Hi all,

This forum and the search tool has been a tremendous resource. When I decided to build with a Fuji SK2 split reel seat for the first time, I did my homework. I didn't post a question about it but the archives had very useful comments about the graphite arbors supplied by Fuji. This arbor in the rear trigger portion of the baitcasting seat will not leave enough room for a rear grip tenon on one end, and the "tenon" on the WCS winding check on the other end.

The solution was to sand down the end of the arbor by about a 1/16 - 1/8 inch or so (not measured). This definitely increased the gaps on the ends to allow the other pieces to fit. If it weren't for this board I would never have thought of this potential problem and I would really be stuck right now. So thanks for that! By the way, the arbor sands down extremely easily so be aware of that.

The reason I am posting now is to bring up another issue so that other rookies like myself don't make the same mistake I made.

I epoxied the arbors into both sections of the reel seat, with the intention to ream the whole assemblies out to fit. There is no way I can see reaming out the arbors by themselves, the blank is too thick in the targeted area and these very brittle arbors will need to be reamed out to a thin layer that probably will break apart if not epoxied to the reel seat first..

After epoxying the arbor to the trigger half, I made sure the winding check and rear grip fit and then let it set. I noticed that some epoxy was forced out on the rear grip end of the arbor, and I thought "Great, that means I had enough epoxy!" I didn't think any more of it and that was the mistake. The next morning - the epoxy was still barely tacky and mostly hardened and that's when it dawned on me that the hardened excess epoxy would prevent the rear grip tenon from fitting, and that turned out to be the case. Luckily the epoxy still had some softness and I dug out the excess (along with some arbor material) with a small screwdriver until I could get the grip to fit again.

This was ultimately a failure of common sense, but I could fix it. In retrospect I should have cleaned that excess out of there with alcohol. I am only posting this on here so other rookies like myself know to watch out for something like this!

Thanks again for the forum!
Jason

Glad our information helped a novice builder. Here's another SK2 tip that can save a headache down the road.

With nothing between the front and rear of the seat the pressure exerted when you tighten a reel can be tremendous and in some cases can push the two pieces apart. It's a good idea to make sure you scuff up the area where epoxy will make contact and pay close attention to having a full seal. In addition, I often build up a thread ramp on the front end of the seat, especially if it will be hidden by a thread cover. Usually the back end is supported by the handle although I will also build up a thread ramp behind the handle as well (rather than a winding check). These two "insurance" tips consistently give me SK2 installations that don't move - ever.

Jason,
Good advice.
By the way, whenever one builds a rod, it is a good idea to "dry fit" all of the parts first before gluing any thing together. The dry fit, will reveal any potential issues, before glue gets in the way to make changes difficult or impossible.

By the way, I routinely ream the foam arbors by themselves. I use a round file chucked into a variable speed drill running backwards. You want the screw angle of the file to be turning against the arbor, so that the file does not want to screw itself into the arbor. If the file does screw itself into the arbor - the arbor will almost always break apart due to the sudden pressure.

But after reading comments about gluing the arbor into the grip first and then reaming, I will admit that this is a much easier process to complete quickly and well.

Good luck

Check out the Pac Bay arbors They are black and don't show much Plus they are flat no ridges better holding power Also prep the inside of the seat where the arbor goes I would glue them in and then hand ream More control They ream easy
Plus you say they were thin If so thin you may have been able to prep the blank and use the correct thread size or thin twine as the arbor
Also do you really need a tendon

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/21/2016 12:54PM by bill boettcher.

The tenon is on the special winding check for the SK2. Makes alignment a no-brianer and centers the blank perfectly.

Thanks everyone!

Tenons: I am using a CRB aluminum trim ring between the rear grip and the trigger section of the seat. The trim ring has a tenon that fits into the seat. And as Jim Ising pointed out, the winding checks have a tenon that mates with the seat as well.

Dry run: I always do dry runs! The problem here was the epoxy built up in the "wet" run, and partially filled the gap I needed for the trim ring tenon to insert into the seat.

Thread ramp: I already intend to have approx 1/8" of trim threadwork on each end of the inside portions of the split reel seat (the exposed area). I will have the same down on the other end of the rear grip in the split grip area. And finally I will have a cone and a more extended crosswrap in the foregrip area. When these are all sealed down with finish, is that the ramp you are talking about?

Thread arbor: The seat has fins (don't know what else to call them) inside that decrease the ID and the arbors from Fuji have raised ridge areas that increase the OD just in those sections. After reaming, the arbor material I can still see inside the seat is pretty thin but I assume the raised areas are thicker. I am not sure if a thread wrap would have gotten the job done with this blank OD. I thought about tape arbors but I was concerned that the small areas covered by this seat would mean a tape arbor would not provide enough holding power.

Scuffing: I have seen conflicting comments on whether it is worth scuffing the blank. I am using a CB Blend MHX blank, I am not sure if scuffing would score graphite fibers in the blank or not. I think the seat will be held down solid on the axis of the blank by all the surrounding components but I am a bit concerned that the seat may break free and rotate, based on comments I have been seeing around the board. I may lightly run a 3M pad over these areas!

Thanks,
Jason