Hi,

I'm new to rod building and I recently purchased a ready to wrap fly rod kit from Swift Fly Fishing. In the build manual that came with it one of the supplies needed is denatured alcohol, they state to get the kind that isn't dyed. I assume this is because it is used as a thinner for the first coat on my wraps. So my questions are, am I right with my assumption and if so, where can I get clear denatured alcohol?

Thanks, Rob

You don't need to thin your thread wrap finish. The alcohol, which is available at most any hardware or home supply store, is simply for cleaning purposes.

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Thanks Tom!

I made that assumption because they stated in the manual to thin the epoxy for the first coat. This was for making transparent wraps, which is what I would like to do. So do I still need to thin the epoxy?

Rob

Check out these past posts They should help with the transparent wraps

[rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

Acetone would be the product best for thinning, if you truly want to do that. But keep in mind that epoxy isn't the best finish for transparent type wraps.

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Yes, I was reading some of those post and saw that acetone would be better to use. I'm just going by what the build manual says since this is my first build. Also with this kit they send you epoxy so that is all I have currently.

Robert,
As others have said - don't thin the epoxy. There is simply no need to thin the epoxy.

If you do find that the finish is not flowing as you would like, just a touch of gentle heat will warm the finish on the rod and it will flow nicely.

But, in any event - do NOT use alcohol to thin epoxy. Alcohol is not the correct solvent for thinning epoxies.

Acetone is a possible solvent, but is till not the best solvent to thin epoxy finish.

The best solvent to use for thinning an epoxy finish is Xylene.

But, be safe --- both Acetone and Xylene are very quick evaporating solvents, and the fumes are dangerous to breathe. So, if you use either of these very volatile solvents, do so in a well vented area with a fan blowing air out the window and so that the fumes do not come to your nose for breathing.

Be safe

p.s.
I have built hundreds of rods, and I have never ever used any thinner in any of my epoxy finishes. The finish is perfect and crystal clear. So, no a thinner is NOT needed to finish a rod.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/17/2016 03:38PM by roger wilson.

I don't believe we are talking about the clarity of the finish here, he is merely stating that the use of the finish thinned with either DNA or Acetone is the way to have the thread wraps go transparent, whereas the guide foot is clearly visable under the wrap. This is a common factor in use by a lot of glass and bamboo builders.

Ron Weber

Yes Ron, that is exactly what I'm shooting for.

What type and color of thread did your kit come with? As long as it's not a ncp type thread it will be somewhat transparent with regular epoxy. It won't vanish but if it's a lighter color you'll be able to clearly see the guide foot underneath.

I haven't received the kit yet. I downloaded the manual to read through it before starting. Just wanted to make sure that I had everything that I needed.

Robert,
In all my years of buying denatured alcohol I've never seen anything, but clear alcohol. Maybe the stuff you get as stove fuel may be tinted, but the stuff from your ACE Hardware, Lowe's, etc. is always clear. It's found in the paint department, acetone, xylene, etc. is also there.

And also there is Lacquer thinners Medium temperature which I have used with good results to thin out finish High build
Or use a light finish

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/17/2016 04:28PM by bill boettcher.

Thanks for the help!

brian rossi Wrote:
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> What type and color of thread did your kit come
> with? As long as it's not a ncp type thread it
> will be somewhat transparent with regular epoxy.
> It won't vanish but if it's a lighter color you'll
> be able to clearly see the guide foot underneath.

The kit should come with 000 silk, std is black and 212

Ron Weber

A thinned varnish over white silk is the only way to get what you're after.

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I don't often differ with Tom, but there is another way to get glass clear silk wraps. I thin the epoxy to slightly thicker then water, by using acetone for my first coat. After cured, follow with a second coat of unthinned epoxy. I have done a number of these on both bamboo and graphite, and have had people tell me there is no thread on the wraps..............wrong!

You can do that, but it will affect the characteristics of the epoxy, at least according to the epoxy formulators. That much acetone or any solvent in epoxy, will affect the cured product. If you're not having trouble with it, great. But keep it in the back of your mind should something arise down the road.

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Thanks for the help! I can't wait for it to get here so I can try it out.

Thanks for the help! I can't wait for it to get here so I can try it out.