I have always been frustrated by signing a finished rod. I have tried the extra fine paint pens, speed ball pens, and about everything in between, but have yet to find a way to sign my rods so it looks half way decent. Speed ball present a problem getting them to even write on a blank. I sand the blank first, but then either I get a blob or nothing at all. The extra fine paint pens are two wide to do a nice job.

I think my problem is finding the right combination of pen and ink/paint to make things work. I know there has to be a way, because I have seen many You Tube videos with people signing rods, but no matter how hard I try, I can not get things to work right.

So, does anyone have the secret, besides creating or buying decals that is.

Thanks.

John

John,
I use the speed ball nibs, pens, and acrylic ink. I generally use the #512 nib and it generally works very well. I just make sure that the blank is good and clean before writing on it.

[www.google.com]



If you use the nib and get a name or a few letters on the rod and the nib stops writing, you are having the nib plug up with ink. There is a very fine line that runs down the nib to hold and meter the ink to the surface. If there is any obstruction at all in the groove; the ink will not flow and the pen will stop writing.

Use the correct solvent to remove the dried up ink from the groove in the nib and I expect that your issues will go away.

Take care

Roger,

Ok, what brand acrylic ink to you use. I have tried several and so far nothing seems to flow well. Just a blob or no flow. Maybe I'm not using them correctly? I will try my local hobby store tomorrow and talk to them. Computers I can do pretty well, some of this art stuff is a little confusing to me.

Thanks.

John



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/18/2016 10:56PM by John Wright1945.

Like Roger, I use a Speed Ball Pen with a fine nib. I use Opaque Acrylic Speed Ball ink. I usually get my supplies from Jann's Netcraft. As Roger pointed out you need to keep the nib clean. I use a piece of gray 3M pad to scuff the blank. This pad is quite fine grit and just takes the gloss off of the blank.

After writing on the blank. I allow the ink to dry and then spray the inscription with Krylon Art Fixative which seals the surface. I then apply CP and finish. Good luck.

Mike Blomme

You don't need the CP over the Fixative

Bill - willierods.com

Many thanks.

I'm off to the art store to see what I can find today.

John

With the speedball acrylic ink, you need nothing over the ink before applying the finish. The ink holds up just fine to an application of finish.

I pick up the supplies at either Dick Blick art supplies, or Michaels craft store. Both stores have the pens and ink in stock.

Be sure that you pick up the speed ball cleaner / thinner at the same time. Over time the ink can get a bit thick. If that happens you need to add a few drops of thinner to thin the ink again.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2016 12:20PM by roger wilson.

John,
Also pick up a half dozen of the correct nib. It does seem that over time, the ink can build up in the nib so that you can no longer get the nib clean. If that happens, pitch the nib and insert a new one into the pen.

I have tried virtually all of the nibs and I had 0 luck with the bronze colored nibs that had the sharp point. On the other hand, good luck with the 512 silver nib - that had a smooth tip on the end of the nib.
It seemed that the bronze nibs would tend to scratch the rod as one tried to write on the blank.

Be safe

Hi Bill,
I know, but I am a very paranoid guy. The CP is overkill, but it lessens my fear of making an error. You should see my five solvent brush cleaning method. Heck, when you are retired from your day job, you have plenty of time to indulge you worries.
Have a good day.

Mike Blomme

The fixative is IMHO clearer then CP I have had CP go cloudy But spraying the fixative it is very clear and two coats let to dry and then finish I never had a problem Enjoy your worries LOL
I do use it only on decals Thread wraps I use CP

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2016 04:27PM by bill boettcher.

Michael,
I go the other method for brush cleaning. I use the brushes once and throw them away so I never clean a brush.

I go to Wallmart to the children's toy section and find the coloring and painting sections.

I buy a card of brushes. I get 75 brushes for about $4 or so. Every brush costs me about a nickel.

So, I use a fresh brush for every batch of rod finish that I mix. These simple inexpensive kiddie brushes are very equivalent to the "Flex coat" brushes that are sold at your neighborhood rod building shop for much more. These brushes work very well for me to apply finish.

Try Dr Ph. Martin's calligraphy ink. Its made for nib pens. Drys quickly, is permanent, will not smear and comes in variety of colors. Can thin it, if needed, with alcokol. Been using the same nibs (fine and extra fine) for the past five years with no problems and I clean them with goof off. Fill the nib with ink start the flow by writing on a piece of paper, once you get a good line move to the blank. Since it will not smear no need to coat with anything except epoxy finish.
Norm