I'm still failing a bit to get confident as i'm finding so many different layouts regarding KR concept. And in this continuous evolution i've lost track of what's the newest and most accepted one.
I appreciate you have probably discussed these same topics until sickness and beyond.

Some examples of my confusion to follow, the first being the one i've adopted to my previous and only rod i've built, and probably a safe bet to my next one. I wouldn't probably notice a difference with the other configurations to be honest, but i have that painful feeling inside where i need to make it as perfect as i can.

- KL20H, KL10H, KL5.5M - KB (ok, no problem until here!)
- KL20H, KL10H, KL5.5L - KT (as seen on rodhouse)
- KL20H, KL10H, KL6L, KL5.5L, KB (more parabolic rods)
- KL20H, KL10H, KL6M, KL5.5L, KT (i've been referred to this as the new version of kr) - in this, is the KL5.5L to be considered the choke?

Then for example, at pag 8 of [anglersresource.net] which I sort of failed to understand (and cannot find "For complete instructionson building the perfect KR CONCEPT rod using Fuji’s new”Group” Concept,download ”Building KR CONCEPT Rods Using Fuji Groups” at our website". Also, I find it confusing sometimes when i find mentions to the KR Gps, or in other instancing it gets mentioned the NCG like in this page (STEP 2: Place the stripper according to the New Guide Concept using the table edge method or GPS with the size reel you plan to use (i.e. a 3000 or 1500 Series reel)

I am always astonished by guide plans and concepts which do not specify the type of line for which these guides are intended: braid or monofilament, dacron, nylon or polyethylene, and what pound test/diameter/flexibility. Guides and line must function together, not separately, to achieve the best results for the end user - just like politicians.

In this case I took into account 15/20lb braid.
I take that the softness will also affect the final position of my reduction train, but that will be later on..

GPS for KR Concept ( [anglersresource.net] ) takes into account line type and lb test as well as many other critical factors. All of the above layouts can (or might) be correct for DIFFERENT BLANKS. The problem is that the world is full of very knowledgeable rod builders who can't resist the temptation to put their own "spin" on the concept. If you are new to the game or the "concept" use the resources available on our site THAT COME DIRECTLY FROM THE PEOPLE WHO DEVELOPED THE CONCEPT AND THE GUIDES. Build rods until you are comfortable with the "THINKING" and ideas that are behind the concept. Then...modify it all you want. This will give you the base you need to make modifications from the right perspective. And whatever you do, don't read about 5 different building ideas and then try to blend them together into your idea of a "Super Rod". Leave that to the guys who are working on rod number 4,289.

Theory of the KR Concept: [anglersresource.net]
Static Load Tutorial: [anglersresource.net]

As always, I stand ready to help anyone wanting to master the concept. It's very simple.

Thanks Jim. I've devoured all the articles on anglersresources and many of your forum posts in here.

My first rod came out quite decently, can't complain at all as i was very pleased with the resultsI I wouldn't have been able to do anything without anglersresource.


I want to step up my game every time, though, especially because I don't want to mess up the Sc V blank that's going next on my wrapper.

I asked myself these questions not after looking at random websites, but after getting straight to the latest Fuji catalogues in japanese for example, and noticed that it's not all KL20H, KL10H, KL5.5M - KB
I take that different configurations work better for different rods, what works on 5S70LF-G then? :)
I just want to understand the science behind really.

Also this one here, on anglersresource:


cheers for all your articles and knowledge.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2016 02:46AM by Fabio Liguori.

Thanks Fabio. There are many exceptionally smart people doing this and they all have legitimate tweaks and styles they are more than willing to share. Unfortunately to a new guy it all appears to be "gospel" and you then expect to build the best rod you ever fished (otherwise why bother, right?). What all new builders need to realize is that all those tweaks and nuances come from an extensive knowledge of certain BASIC information that they have slogged their way through to reach the top. This is not Candyland, you can't draw a card that lets you skip ahead. Most likely, for a while, your card will read "go back two spaces". No short cuts.

Cheers for your help Jim, that cleared all my doubts!

Cheers for your help Jim, that cleared all my doubts!