I'm looking to build my first graphite handle for a spinning rod. I'm not looking to not break the bank on this project, but am drawn to the increased sensitivity and light weight of these grips. That said, anyone have any experience building them and have any insight on the do's / dont's and best parts to use?

I've looked at the Tenessee style tubes as maybe a first attempt, and they look pretty much like you're mounting arbors and some trim to clean up the look of the tube. Am I missing anything here? Also what size tube should I got with if I'll be using a size 16 reel seat?

As for tapered / custom made or shaped I'm struggling to find anything online here or elsewhere on the internet. They definitely look sweet, so I'd love to try and tackle one. Any insight into these or resources would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

If you're talking about the foam-core, carbon-skinned type grips, these were introduced to the custom rod building craft in the Volume 10 #6 issue of RodMaker Magazine about 8 or 9 years ago in two very comprehensive articles. Way too much information to list here.

In the meantime, Riley Rods sells finished grips, as does Mudhole. There may be others as well. Pacific Bay has recently introduced pre-formed foam cores which you can paint, flock or carbon skin.

...................

Andrew,

Give Mike Pedersen a call at Riley Rods. He sells all of the components required to make a carbon fiber grip and he also sells the nicest carbon fiber grips available, IMHO! Check out his stuff on the link displayed on the left , he's a sponsor.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

A Tennessee tube style grip has two arbors which are also the end caps, usually eva or cork, longer ones may have interior arbors. They usually don't include a reel seat, if you want to use a reel seat, I'd use a bigger one than a 16 mm version, they're kind of uncomfortable to hold all day. production rods like Loomis, St. Croix, etc. use at least a 17 mm reel seat, even on their ultralights. I have smaller hands and still use at least an 18 mm seat, for the ergonomic value. True Tennessee grips use tape or thread wraps to hold the reel to the cork or tube grip.

Andrew are you sure you want a full carbon grip? I tried one and recently cut it off and put cork with some burnt rings back on, Because it was either cold or hot from the sun, And just plain to hard on my hand all day. With some of these new spinning reel seats with the blank cut out windows I get all the sensitivity I could want. If you do try one I would order one made up from Riley rods Here's one of the new seats Tight Lines Jaa [alpsforecast.com]

Tom - thanks for pointing me in the direction of those issues. Exactly what I was looking for! Also some useful info on Riley's site although can't seem to view most of the content. Not sure what's going on there?

You mentioned carbon skinning? What's involved with that process??

Don- thanks for the Intel on Mike at Riley Rods. Will be giving him a call once I figure out what I'm looking for.

Spencer - I'm used to size 16 or 17 from some of my favorite casting rods. I'd better double the reel seat sizing on my St. Croix's. Really appreciate the heads up!

Jay - thanks for sharing the exposed reel seat. That may be a way to go, and will definitely be getting a try. Unfortunately I've had the itch on the carbon grip for a while (so not as easy to give up on it), but maybe I'll make it on a top water (so both time of day and hours used are limited) and/or limit my investment in one until I can fish it enough to experience the things you mentioned.