I've been fishing southern Florida for over 20 years and have just started looking into rod building. I've had guides repaired and replaced, but I'd like to do it myself; seems like a great hobby!

I've got a few old rods with busted guides to practice on (plus I've always been good at arts and crafts), but I'd really like to build myself a custom surf rod.

One of my favorite methods is hiking several miles down a beach casting artificials. When summertime hits, there will be 50"+ snook cruising the beach. So what I want is a 7'6" to 8' pole, 25-40 lb, fast action. I've been looking at blank suppliers and the choices available are rather intimidating. It seems like some companies make a better type of rod than others (for particular applications, anyway). My question is, based on what I'm trying to do, does anyone have any insight as to a good blank to use?

Thanks.

I think a surf plugging blank or the heaviest 8' popping blank you can find would work well. Big snook are strong so just make sure you get something with enough power to fight them from the shore. Can't move around and go with them like you an in a boat so you need a little more power IMO.

Andrew

You're in an ideal position. While you're shopping for a blank, dig out the rods with busted guides, cut off the failed guides, wrap on new, and finish the windings. That will help get you well along the learning curves for removing guides without damaging the blank, making wraps, and dealing with wrap finish epoxy without the pressure of building on a new blank.

James,
Thanks for the reply. I agree with needing the power. I've been on a few snook and big jack where I've steered them parallel to the beach and had to jog along before I could surf them in on a wave and get a landing. Do you know if any brands make higher quality popping blanks than others?

Exactly. Getting a surf rod together that really suits my needs and conditions is a longer term project.

Dollar for dollar, I think any name brand blank is going to be about the same. I don't see many bad quality blanks selling for above $50. You don't have to spend a fortune IMO.

Lets take this as a two part thing. First about getting into rod building and second about the rod you wish to build. It will go in circles so bear with me.

So for sure you want to practice on your old rods. But do yourself a favor and don't just put the same type/size of guides in the original place. Instead read up on the various guide placement methods and static testing. Pick a guide layout concept and give it a try. Your goal should be to prove to yourself that guide layout and placement done right will beat a factory rod. Proving to yourself that you can beat the performance of a factory rod will inspire you to make the plunge. Going by my experience it won't take a lot of effort. I might suggest the new guide concept (from the library) and fuji alconites as a start (assuming a spinning rod). Go with high frame single foot guides for the reduction guides and single foot "fly rod" guides for the running guides. Be prepared to learn that the way rods look is about sales and not performance. Don't think you need underwraps and double foot guides for strength (you only need them for abuse). I hope you can be open to that.

You mention that you want to cast artficals from the bank but don't mention the type and weight. IMHO that is more of factor than line strength. Little point in getting a "25-40#" rated rod if it won't cast your desired lure. The trend these days is towards a slower action blank for treble hook lures and faster actions for single hook offerings (FWIW). For your needs I'd be inclined to go a little longer and use a moderate fast surf rod blank. Lamiglas is a top choice here but won't be cheap. Mudhole does have some on sale. My advice might change a lot once I know the lure/weight and actual weight of average fish. Still I don't think any popping blank will be strong enough for your needs unless your biggest snook is no more than 20-30 pounds.

Everybody has their own reasons why it made sense for them to get into building rods. No doubt some do it just to make money. Others are looking to save money on personal rods. Some are looking to build something they can't find in a "off the shelf" offering. I'll tell you right now you aren't going to save money so forget that. What you can do is get something on close out/sale/etc. that you couldn't normally afford. IMHO the neatest thing you can learn is how to judge when a given blank might be right for you. There are a lot of blanks marketed for fish we will never see down here. There are others sold as freshwater blanks, or fly rods. Pay no attention to such info. It takes time but soon you "could learn" to look at tip diameter, butt diameter, weight of the blank, etc. and make an educated guess. For example I think "hot shot" blanks intended for steelhead fishing are a great choice for our waters, especially when casting live unweighted offerings to moderate sized fish.....be it big shrimp to snook or pilchards to dolphin.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thanks for the reply.

I'm typing this as I run out the door for work so bear with me.

The last few weeks I've been using 5.5" DOA CAL (0.5 oz) on a 5/0 weighted grip weedless (.75 oz). But at the same time, I'll switch to spoons or even free-line live finger mullet. The pole I've been using is a 7' Okuma Reflections, 12-25 lb. It's been alright, but I want better. Saving money went right out the window after the first 15 minutes of reading about rod building. But I've got rods that need new guides and if anyone gives me flack about it, I'm just learning how to repair my toys.

Fish wise, it's usually snook in the 30" range. I've hit on a few unexpected big guys but they chew through my leader in 5 minutes. Although last week I walked off the beach to an estuary behind it and found a 24" redfish.

You are on the gulf coast side right? Seems a 30" east coast snook weighs more than a 30" gulf snook:) Does 9-12 pound range sound about right for your average nice fish? And you are catching from the beach, in salt water, with no structure/mangroves/etc. to worry about? If so you have loads of choices...too many in fact!

I'd be thinking about how far I need to cast coupled with ability to set the hook at maximum casting distance. A longer rod casts farther and picks up more slack line on the hookset. A stiffer tip helps on setting the hook but can fling live baits off the hook during the cast. These are balancing acts.

Seems you mostly fish single hook lures or tough live baits. Much harder to rip a finger mullett off the hook during a cast than a pilchard. Given that, a spin/jig type blank makes a good all purpose choice. I think the St. Croix inshore blanks are very nice and you can get them from rodgeeks at a lower price. Plus you can look at them in a local store and see what you think. I'd move up to the 7'6" length.

But you do have lots of possible choices....from mag bass to salmon/steelhead to live bait, popping, surf, and spin/jig. Sorry as I know that doesn't help at all.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.