Hi All,

I am building on a white blank and I plan to use a few decals for the first time on a white blank. I am also using red for my wraps. It's a hockey theme build for a friend of mine. I have built on white blanks before and l am not very happy with how they look now because of the yellowing epoxy. I know yellowing is the nature of the beast with epoxy.

Any suggestions to help prolong the inevitable yellowing would be greatly appreciated. What is everyone out there using?

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

Trondak U-40 Perma-Gloss never yellows.

Hi Spencer

I understand. However talking to Tom earlier he mentioned that it takes several coats to build up the wraps and they end up looking like an eggshell effect. Not smooth like epoxy. I was just trying to see if anyone has any other technique that has had better success. I have Flexcoat UV I can use but I was recommended Aftcote by a builder in Florida. I have no experience with it.

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

Chris - This is a "hockey themed build" so think of the slight eggshell effect from Perma-Gloss as being "Frost Textured."

That's actually funny Dan.

But in all seriousness I personally like the look of white blanks and plan to build out 4-5 rods for my personal use at the cottage this year. Different rods for different species. So if I can find a technique that is better I would appreciate it. I don't sell rods I just build them for friends and family. I have built a few white ones and the edges of the wraps are annoying, along with the signature section!

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

Chris

You wrote that your prior builds using white blanks had yellowed. How long ago did those builds occur? Just curious.

My understanding is epoxy yellows. Some yellow faster than others, depending upon the amount of UV exposure, but eventually they do all yellow.

Chris,

When I use Permagloss exclusively on my thread wraps I use 8 coats of Permagloss allowing an hour of so of drying time between the first 4 coats and then let it dry over night and apply the second set of coats the next day. With that many coats of Permagloss the wraps, IMHO, come out beautifully. I really like Permagloss, especially since it does not yellow is super light and tuff as nails! Give it a try and I don't think you will be disappointed.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

If I remember right, some have been applying 2 coats right out of the bottle, then letting he next coat set for an hour or a bit more to thicken before use. think it was mentioned in one of the M&M micro guide posts.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:45PM by John E Powell.

Hi John

Thanks for the info. But that post over 4 years old now. Hasn't there been any advancement in epoxy technology since then? Maybe not?

Spencer I would be interested to read the thread you are refer get to.

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:45PM by John E Powell.

Are you concerned specifically about yellowing where the decal is on the blank? Would you consider making an underwrap (with a layer of finish) and apply the decal to that?

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI

All epoxies will yellow! Some take a little longer than others, but none stay clear, it is the hardener that causes the yellowing as it is UV sensitive.

Perma Gloss is today's best alternative for use on a white blank.....more coats, but no yellow !!

It is not likely that epoxy manufacturers are going to be working on a non-yellowing epoxy for a market as small as rod building white rods.

Hi Phil

Thanks for the reply. However Epoxy manufacturers would probably love to have non yellowing epoxy for floor coating application. But your right about our small rod industry!

I will try the PG. I actually have a bottle that has thickened a bit. I will try a couple test wraps tonight.

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

Chris another idea you might want to try is since your wraps are red use epoxy on them and keep your over run to a bare minimum. Then on the decals use the PG where you shouldn't need many coats to cover the thin decal.

Tom

Chris another idea you might want to try is since your wraps are red use epoxy on them and keep your over run to a bare minimum. Then on the decals use the PG where you shouldn't need many coats to cover the thin decal.

Tom

Chris another idea you might want to try is since your wraps are red use epoxy on them and keep your over run to a bare minimum. Then on the decals use the PG where you shouldn't need many coats to cover the thin decal.

Tom

Sorry for the double post

Hi Tom

That was on of the things I was going to try! I was going to try one coat of thin epoxy on a guide wrap only to the edge and not hit the blank. Then one or two coats of PG.

Does epoxy have to be sanded before PG is applied. If so then it would be to much work.

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

Why not just use a light finish and be done Or thin the high build if that is what you use
Careful of Permagloss on top of Epoxy PG is hot and you may have a reaction

Bill - willierods.com