the second coat do come into play when I've applied it heavy.

Thanks for the great advice.

I agree with those who doubt that time is the issue. I think it may be simply applying too much on that second coat. I almost never get the first coat to cover well enough. There is always a nubbin or two or some other little thing, but the second coat always looks great.

I never have a problem with adhesion or separation or anything like that no matter how long between coats (but I never put the second coat on when there is anything more than a slight tack to the first coat. I use Flex Coat Lite, which has less pot life than Pro Kote, and I get the whole rod done well within the time. Footballs mean too much finish, IMHO.

Mark

Only time I've seen what I would characterize as a streak when applying a second coat of ProKote is when I get in a hurry, tense up, and instead of allowing the epoxy to flow from brush to wrap I apply brush pressure to the wrap thereby paint epoxy instead of flowing and moving epoxy. All sorts of bad things can happen if finish epoxy is painted including lumps, bubbles. footballs, etc.

Another thought is to warm the resin in the microwave for 8 to 10 seconds immediately before measuring and mixing. Cold epoxy usually mixes OK but does not flow so nicely.

Try using the spatula method at least once for applying the epoxy. I've used both on the same rod, spatula first then brush touch up with leftover epoxy after doing the decals.

How long has the first coat been dry? If for an extended amount of time gently scuff the surface of the wrap with scotchbtite, that will allow the second coat to adhere to the first coat, it maybe that the first coat is pushing the epoxy and not adhering to it. Without seeing its hard to really say though.

DG

May I suggest trying several brands of epoxy to see which is the most user friendly in your particular environment? Each behaves a little different depending on temperature and how it's formulated. Instead of struggling with one that's hard for you to get good results with, find one that gives great results with minimal effort.
In my cool basement shop, I found Threadmaster is clearly the easiest to work with. It gives me a good amount of working time, but setups up quickly enough to minimize problems with sagging, dust settling in, etc. The consistency allows me to apply a generous enough coat that will flow out nicely but not sag. Best of all, bubbles release by simply blowing on them with a small straw - I NEVER have a need to apply heat. I apply right out of the stir cup even with bubbles in it because bubbles release so easy after it's applied. Of course you might find a different brand works best for you but it's worth experimenting.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI

Dan, addressing your question. First coat placed 22-24 hours prior in all 3 (only) cases.

And that's not a bad idea about trying another brand but I've got a but ton of the prokote. But if I don't make progress with the next build maybe I will switch it up. Probably just a matter of practice and taking the advice I've gotten already. THanks again for all your suggestions.

Good luck to you, for sure.

As a suggestion...if you decide to try another epoxy manufacturer, order the smallest quantity. If it works for you, great...they make more. If you don't like it, the investment is small.

Epoxies are different. There are builders who could use any & all of them without a hitch, and then some just need to find one that fits their style and/or environment. If your epoxy work isn't up to par, be sure it's not an issue that you are creating first. Then if all else fails, try another brand.

Hang in there.

Well, just applied a second coat on another rod. This time it looks Good to great. Can't say for certain what I did different . But I felt more confident and not rushed doing it. Perhaps what I did the first couple times is just applying it where it looked like it needed it. This time I took my time and applied over the entire first coat. And it looks good so who knows. Learning curve. Thanks guys!!!!

I would think that it's always best to re-coat the entire wrap...not just touch up streaks. That's probably where your issue stemmed from