This will be my first build and I have a lot invested with this block of stabalized wood and don't want to go wrong here. What's a good glue to bring these 2 together on the mandrel? I have wood glue and 30 ton epoxy. I was planning on using the epoxy, is there a better adhesive for cork and wood than wood glue and should I ever use epoxy to hold cork together? Now that I think about it I feel like the epoxy might be a little much when gluing cork on a mandrel

Thank you in advance Pat

Pat,
Wax your mandrel, than butter up all you cork and wood pieces. Than try to scrape off as much as you can, don't wipe in off like with a rag. slide all your pieces together, clamp, your done. Wood glue may work, but I know epoxy does and doesn't come apart while turning, drilling, etc.

All my cork rings are glued with Titebond III, when I have Eva or wood insets, I have a separate batch of rod bond to adhere those with (on both sides) Never had a failure with that procedure. Although all rod bond would still work very sufficiently if you do not want to use 2 products.

Ron Weber

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Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:45PM by John E Powell.

Ok, thanks everyone. As long as it's ok to use epoxy I'll probably go that route. I was afraid it would be too strong and never come off the mandrel!

If you use like rod bond You Don't Need a lot I glue rings on a threaded shaft and put three drops on a ring then drop the next one onto it and turn several times If you load it on it will probably glue the rings to the mandrel That is why wax is put on

Bill - willierods.com

Patrick,
That is not your biggest challenge. By the way - I use GFlex by Gougeon Bros

That will be turning down the grip with the VERY HARD stabilized wood adjacent to the VERY SOFT cork. I usually use a barrier of medium hardness like exotic cork rings as a buffer.
Also - I use "custom made shaping "tools" as backing for my sandpaper. Go slow at the interface - engaging both the wood and cork.
Your objective is to feel no difference in height between the two. You should not discern ANY difference in height when running your finger longitudinally over the wood/cork interface.

Email me if you want more tips.
herb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/30/2016 03:18PM by Herb Ladenheim.

Thank you Herb....I was thinking sanding would get interesting once I begin. I'll probably shoot u an email before I start the grip. I've got a plan in my head but so far nothing is coming together. I'm new to a lathe and can't quite seem to order the right size chucks for what I need. Nothing's coming easy with that thing.

When I do something like this, I turn the wood to its finish dimensions and then glue on the cork and turn the cork down to the wood.

Scott
The problem with that is that one tends to get a "flat" shape instead of a graceful curve or flare.
Even the slightest curve adds character to a grip.
Herb

That being said - I also cut wood rings down to minimum size for my use. But I do leave a little bulk to allow ultimate shape I want.
Scott - sorry - I thought you pre-shaped wood to exact dimensions before incorporating into grip. We probably do it the same way.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2016 07:56AM by Herb Ladenheim.

on the threaded rod, use 2 layers of masking tape coated with lots of wax [ spiral wrap ] when twist the rings on go with the tape, so
it will stay in place , an use Tiebond III it sands better than epoxy, epoxy has hard lines in the cork an it is tuff to smooth out for me
tiebond III clean up with water, it is water proof when dry, this is only the rings, use rodbond for the rings to blank glue

William Sidney
AK

Bill,
X10 on your glue comments. I do the same.

Be safe

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:43PM by John E Powell.

Just a thought. One of the things I do when using hard wood with cork, is to turn and finish the wood first, then do the glue up. Now all I need to do is and the cork down to the hard wood and I'm done.